Edited 4/29/17:
AHC Final numbers after cranking Torsion Bars.
W/25 gal of gas and third row seats:
10+ graduation from L to H.
LH T-Bar 1 CW turn, RH T-Bar 2 1/2 CW turns. This raised the front just a tad and leveled. (Measurements was taken differently then the original numbers, which makes these number appear as if front lower)
DS-----------------PS
F 19 3/16"--------19 3/16"
R 20 1/8"---------20 1/8"
I was able to get the desired target 6.8Mpa-g at Front Pressure Sensor.
Original numbers before adjustments.
W/out weight in the cabin 12gal of gas and no third row seat;
L to N waiting >30 sec. to take readings.
Measuring from Axle center to fender bottom.
DS----------------PS
F 19 5/16"-------19 1/4"
R 20 1/2"--------20 3/8"
Edited 4/28/17 with PMs between
@PADDO and myself, in which he had some good advice (IMHO) to tweak for perfection:
Paul I'm so sorry I haven't responded in a timely manner. I've several pms running at the moment, one called AHC docs and another AHC data and I confused myself as to who's court the ball was in. I apologize.
Now your screen shot looks good, pressures are very reasonable at heights very close to factory N. To be honest the 1/16 cross difference at the front is so trivial I wouldn't bother trying to correct it, iirc the fsm calls for a 10mm or less difference and I bet you'd get very slightly different results measuring hot to cold and on different days. I'd leave that well alone. Same with 1/8th at the rear.
With a front pressure of 7.2 I'd be inclined to put on 1.5 -2 cw turns on both torsion bars to lower the pressure between 0.3 and 0.4 MPa. My personal experimenting with pressure has me pretty confident that slightly lower then the 6.9 design spec provides slightly better damping. With new 100% charged damper globes then I trust Toyota to have found that 6.9 is optimal but with slightly aged globes with their slightly lower charge (due to gas permeation) pressure then having the mechanical spring to gas spring balance slightly tilted towards mechanical (the torsion bars) assists the gas spring (damper globe) absorb/rebound. You don't want to go to to low pressure as that puts more loading on the torsion bars (and the mechanical spring TB has a very different response rate and frequency to the gas spring globe) and relieves loading on the damper accumulators to the point where they don't absorb/expel enough fluid for proper damping. I've found somewhere around 6.7-6.8 works well with globes that are returning 10 ticks (14 for 4x new and 7 is end of serviceable life) so 10/14 probably equates to about 50% serviceable life remaining.
With the rear at 6.5 that's toward the upper range - nothing horrible like some guys with the 7.5-8.5 pressures - but at some point in the next year or two I'd suggest that new coils or 30mm spacers, or ideally both combined, would be desireable. Nothing needs to be done now but say just 30mm spacers for few $ will lower that pressure down to 6.0 I'd expect and that 0.5 reduction definitely assists the rear globes and provides for a much improved ride. Lower rear pressures also gives you the maximum load carrying capacity as you're not needlessly "wasting" pressure to maintain N height when that pressure could be better used to support passengers and cargo. For the rear load carrying capacity the pressures are cumulative - increasing rear height or increasing load or higher neutral pressures due to ageing spring set all go into the equation and at some point the pump pressure transducer says "enough" and shuts down and the vehicle reverts to L. At 6.5 you've still got enough leeway and I'd expect the vehicle would still carry its design weight capacity.
The noise you're hearing as the pump shuts off/solenoids close is very likely normal. Occasionally I get a bit of noise too and I put it down to the noise you naturally get out of valves as they close and there is latent fluid flow - not unlike water hammer with your washing machine, in some of the older systems I worked on the "valve chatter" as it's was called could be really bad and lead to damaged valve seats and the like. Often an internal damper spring would be fitted to buffer the valve chatter. Hope this all helps, I hope I've hit most of the points of interest and again I'm sorry for the tardy response.
Regards
Stephen
Hi Paul
I think the standard OEM Toyota coils are perfectly suited to what sounds like "designed use" - the next option would be aftermarket King KTRS-79s from Aus. They are advertised as +25% capacity over OE, perfect for those with bumpers, sliders, heavy roof rack etc but not necessary/overkill for a day to day "normal" LC. Slee and MAF sell the 30mm spacers, they're just polyurethane donuts so nothing special. If it were mine I'd do the new coils+spacers and know it's good to go for a long time. Happy for you to post up any/all of our discussions. Good luck with it all, I'll be out of range for a few days as I'm catching a plane to Aus in an hour for a compassionate trip.
Regards
Stephen