Builds 94 Toyota Pickup on 94 80 series chassis (1 Viewer)

[HiCruiser LandLux]

I originally went with that mount and I worried that any twist from the engine would load the case and cause the gaskets to leak at minimum or possibly crack the case. That is going to hold your T-case a lot more solid than your engine mounts (If they're stock) The original T-case mounts on the bottom will at least allow the entire case to flex over.

I have stock OEM 3.4 mounts and I had a lot of movement. My shifters moved a lot so I attached a cable from a shock hoop to the engine lifting bracket toward the top of the driver side head to limit that movement. It worked great. I got the idea from an old Pirate post. They were using a piece of chain though.

There's a few posts out there about that FROR mount where somebody says it breaks cases but no proof and plenty of people running them that say no problems. It caused ME concern so I went back to the bomb proof mounts in the stock location. Since you don't have that option, maybe think about something to limit your engine torquing over. Or maybe I'm worrying about a non issue. It saved me from tearing out engine mounts at least.

The case looks awesome! I love nice clean parts. This is going to be Baddass.

Thats really really good input, I thought about that while deciding on my motor mounts. Im hoping the overall stiffness of the powertrain mounting wont be too hard on the powertrain and vibrate my teeth out, while also not being sloppy. I've installed the "engine anti torque" cables on race motors at my work, judging from my 1UZ Celica I'm not too worried. It originally had 22re factory rubber mounts before I went to a "bombproof mount" from Xcessive manufacturing. Using their stiffest polyurethane bushings it isn't rattly and it doesn't move around at all.

 

[HiCruiser LandLux]

Been woking on a few of the smaller things on the side, this R150f came out of a 4Runner that burnt down, due to that the shifter bushings were a bit... melted. Was gonna just buy a short shifter or a used one when I realized people want 200 DOLLARS FOR USED ONES. The Marlin short shifter is nearly $400 and out of stock so thats out as well. Pulled mine apart, cleaned out burnt bushings and sandblasted.

Bought bith bushings off marlin, a new shift boot, and got an OEM Toyota spring. Lubed it up and slapped it together. Last thing is to drill and tap the breather hole for a barbed fitting. Every breather fitting on the truck is going to connect to a rubber line going up to the top of the snorkel.

I had the engine and trans bolted up for mockup, I decided to separate them and install the clutch assembly, pulled em apart to do so

Pulled the oil pan to install my modified oil pan and found the potentially most annoying setback I've had so far. Valve keeper in the oil pan.

This next weekend I'm gonna pull the cams and buckets out to inspect for damage and if the engine is even missing one. I'm inclined to believe someone did valve stem seals and dropped this in the pan, but maybe that's just me being hopeful lol. Will update. Also, bought some cool softroader wheels for this. I could do beadlocks etc but being realistic about what I'll ever do with this (mostly limited by how far my friends will build their rigs) I've gone for a set of white Nomad 501's. Black Friday deal was a full set of 5 for $1196. 17x8.5 -10. Pretty stoked, I think it fits the aesthetic.

 

[aztoyman]

Now that I see your engine mounts, I don't think it will be moving like the stock mounts. So I doubt you'll have issues with the FROR T-case mount. Nice save on the shifter. I bought used ones from Marlin and they were pricy even before covid.

Looking good! Sucks about the keeper. Always somethin.

 

[gnob]

i couldn't eat the short throw price either so I built one.

 

[HiCruiser LandLux]

Pretty darn big progress this weekend. First up even though I had a spare motor I really wanted to investigate the 1UZ with the oil pan keeper. Pulled the cams to investigate

Was biting my nails checking this thing out to the very last keeper. They were all there, no visible damage to anything. Pretty much confirms my lazy technician hypothesis. Popped the pan off and swapped on the modified lower oil pan.

Got it off the stand and onto the hoist, slapped on the flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate. (Found out I have to pull everything bavk apart to toss in better flywheel bolts as I used OEM and thats apparently not good enough, the more you know...) got it bolted up to the transmission, transfer case combo.

Its one hell of a unit all bolted together. Ignore my sketchy quadrupled up strap my load leveller was at work lol. Got it up and in the truck.

Basically muscled the transfer case up over the body into the engine bay and slid it in from there. Have to leave the driver motor mount unbolted then bolt it up when its in position.

There it is in its home! The fitment of the transfer case is pretty killer, install is easy, plenty of space for everything, accessories, radiator, exhaust, maybe even AC?

 

[HiCruiser LandLux]

Getting under the truck after mounting the engine, realized good and bad news. The FROR transfer case mount will not work, because the case is too high, but also the case is safely tucked up above the frame rails so I'll take it lol. Not having anything to tackle that issue this weekend I decided to work on mounting the bumper. Measuring the ARB bumper vs the 80 series frame rails the bumper is the perfect size to slide in between them. I ended up extending the frame rails a bit

Cut the rear mounting tabs so the bumper could slide far enough back towards the grill. Braced the frame rail extensions.

Shouldn't be folding that too easily. The brace piece is made of 3/16" plate, figured that'll do the trick.

Used the hoist to line the bumper up, slides into place pretty easy. You can see the Bushwhacker flares I'm using as well, had to cover the tires somehow lol.

Still nearly a 45 degree approach angle with stock 80 series springs, currently planning on a 3inch lift spring, so she'll be sitting even better then that.

Final thing this weekend was to tack the bumper on, not gonna weld it, just need to drill the mounting holes. Cleaned the shop out too. Next weekend I wanna mount the transmission, build sliders, then its on to wiring

 

[aztoyman]

That engine, trans and T-case looked awesome. It sucks that you had to tear stuff apart to be sure about that keeper. You KNOW how it would have gone if you didn't double check though.

Check your drive flange angles when you do your T-case mount. I didn't think too much of that when I was setting mine up. Had to redo it.

Looking Baddass.

 

[HiCruiser LandLux]

It's been a slow few weeks with Thanksgiving and then being sick for a week and a half afterwards, (covid is a bitch) but finally got back out to the shop to start on the transmission mount

I opted for 1.75" .120" wall DOM as I had a surplus of it. Bushings are also plentiful for it.

Quick and simple, coped the tubes by cutting a V then using a drum sander on a die grinder, my new preferred method to do so.

Cut the transfer case side off of the factory mount and made plates to weld to the chassis. Sucker's pretty tough.

Fits up in there good. Gonna wait to weld it in untill bushings show up. As for pinion angles, my extremely scientific method is as follows: for the front, i don't care. I just wont go fast in 4wd, for the rear I'm gonna buy adjustable 4 links and match it to the powertrain. Id rather adjust the axle to match then put the powertrain in a less then optimal position

 

[HiCruiser LandLux]

Been up to some other random things, put some thinking into how im gonna wire the truck going forward, got a quick scribble of my intial "wiring diagram"

Got some parts ordered. I have friends that work on boats and they talked me into using the marine grade fuse blocks. Theyre small simple and tough, probably gonna mount them to the back of the cab behind the rear seats "backrest" as my battery will be under the flat bed against the cab

Been working on the engine side of things too as best as I could while sick, got some of the OE billet UZ fuel rails and cleaned and polished them up. Gonna do all my fuel fittings in AN lines, including the cross over lines between the rails

Also have been thinking about exhaust. Im assuming heat in the engine bay is gonna be an issue, (it sure as s*** is on my 1UZ racecar). I have tons of space for a proper header on either side but im thinking thick wall log headers into a Y pipe. Keep the diameter small, dual 2" into single 2.5", should be best for efficiency and torque. Gonna ceramic coat all the pipes at least back to the Y to try to keep heat out of the engine bay

Probably gonna pull all the studs besides the front and rear most for the headers and use bolts to make install and removal easier. Headers will be V banded for easy powertrain removal.

Kinda thinking about running the driver side exhaust under the motor by the Panhard bar to keep heat away from the slave cylinder. We will see. Thats all for now, will be getting back out this weekend.

 

[HiCruiser LandLux]

Been making molasses slow progress but still inching forward. Been working on alot of the "insert card or select payment type" aspects of the build lol. Returned the white -15 offset Nomad wheels and exchanged them for 17x8.5 +25 in grey. Goofy offset for a cruiser, but perfect for the Hilux body

Been trying to decide tire options as well, decided on some Milestar Patagonia XT's, 37x12.50r17. Great combo of off road capability and on road comfort. Plus they're stupid light

Got em Mounted and balanced at my buddies work. Shockingly light package, didnt scale em but not too spine compressing to pick up. Worst tire took 9oz of weight in total, not shabby for the size. My granddads little 2wd barely fit all 5 lol.

One of the reasons the progress has been so slow (besides the holidays, family issues, refinancing my house, selling my nice daily driver for another hooptie project) has been working on the garage. Downside is that as much progress I've made towards my end goal with the shop, in the meantime it's still a pain in the ass lol. Managed to clear space and get the big 37's test fit

she's lookin mean. Scored the ultimate facebook deal in the absence of actually working on the truck too, all 4 dobinsons 4" "slinky" lift springs, rear adjustable upper arms, extended OE style lowers, and a front panhard, all for $500

 

[HiCruiser LandLux]

Got the new to me Dobinsons under the truck. The ride height is perfect

Springs are very crusty, gonna send em out for powdercoat, previous owner spent alotta time in salty conditions. Ordered shocks after test fitting springs and they showed up pretty quick:

Icon stage 2 2.5 external reservoir 4-6" lift shocks for an 80 series. With my lighter truck and soft springs im hoping these are gonna be aggressive enough to have a firm, yet comfy ride.

Was gonna build headers for the truck until I found these 2UZ headers off ebay. Not amazing, but at $100 for the pair I think they're great. Quick test fit shows they'll be pretty solid. Gotta open the bolt holes to allow it to properly fit over the studs, then will be open up the ports, then Ceramic coat them for heat.

The garage has been chaotic making space for the other projects. Getting the 4 post up was a big time suck away from the truck. Got the springs out and off to powdercoat

The powdercoater knocked it outta the park. Pretty close colorwise and these have a gnarly metallic flake to em too. Only $300 for the powder coat, so only $600 into all 4 springs. Freakin nice for like new Dobinsons

 

[HiCruiser LandLux]

With the front springs out I wanted to check clearances to the oil pan, jacked the axle up and was pleasantly surprised

Miles of clearance. Gotta lower the bump stops to avoid tire to body interference and I just about maxxed it out

Still unsure if I wanna do some kinda fancy active bumpstop or just do a nocer poly urethane one. Any opinions would be appreciated. Also anyone have opinions on radius arms? Currently leaning towards the Delta 5" lift 1" extended arms.

So Icon kinda shafted me in annoying way. Didn't get the correct amount of bushings, only irritating because their customer support won't give me the time of day and the front pair were $900 on sale, but thats the way the cookie crumbles. Got the front springs back in and one shock installed

After getting the pretty bits on this thing I feel bad I didn't take the extra month or two to strip and paint the chassis. Oh well that's for next time I tear it apart. This image might get flagged for NSFW:

Very very happy with the way everything is sitting so far. Been workin on the 1UZ intake manifold on the side during my lunch breaks. Got it fully CeraKoted. Just plain black. Simple aluminum block off plates for all the unneeded accessories.

 

[Mike Shull]

I installed King 2.0 2” air bumps on my Cruiser and I like how they cushion the movement before bottling out. They are a bit noisy when they make contact with my metal pad, which for me is only an issue with my front end because I have 4” of up-travel with the front and the bump is constantly contacting the pad. Your clearance looks tight and you may experience something similar.

 

[Mike Shull]

Oops, disregard. I must have been looking at the fully stuffed picture. It looks like you have plenty of travel and I bet an air bump would work great in there. A poly bump would probably be just as effective.

 

[mesa man]

Bitchin build man!
This truck will be like a combination of 4 of my own vehicles! Gotta love the Hilux Land Cruiser!

 

[Broski]

Love the build, the intake looks fantastic !

There's a OEM bump stop that goes inside the coils that I don't see, it's more of a progressive bump then the frame mounted one that come into play first and softens the blow of hard hits. In fact the 95-97 don't have the frame mounted bump stops only the coil mounted one.

Dalta offer a can to fit inside the coil in the OEM spot to use a air or poly bump for $$ but I find the OEM one to be sufficient

 

[HiCruiser LandLux]

Alrighty folks I'm not dead and Ive been making big progress. Finished the Intake, got my valve covers sanblasted and coated (had to drill the baffle plates then drill and tap the rivet holes to get the sand out), got a Denso remanned starter, starter cables attached and installed the new covers, intake all bolted on pretty with my Audi ignition coils

Been working on stripping the cab interior out as well. Wanna use LizardSkin sound deadening on the whole cab interior, then do Vinyl floors incase she ever gets a good dunking going through a water crossing. Plan on mounting the batteries where the driver side rear seat was (i will use non vented AGMs) and have the fusepanel/relay board above it on the seat board

Next I started thinking about steering. The Pickup and LandCruiser use the same size steering shaft and threaded section. Got a cheap 18" length of 3/4" steering shaft from SpeedWay Motors to make a new steering shaft.

Irritatingly enough had to pull the header and modify the cylinder #1 runner to get out of the way of the steering. I notched the crap outta thebsteering shafts when I welded em up to get full proper penetration. Might be a degree or 2 off but that isn't terrible for doing it with a vise grip on a bench.

Fitment is tight but shockingly easy to service. Gonna use the original steering shaft plate, but I wanna get one of the heim style firwall joints.

Pretty stoked on how that's all looking now. Packed but tidy, I think it all looks nice. Pretty cool to steer the truck after starting this project 6 months ago

 

[HiCruiser LandLux]

Alright here comes what I think will be the most controversial aspect of this entire rig. My new radius arms.

I went with a full set of 6" lift Superior Engineering HyperFlex arms. I can already hear you typing "3 link it, what a waste of money", or "those drive like crap and cost too much" etc etc. Politely Bite me. The whole reason and idea behind this project was the fact I loved the fact 80 series are brilliantly capable Jack of all trades trucks.

Here's the truck flexed out on stock arms. I measured 18" from bottom of the tire to the ground. Pretty sad given the spring and shock setup IMO. The Caster was also deadly, could see it just when turning the wheels, much less going down the road.

Installed the HyperFlex arms. My impression of these things is that they're INCREDIBLY heavy duty, everything fit and lined up perfectly. The caster correction was incredible. Pushed the diff forward a bit too. Ran the suspension to full bump just to check.

Annnddddddd
There's the money shot. Went from 18 inches of travel to 28 INCHES INCHES IF TRAVEL. Absolutely insane. Thats without a bed, any weight in said bed etc. Fixed the caster problem and pushed the axle just a bit forward. Beyond happy with them.

Beyond happy with where the front tire is now. Next up this weekend Im gonna drop the motor an inch to 2 inches, then push it back at least an inch. After cycling the suspension, I see no reason to need to tuck it up so high. Its also gonna fix my front pinion angle so looking forward to that. Untill next time fellows

 

[Broski]

As a 80 owner and a serious rock crawler I'm trying to understand this what was the limiting factor the rear tire lifting off the ground ?
It's my understanding that shocks , bump stop and or limiting straps determined travel. How can control arms change that unless you meant Flex ?
It's really hard to tell from the pictures. Not trying to be a smart A** trying to learn here.

Again solid work/build !!

 

[HiCruiser LandLux]

As a 80 owner and a serious rock crawler I'm trying to understand this what was the limiting factor the rear tire lifting off the ground ?
It's my understanding that shocks , bump stop and or limiting straps determined travel. How can control arms change that unless you meant Flex ?
It's really hard to tell from the pictures. Not trying to be a smart A** trying to learn here.

Again solid work/build !!

Flex is what I meant, and the limiting factor was the rear tire lifting. The factory radius arms bound up and wouldn't let the front end of the rig flex, lifting the rear tire much sooner