Scored 2007 LC w/174K AHC (1 Viewer)

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Found a bad anchor bolt when I pulled the seat some time ago. I can just imagine the DVD installer had the process down and was fast. I'll bet to save time he torque each seat anchor bolt one at a time as he installed,,, WRONG. it's always best practice to start all bolt first, snug them all down, then torque. Otherwise the last bolt(s) are difficult to align making cross threading likely & more difficult to detect. Fortuitously Toyota makes the removable bolt metal softer, than the stationary nut. I ran into this before on transmission pan bolt. So I pick up a nut & bolt thread cleaning set while waiting on new OEM bolt to arrive. Worked great and bolt torque in very tight.


Cross threaded damaging bolt threads, nut welded to body just needed cleaning with tap cleaner.
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Takes a little patients to turn about one tight revolution, remove and clean, then start over again.
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Had to be careful not to go to far, or tap would fall in.
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Found a rear bumper support bracket bolt busted. While waiting on new OEM bolt to arrive I removed old and cleaned threads here as well.
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Had a little body work to do on rear bumper support while at it, turn out well
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Had the camera only been working, I could have been saved this job.
 
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Speaking of camera thanks to @Goebeler and his brother I've got it working. They sold me a camera that came from a rusty eastern rear deck lid off a 04 series 100. I offered to buy it from his brother reducing his cost if he'd buy the deck lid, and so he did. He clipped of the plastic fasteners to release camera from body at my instruction, or should I say my bad as there's no part number for fasteners as it only comes with camera.

The 04 camera housing was rusted and missing seals, so I elected to swap internals. All the screws holding the plastic housing covering the lens just snapped as I tired to remove. So I had to cut housing cover off. It was risky as my bet was the camera lens is what was bad and not the circuit board wire connected to. If wrong, I be back to square one with no mountable camera. Fortunately I was right, swapping the camera lens/chip, which was free of any corrosion did the trick, and I was able to use the good camera housing.

Good camera form 04, bad housing.
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Sweet cut off with no damage to internals
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Bad lens from 07LC
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Picture at last.
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Now I need to decide if this chrome trim piece around shift is worth replacing. I'll bet it's around $50 from Dealer.

Would make console sweet to look at again. What do you think should I replace?

Edited: New bezel gives cleaner look, a gift to new owner.
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Old bezel
Shifter housing chrome trim pealing.JPG
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No I need to decid if this chrome trim piece around shift is worth replacing. I'll bet it's around $50 from Dealer.

Would make console sweet to look at again. What do you think should I replace?

At your level of OCD, that is not even a question - you must replace :)

All kidding aside, great work on reviving this rig. Can't wait to see what you do with the paint. To make me feel better, please tell me you're retired or have no kids???
 
Just to show I don't have OCD, I'll not perfect the paint.:moon: To bad, it would've looked like one could put their hand through the paint, but now:bang:

How about I hang a sign Paul's Restoration & Service 100 series only. Would you call it OCD when you pick up your rig, or guilty workmanship. Something hard to find these days.

Really this is just playing in the garage on a warm evening, with my toys (tools). I'm slow and methodical but all the above posted between 3/30-31/17 was just lite duty stuff done last evening.

My kids are all grown up. Does that make you feel better!
 
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Restoration = OCD to some I suppose.
Hope my OCD comment didn't come across in a negative tone, because now that I re-read the post it seems that way. No disrespect here at all, I wish I was at a point in my life where I could be that detailed with my rig, but alas time and money are non-existent for a kid still in school. Ive been called OCD many times and view it as a compliment on my perfectionism :) , knowing the literal meaning doesnt apply. But everyone on this forum knows you have the cleanest cruisers out there.

Back to the thread, I'm loving how documented you are making this resto. Those seat brackets we discussed in the PM are loose as a goose, so new bushings will be on order soon. Please keep documenting all the small/weird jobs so I can keep adding to my neverending list. :grinpimp:
 
Went to pick up the seat anchor bolt at Dealer, but it's lost in space between here & NY. The seat without even one bolt is just not safe, so my girlfriend will have to sit in the back seat. Hey she a back seat driver anyway.:lol:

Wasn't a waste of time. My parts buddy & I headed into parts warehouse on the hunt for two fasteners for the camera, with my micrometer in hand.

We found the perfect fit. If anyone is looking these the part # is 90189-A0002 . Be advised we could have mix bins (part #'s), as we pulled from a few different ones. But at least we have a replacement.

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Back up Camera clips 90189-A0002 (1).JPG
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Back up Camera clips 90189-A0002 (3).JPG
 
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Hope my OCD comment didn't come across in a negative tone, because now that I re-read the post it seems that way. No disrespect here at all, I wish I was at a point in my life where I could be that detailed with my rig, but alas time and money are non-existent for a kid still in school. Ive been called OCD many times and view it as a compliment on my perfectionism :) , knowing the literal meaning doesnt apply. But everyone on this forum knows you have the cleanest cruisers out there.

Back to the thread, I'm loving how documented you are making this resto. Those seat brackets we discussed in the PM are loose as a goose, so new bushings will be on order soon. Please keep documenting all the small/weird jobs so I can keep adding to my neverending list. :grinpimp:
No worries, I'm just playing with this OCD labeling. ADD, ADHD AC - DC, OCD the list goes on, seems labeling is the "thing" in the this sound bit texting tweeting age we're in.

The stuff I work on is not sexy like armor, lift etc.. It just getting the many systems under control "back to factory spec". As much as I really would like to keep this rig, it's not in the cards. But even-though it's not for my girlfriend or me, I want new owner feeling like a winner for many years to come. I get satisfaction from this and pride in doing a good job.

Cost to do the work I do is time & tools mostly. I have both right now and enjoy the hobby/work. It would take the average non wrencher' $8 to $12K in shop time, to get to my level of restoration. The trick to keeping cost down is replacing smallest part, not buying/replaceing a seat when just fixing that tiny parts is all that's needed and doing yourself.

Of the three I did last year only one was worth this level of detail. That was whitelady 01LX470 215K which had good bones like this 07. Graybear 00LX470 w/279K & Yeti 98LX470 w/300K just didn't have the bones to justify restoration to me. It wasn't the miles in those, it was rust & dents. Those just take to much in time & $ to justify financially. But even those found fitting homes, that didn't care a bit about cosmetics.

We all see buyers looking for low miles on this forum, but it's actually the condition they're looking for. Any 100 series, no matter of miles, if it has good bones can be brought back with time and patients to showroom ready.

Thank YOU @Dannyboy lx470. I've also learn a great deal for this forum and use it daily to help on these restoration.
 
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Weather was a bit chilly for playing in the garage so spent more time on test drive than repairs. My girl wasn't about to ride back seat. So I borrowed a bolt from my 01LC front seat anchor, to do some cruising in the Redbaron this weekend. What a sweet ride, getting on the HWY I punched it to blow out the carbon and see how it behaved. "OMG it like a sports car" my girl yelled out!

Ride and handling was good. Used my inferred temp gun after 50 miles HWY 5 city on front axle hub. Max temp was 98*F climbing to 103*F as it sat for 10 minutes. I'd call that running cool and very good results. For some prospective with ambient temp of 57*f, I check body temp in the sun; 130f.

I did manage to reinstall rear bumper after doing some minor rust preventive where bumper support rubbed on body. It's an area hidden by the bumper, which I've found on most 100 series I've worked on. It doesn't take much of a tap to bend the bumper support into body, which sets ~1/4 from body.
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After De-grease I painted with a self etching primer.
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Weather was a bit chilly for playing in the garage so spent more time on test drive than repairs. My girl wasn't about to ride back seat. So I borrowed a bolt from my 01LC front seat anchor, to do some cruising in the Redbaron this weekend. What a sweet ride, getting on the HWY I punched it to blow out the carbon and see how it behaved. "OMG it like a sports car" my girl yelled out!

Ride and handling was good. Used my inferred temp gun after 50 miles HWY 5 city on front axle hub. Max temp was 98*F climbing to 103*F as it sat for 10 minutes. I'd call that running cool and very good results. For some prospective with ambient temp of 57*f, I check body temp in the sun; 130f.

I did manage to reinstall rear bumper after doing some minor rust preventive where bumper support rubbed on body. It's an area hidden by the bumper, which I've found on most 100 series I've worked on. It doesn't take much of a tap to bend the bumper support into body, which sets ~1/4 from body.
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After De-grease I painted with a self etching primer.
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If I recall earlier in the trend you mentioned some wheels of yours from a Lc or Lx with black stain marks on them did you manage to get it off ?..I have the same problem on my lx wheels wont come off not sure if someone previous tryed cleaning them and screwed them up or is it brake dust stained . I'm thinking of spraying all four of mine to match them have you did this before Thankyou .
 
If I recall earlier in the trend you mentioned some wheels of yours from a Lc or Lx with black stain marks on them did you manage to get it off ?..I have the same problem on my lx wheels wont come off not sure if someone previous tryed cleaning them and screwed them up or is it brake dust stained . I'm thinking of spraying all four of mine to match them have you did this before Thankyou .
That was on a set of 01 LX470 wheels, where power buffing took silver paint off in spots. This revealed a black paint underneath the silver, not spot on paint. The plan (if I every get time) is to see if silver will buff off without removing black. Then I'd have factory black painted wheels.
 
That was on a set of 01 LX470 wheels, where power buffing took silver paint off in spots. This revealed a black paint underneath the silver, not spot on paint. The plan (if I every get time) is to see if silver will buff off without removing black. Then I'd have factory black painted wheels.

Ok my have actually big spots of black I have tryed polish I think silver has been striped. May have to paint.
 
How often and for how long do you do high rpm driving to clean the carbon out? Any measurable data or pictures to prove it actually even builds up or is removed with spirited driving?
 
How often and for how long do you do high rpm driving to clean the carbon out? Any measurable data or pictures to prove it actually even builds up or is removed with spirited driving?
Some people drive hard all the time, heavy footed. I drive my cruiser with a lite foot, being easy on all systems just as our Toyota OM recommends.

But occasionally I'll floor-it getting onto the HWY, until HWY speed is reached. The way I look at it, this pushes fuel through injectors faster, air through manifold faster and A/F mixture through heads ports faster. It also raises cylinder head temperature & exhaust temp cooking off residue. We called this blowing out the carbon as teenagers. Like washing off the siding on your house, the higher the pressure the more & faster the crud will come off. If I've gotten in plenty of HWY time I don't bother doing this. IMHO nothing better than long haul HWY drives for any car. The whole blow out the carbon had/has more value in muscle cars with their carburetors, buy still has some value today.

Cooking off the carbon/residue from cylinder head's & CAT's is a different procedure. For this I'll shift into lower gear so I can maintain 4,500 RPM or better. I'll do this for 3 to 5 minutes or longer if engine sounds good, then rest a few minutes (normal RPM) and repeat. The high sustain RPM raises cylinder head temp & exhaust temperature. This is like turning your oven to clean, black carbon burns to a white ash.

In the case of this 2007, I did these during & after running a can of 44K through the gas tank. Both these procedures also allow me to see how engine performs under load and at high RPM.

I've No data, no doubt google will reveal some interesting pro & cons.
 
8oz of trans fluid added to 20 gal of fuel will also provides a detergent effect on top end deposits.
 
8oz of trans fluid added to 20 gal of fuel will also provides a detergent effect on top end deposits.
Brings back memories. I'd see guy's poor water, brake fluid or ATF directly into carburetor to de-carbon. Today, fogging with SeaFoam is the norm.
 
Edited 4/29/17:
AHC Final numbers after cranking Torsion Bars.
W/25 gal of gas and third row seats:
10+ graduation from L to H.

LH T-Bar 1 CW turn, RH T-Bar 2 1/2 CW turns. This raised the front just a tad and leveled. (Measurements was taken differently then the original numbers, which makes these number appear as if front lower)
DS-----------------PS
F 19 3/16"--------19 3/16"
R 20 1/8"---------20 1/8"
I was able to get the desired target 6.8Mpa-g at Front Pressure Sensor.
1T T-bar LH, 2 1-2T T-bar RH, Full tank, all seats.JPG


Original numbers before adjustments.
W/out weight in the cabin 12gal of gas and no third row seat;
L to N waiting >30 sec. to take readings.
Measuring from Axle center to fender bottom.
DS----------------PS
F 19 5/16"-------19 1/4"
R 20 1/2"--------20 3/8"
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Edited 4/28/17 with PMs between @PADDO and myself, in which he had some good advice (IMHO) to tweak for perfection:

Paul I'm so sorry I haven't responded in a timely manner. I've several pms running at the moment, one called AHC docs and another AHC data and I confused myself as to who's court the ball was in. I apologize.

Now your screen shot looks good, pressures are very reasonable at heights very close to factory N. To be honest the 1/16 cross difference at the front is so trivial I wouldn't bother trying to correct it, iirc the fsm calls for a 10mm or less difference and I bet you'd get very slightly different results measuring hot to cold and on different days. I'd leave that well alone. Same with 1/8th at the rear.
With a front pressure of 7.2 I'd be inclined to put on 1.5 -2 cw turns on both torsion bars to lower the pressure between 0.3 and 0.4 MPa. My personal experimenting with pressure has me pretty confident that slightly lower then the 6.9 design spec provides slightly better damping. With new 100% charged damper globes then I trust Toyota to have found that 6.9 is optimal but with slightly aged globes with their slightly lower charge (due to gas permeation) pressure then having the mechanical spring to gas spring balance slightly tilted towards mechanical (the torsion bars) assists the gas spring (damper globe) absorb/rebound. You don't want to go to to low pressure as that puts more loading on the torsion bars (and the mechanical spring TB has a very different response rate and frequency to the gas spring globe) and relieves loading on the damper accumulators to the point where they don't absorb/expel enough fluid for proper damping. I've found somewhere around 6.7-6.8 works well with globes that are returning 10 ticks (14 for 4x new and 7 is end of serviceable life) so 10/14 probably equates to about 50% serviceable life remaining.
With the rear at 6.5 that's toward the upper range - nothing horrible like some guys with the 7.5-8.5 pressures - but at some point in the next year or two I'd suggest that new coils or 30mm spacers, or ideally both combined, would be desireable. Nothing needs to be done now but say just 30mm spacers for few $ will lower that pressure down to 6.0 I'd expect and that 0.5 reduction definitely assists the rear globes and provides for a much improved ride. Lower rear pressures also gives you the maximum load carrying capacity as you're not needlessly "wasting" pressure to maintain N height when that pressure could be better used to support passengers and cargo. For the rear load carrying capacity the pressures are cumulative - increasing rear height or increasing load or higher neutral pressures due to ageing spring set all go into the equation and at some point the pump pressure transducer says "enough" and shuts down and the vehicle reverts to L. At 6.5 you've still got enough leeway and I'd expect the vehicle would still carry its design weight capacity.
The noise you're hearing as the pump shuts off/solenoids close is very likely normal. Occasionally I get a bit of noise too and I put it down to the noise you naturally get out of valves as they close and there is latent fluid flow - not unlike water hammer with your washing machine, in some of the older systems I worked on the "valve chatter" as it's was called could be really bad and lead to damaged valve seats and the like. Often an internal damper spring would be fitted to buffer the valve chatter. Hope this all helps, I hope I've hit most of the points of interest and again I'm sorry for the tardy response.
Regards
Stephen

Hi Paul
I think the standard OEM Toyota coils are perfectly suited to what sounds like "designed use" - the next option would be aftermarket King KTRS-79s from Aus. They are advertised as +25% capacity over OE, perfect for those with bumpers, sliders, heavy roof rack etc but not necessary/overkill for a day to day "normal" LC. Slee and MAF sell the 30mm spacers, they're just polyurethane donuts so nothing special. If it were mine I'd do the new coils+spacers and know it's good to go for a long time. Happy for you to post up any/all of our discussions. Good luck with it all, I'll be out of range for a few days as I'm catching a plane to Aus in an hour for a compassionate trip.
Regards
Stephen
 
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Update:

I've had a surprising amount of purchase interest in the Redbaron.

The first person that showed interest in a PM move fast to give me a deposit, conditional on me delivering clear title. The messy out of State Title has now come back to me from Colorado State in good clean form. Buyer is free to reveal himself in mud and his interesting travel intention with this 07LC "Redbaron" if he chooses too.

Bottom line he's only interested in it being mechanically sound, so he'll not need to find a mechanic for extend time period where he's going. After some discussion we've decided to move up maintenance scheduled on minor & major items.

Here's the list, most new some I was doing: DONE
  1. Flushing power steering. (5k early to replace with M1 MV synthetic ATF)
  2. Changing engine oil & filter. (4K early, changing to synthetic M1 oil & filter)
  3. Changing all gear lubes. (5K to 10K early, to change to synthetic M1 75W-90 LS)
  4. Transmission drain & fill with Toyota WS. (So fluid can be inspected & level set)
  5. Replace wheel bearings & races. (Bearings look very good, but were scheduled for new at next 30K miles service due to high torque on adjusting nut to achieve desired preload)
  6. Rebuild stabilizer system front & rear. (Loved the handling results after doing the "King" 01LC)
  7. Timing Belt "complete job" (seals only if leaking, no sign at weep hole).
  8. Fan bracket. (As PM)
  9. Heater Tee's. (As PM, old look good but was scheduled at next coolant flush)
  10. Coolant flush with Toyota SLL pink. (20K early, getting out red)
  11. Spark plugs. (align with T-belt PM)
  12. PCV hoses. (PS 5K early, DS 20K early based on appearance and align with T-belt PM)
  13. Fuel filter. (align with T-belt PM)
  14. Replacing additional found missing or broken nuts, bolts, clamps & clip from prior T-belt job that I can source.
  15. Resetting wheel bearing breakaway pre-load after short break-in and replacing all cone washers & hub flange nuts at that time.
No addition cosmetic work, detailing or paint perfecting. Just cleaning and finishing up interior.
 
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