Scored 2006 LC w/58K OMG Clean! (1 Viewer)

[2001LC]

Hum. He said; they sometimes see rotor show themselves as warped only when hot.

Not trying to cause a stir, I just thought that was the most silly thing I've heard in a long time. This is just another opinion, for example.
-Warped- Brake Disc and Other Myths

I disagree @jerryb Warp may not be best word to use, but is most common. Hot spot may be better.
As soon as "he said" that a light went off in my head , concerning issue with steering wheel vibrating in a video text i received from Snowy's new owner. I could see his RPM dropped then speed and shiftier was in D, as steering wheel began vibrating. This indicates braking used to control speed in HWY down hill driving, not a good idea. Gear down people or brakes may overheat and fail!


I don't use brakes to control speed in down hill runs, as it's foreign to me driving in mountains, which I've done all my life. To do so heats the brakes and they can fail. I've seen countless drivers use runaway ramp's from loosing brakes, as they smoke. Most of those are the "pros" 18 wheeler's that fail to down shift as required.

I also recalled Snowy's rotors were replaced less than 50K miles ago with aftermarket and OEM pads, not a bad combination. But if not broken in properly (seated) they can develop hot spots. One reason we break in rotor is to heat them evenly, to condition the metal. Procedure is to ride the brake peddle slowing but not stopping from 35 MPH, three time before using brakes to stop. Stopping during this break-in will create excessive heat on rotor at point under pad(s) as rest of rotor disk metal cools at different rate. This can create uneven metal conditioning, a hot spot. Hope that makes sense. If that hot spot is uneven material transfer or uneven Annealing I can't say.

Theory was; as rotor heated it would expand differently in that one hot spot then in the rest of surface area of rotor disk.

This explained why I did not experience the steering wheel vibration, driving the Rocky Mountain HWYs on my test drive in the long 8%, 12% and even some 18% downhill grades.

Snowy's new owner was told by an ASE certified Mechanic "front end was junk and needed a total rebuild" or some BS like that. I called BS. I explained what I thought was issue. I also reminded him, I offered to rebuild brakes while in my shop, as one front inner PS pad was a bit thinner than others, but could last 30K miles the way I drive. (I get 90K plus on fronts). Offer was declined, due to possible delaying timing of pick-up.

He now took my recommendation, and had Dealer turn Rotor on the rig. He did not replace pad (I would have, as I always do both together).

He reported problem solved after rotors turned!

Can't think of any better example of a warped rotor. Again semantics, condition is actually a "Hot spot" (for lack of better word) from not breaking in properly.

 

[jerryb]

well, hopefully they measured run out, tightened in sequence with the correct torque. Or it just happens again eventually. Personally I believe it should be called -out of true and -material transfer creating high spots. To each their own. )
if anyone wonders, front run out spec is .07mm max front, and .1mm rear. I think if everyone at least tried to measure and follow correct tire mounting procedures they could ride the brake until they smell fluid or feel the fade with no rotor abnormalities.
I never saw a 911, m3, vette rotor swap after/before the next track day, fluid and pads yes. Not rotors. It's all good Paul. I Think we mostly agree on all that. Much respect.

Jerry

 

[2001LC]

well, hopefully they measured run out, tightened in sequence with the correct torque. Or it just happens again eventually. Personally I believe it should be called -out of true and -material transfer creating high spots. To each their own. )
if anyone wonders, front run out spec is .07mm max front, and .1mm rear. I think if everyone at least tried to measure and follow correct tire mounting procedures they could ride the brake until they smell fluid or feel the fade with no rotor abnormalities.
I never saw a 911, m3, vette rotor swap after/before the next track day, fluid and pads yes. Not rotors. It's all good Paul. I Think we mostly agree on all that. Much respect.

Jerry

THX Jerry, checking run out is a good idea. So is proper torquing of lugs.

Typically I'll feel a pulse when braking regardless of brake rotor & pad temperature, if run out over limit. In example of Snowy there was no indication of warping during normal driving.

If run out is off, turning rotor corrects this. So checking run out after turning on-car brake lathe is not generally done.

The 100 series front disk (rotor) are separate component bolted to the axle hub by way of the disk's drum. This design will not readily lend itself to warping rotor from improper torque of lug nuts. Not saying it can't, just less likely then as seen on many vehicle design. But some of these techs at tire shops really nail us with there impact wrench. It one reason, I make a point of going into shop as they balance and mount. It would warp axle hub first, if warped it must be replaced. Axle hub is a very heavy/thick piece not easily warp.

Picture of Snowy's brake disk (AKA rotor)

I did see something, at time I had rotor off, I just thought staining from pads, due to rig sitting after being in deep mud. I now think this was the hot spot. I'll now be on watch for this type of stain.

I can't say if this peddle vibration is from uneven heating during break in, or uneven deposit of pad materiel on disk or warp axle hub.

What I can say is I've now adjusted my inspection/test drive to ride the brakes on down hill runs. To create condition for testing for brake peddle vibration.

 

[2001LC]

Anyway The Black Knight front brake disk (rotor) thickness measure in at ~31.91 so they'll be turn-able on a lathe two times is my guess. Clues are, rotor were not turned when new pads installed at 29K miles.

 

[Rolocado]

Anyway The Black Knight front brake disk (rotor) thickness measure in at ~31.91 so they'll be turn-able on a lathe two times is my guess. Clues are, rotor were not turned when new pads installed at 29K miles.
View attachment 1577554

With regards to the knuckle getting pounded during removal, I have a puller but it sometimes isn’t enough to get the ball joint popped. Whats the best method for doing so without scaring the knuckle?

 

[2001LC]

@abuck99 I ended up rebooting the LH front drive shaft. Not my favorite job as it messy and time consuming, especially the outboard CV cleaning. I was temped to use the 3M 5200 adhesive, but didn't see rubber or plastic on list. I also just have more faith in new OEM boots. The new OTC 4722 clamp installer tool worked well. I did find using my crimping pliers first to get snug and aligned useful. I did not close the gap to .8mm of clamps, more like 2mm. So I've room to tighten if they weep.

 

[abuck99]

Sucks you had to re-boot but definitely best practice scenario on a rig that clean. I also find it interesting to be able to observe the wear of the CV inner components with 60k miles vs what you might find at 160k or 200k miles. Did you notice anything remarkable?

 

[fooldall1]

"my sixth 100 series" lol.

Rub it in ya basterd.

 

[2001LC]

With regards to the knuckle getting pounded during removal, I have a puller but it sometimes isn’t enough to get the ball joint popped. Whats the best method for doing so without scaring the knuckle?

Assuming you can get your puller on.
Get it on as squarely as possible and tight it down very hard. The give the knuckle a good hard wack at area of pull. Then tighten the puller some more. Repeat until pops. If you have a BFH brass all the better, but use a 5lb BFH. You just don't need to beat the s%$t out it.

Sucks you had to re-boot but definitely best practice scenario on a rig that clean. I also find it interesting to be able to observe the wear of the CV inner components with 60k miles vs what you might find at 160k or 200k miles. Did you notice anything remarkable?

First off grease as you can see is like new, but history indicates only 10K on that.

Less heat blueing on inboard tulip. Opinion was on high mileage, when I pointed out blueing, it's "from factory". This indicates may be heat from driving.

As you can see inside of tulip was really clean with little wear. High mileage different story, they have visible wear.

The inner race was hard to get off, very tight. I hit on with brass dowel to get off & on (needed a brass BFH). Don't recall doing that before.

"my sixth 100 series" lol.

Rub it in ya basterd.

Actually The Black Knight is number 8 (7th in two years). My 07 Unicorn is lucky 7.

 

[fooldall1]

LOL. just jealous man. I love my LC and I can see the reason for the fever. I WISH I could buy more than one!

 

[2001LC]

I picked up a fresh can cleaner and took care PM of MAF sensor, and cleaned battery post. I also replaced both Heater Tee's and got a big surprise...

While waiting 20 minutes with battery disconnected to reset ECM, I replace the Heater Tee's.

I did not have any sign these Tee's needed replacing by look, while in the rig. Just did as a matter of base-line.
Pre-engine cleaning:

Post-engine cleaning:

I was surprised at what I found. I'd say the condition of these tee's makes a statement as to question of age vs miles:

I'm adjusting my PM schedule to replace Heater Tee's at 7 years max.

 

[2001LC]

Got another surprise (Spark Plugs) while doing compression check.

Compression was even all the way through, best I've seen. SWEET!

At first I thought I had bad compression, when I then realized my battery was low, from having all doors open last few days while detailing interior.

So I hooking up my battery charger. I was then able to get a much better (not ideal) cranking speed. But needed too move fast before engine cooled, so didn't wait on battery to fully charged. BTW: FSM states remove oil dipstick guide (ODG). Not sure why they say remove ODG, suppose it for better access?

The surprise was; loose spark plugs, in what I believe is factory installed plugs. 4 out 8 loose, with one (#4) very loose. #1 medium, #3 loose, #5 loose, #7 tight, #2 medium, #4 very loose, #6 loose, #8 normal. Interesting these are NGK IFR6A11 plugs which I believe are factory installed, but IDK that. For some reason, I've always thought factory used Denso SK20R11, although FSM does say either.

This very loose plugs, for sure had a good amount of combustion gas escaping.

Even so all plugs showed good clean combustion burn. SWEET!

After clean & inspecting I use a little anti seize, but I'm very sparing here. I wipe then blow off anti seize so only a residue remain on upper portion of threads. As always I check gap to insure not to wide (FSM 1.1 to 1.3mm) then torque in to 13LB. I got ~1.1mm on all but number #1 which was 1.17mm.

 

[2001LC]

While air box off was good time to re-torque head-cover bolts. All turned ~1/2 a turn to reach 53in.ftl.

It was also good time to replace the duel vacuum hose assembly I spotted in earlier inception. These seem very common to be bad, now that I know to look. As does this small double clip.

I find this clip (clamp) busted in almost ever rig, must be bad grade of plastic. Will see if replacement any better.

 

[aging fleet]

I find this clip (clamp) busted in almost ever rig, must be bad grade of plastic. Will see if replacement any better.
View attachment 1579587

Paul, while at times I think your thoroughness is borderline crazy, I have to thank you for documenting part numbers along the way. Little bits like this are a pain in the ass to find in the parts diagrams so it's nice to be able to find them in your threads.

Carry on sir.

 

[2001LC]

Clean interior & carpet even as clean as this one is yield good results. One place I always find neglected is under plastic. Number one being door thresholds. They get sand built up which cut through paint to body metal. I clean, de-rust, treat with POR-15 metal prep and paint with self-etching primer.

Removing all plastic off carpet really helps in clean it, just one more place pro detailer's rarely touch.

I used a dry shampoo as I've done on every rig over past few years. It's at a car wash and is so strong I use a gas mask while using and too get home. Takes weeks and many vacuuming to get fumes out. But when done, any old carpet odor is gone. Does a great job clean as well without soaking carpet. BTW: Toyota recommends we only use dry shampoo.

 

[2001LC]

Paul, while at times I think your thoroughness is borderline crazy, I have to thank you for documenting part numbers along the way. Little bits like this are a pain in the ass to find in the parts diagrams so it's nice to be able to find them in your threads.

Carry on sir.

Sometimes I do too .

But only those with the time, tools and a passion for our 100 series would even consider this level of "thoroughness". I can say it would be difficult finding a shop, short of a full restoration shop, that will go to my level of detail, it just too time consuming.

You're welcome for part numbers, hope you get a little more out of my postings' then just that! For me, part numbers are easy, my Toyota parts guy takes care of that. Building list of parts and ordering, that is very time consuming and PITA.

My neighbor does & has done a tons work on his home, worker's around all the time for last five years. He has jobs done as cheap as possible with sub par materials that he knows will not last. He'll plant trees where one days he knows will create a problem. His intends on selling house before poor materials, workmanship or poorly planted tree grow into issue, so not his problem. This is today world, just not me.

My GF said why buff the roof nobody will see (she's 5'4"). But failure to take care of any part, just because some can't be see, turns into problems for someone at some point. I never knowingly pass-on undisclosed or hidden problems.

For me I treat even restore project as if I'll keep forever. In fact, I try to get even more done now on these restore's, as I'll not have around to do in future at my leisure. I know I'll not find it all, as we've so many system on the 100. But I get what I can, giving special attention to mechanical. What can I say, take pride in my work.

 

[74fj40]

Pretty sure I just saw this in person. Looks amazing. Had to pull up the build thread after it drove off to confirm the California plates... spotted at Groove Toyota. I’ve seen it here a few times, but never made the connection to this one until today. I will say hi next time.

 

[2001LC]

Yep that was me. I was picking up a battery and gasket for the suction plate (fuel pump to Tank) for the 07 Unicorn. The Work begins!

You work in the shop @74fj40 ?

Thanks for saying so, The Black Knight is an amazing sweet ride and looks great. Best I've ever had or driven. Do say hi next time you see me. If you like, I'll show you the rigs Interior, undercarriage & engine bay you'll think it just came off the showroom floor. The guy's up stairs gather around the screen of loading dock camera to look at it. This one is really attracting attention at the Dealership.

Did you notice I've put on bug shield, running boards and got rid of the knobbies? I've taken out the cool look, winterizing it. But it's running & handling so smooth now. Not much left to do but enjoy.

I've want a clean slate to start with for some time, this is it! It's like turn back the clock 14 years to my first Land Cruiser The King.

 

[2001LC]

Did a little finish up before a lite snow storm rolled in. I replaced the foam pad that fits between the radiator and skid plate. This foam breaks down after 4 to 7 years and then hold water. It's know to cause factory skid plate to rust out by retaining water. I had stop replacing these, but waving as to it's benefit. On Snowy I had a report of belt squeal after driving in a rain storm. It may be this foam helps reduce road moisture and dust from entering lower engine compartment. But Toyota tech support stated to me: it's a "vibration dampener". Most would say it helps direct airflow to radiator. Anyway I'll test some other day on different rig, as with freeze temps rolling in I just decided to install now.

After power washing and touch up POR-15 paint. I gave a final wipe with a degreaser before sticking on.

Nice they add a center line makes aligning easy.

Was following old foam lines, not my straight line.

I had tested old to see if water repelled, it failed.

 

[2001LC]

Also pulled off trailer hitch which I've only had bolt loose. I had installed in a parking lot with only a small shocket wrench while picking up in CA. I had planned on just leaving off saving the weight, but decision was made to keep installed.

These bolt were in great shape so I'll be greasing up in effort to prevent from rust & freezing in the frame. The design of these hitch especially the PS with it's hook and ring using the hitch securing bolt traps moisture. These bolt need breaking off often to get out due to rust. I feel some marine grease packed in bolt thread can reduce is not stop rusting issue.

Any way just took off some light surface rust and POR-15 the spots that always have issue.

Thanks to a fellow mudder I no longer apply grease between hitch and frome. He pointed out it nut so much bolt shear strength, but that of static clamp pressure that holds the hitch in place while towing. Made good sense to me so, make a de rust PM is better alternative.

I'll torque on hitch after POR- 15 has some time to cure, and I can catch a warm day.