Body trim polishing & correcting compounds

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I've been searching in 100 & paint forums. Found tons if good stuff on repainting trim pieces, but not polishing. Probably somewhere in mud, but my eye's are going trying to find.

I've picked up my first DA buffer, and using the Meguiar's DA Microfiber correction, polishing and finish compounds to remove the minor imperfection and scratches, looking great.

I'm concerned if I use the correcting or polishing compound on the plastic trim (emblems, side trim & bumpers etc..) I'll take the finish (paint) off???

Anyone have any insight?

Edited with after pictures:
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Interior (22).webp
 
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As with all things detailing, use the least aggressive pad/polish combo necessary for the job. That said, I have used the Meguiars microfiber pads with their aggressive compounds in each of the parts you listed with no negative consequences.
 
Depending on if the finish is painted or just rubber really dictates what can be used in what.

Bumper faces are usually softer than the main body of the vehicle so extra care should be used.

As always, start with the lowest cut polish and pad and work your way up if needed. I'm not sure if the Meguiar's DA has a removable backing plate, but if it does, get one that's pliable vs the steel disc to prevent the edges biting into the pad and potentially into the paint. It's less likely to happen with a DA vs rotary but it's still worth the extra cost and peace of mind. It's hard to screw up with a DA, it is possible, but compared to using a rotary, it's much more amateur friendly!

Proper surface prep is key. Wash, dry, claybar, then tape off all trim pieces and rubber edges.

Being a car detailer and business owner (15 years now), I use a lot of the Meguiar's Professional products which are not usually found OTC. I'm not sure which products you are using but if you're going with the consumer line, the ultimate series is decent enough. Their liquid wax (which is really a sealant as its 100% synthetic) is easy to use as it will not stain trim like conventional waxes will.

If you really want to get into it, 105, 205, and No. 7 glaze are always in my arsenal, though they take a bit of patience and a learning curve but once you're used to them, the results are spectacular.

Which pieces do you plan on polishing/restoring? As mentioned before, each area needs its own care and specified product.

--------------
I'm about to go off on a tangent so if you don't want to read then you don't have to!

The biggest thing is keeping up on it. Once you claybar, compound (if needed), polish, glaze, and seal, it's best to not use automatic car washes... Touchless or the conventional. I tell people this because each has its own negatives... Touchless carwashes have very acidic chemicals which are needed in order to clean your vehicle. Kind of like you can't wash your hands with just water alone, you need abrasion. The chemicals will dry out weatherstripping, door trim, and paint... That's one of the reasons why you see so many new cars with faded rubber trim.

A spray quick detailer for LIGHT dust is appropriate as long as the vehicle isn't too dusty. But overall, proper hand washing and drying will see the paint is cared for. (I could go into this a whole lot more but I've already written a book here).

My truck will be 18 years old next month; it's been my daily driver for the last five years and is driven all year, and so many people don't believe that it's that old. That's mainly from keeping up on washing and detailing sessions, refusing the "free" carwash at the dealership (if I go there for something), and bucket washing in the winter at the self serve. Some people aren't dedicated as I am, which is fine as I have a business image to upkeep, plus I plan on keeping this thing till it dies, but my point is that with a little care and upkeep you can make almost anything look new. It becomes a problem when potential customers see my truck and then think I can work miracles and make their 90s Geo with peeling paint and missing headlights look like a showroom car...

------------

Anyway, let us know, I will try to help more once I get more specifics! Sorry for the long-winded and meandering post, as a detailer I always enjoy sharing information and tips with others.

Cheers,

Rich
 
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When we (okay, I was learning and handing tools, pads...) restored the paint on the 100, the roof rack and trim around the windows were treated the same as the paint - the 2nd stage through polish. The more abrasive steps (Liquid Sand and Cut-1) were skipped. Prior to the polishing, those black plastic pieces had that odd rainbow/oily/faded look. Now, they're deep, glossy black. They were sealed with the same sealant as paint.

I'll only add one thing to Rich's post - a point he'd probably say "Well, of course" to ;-) Don't use terrycloth to dry the car/truck. I thought I was babying my 100 by using nice (okay, formerly nice) towels. One of the guys who restored the paint on my 100 said "Hmmm... got a nice stack of terrycloth towels at home" as he held a small light over the paint... which I'd thought looked good, 'til he pointed this out:
IMG_6083.jpg


He said most of the damage to paint is from washing - dirty mitts, no bucket screen, auto and touches carwashes (what Rich described) - and drying with course towels.

He and his guys made it all better...
IMG_6126-1.jpg
 
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01 Dec 2016 414.webp
Some good info, thanks guys. I'll post some pic's here, as soon as I get time.
 
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When we (okay, I was learning and handing tools, pads...) restored the paint on the 100, the roof rack and trim around the windows were treated the same as the paint - the 2nd stage through polish. The more abrasive steps (Liquid Sand and Cut-1) were skipped. Prior to the polishing, those black plastic pieces had that odd rainbow/oily/faded look. Now, they're deep, glossy black. They were sealed with the same sealant as paint.

I'll only add one thing to Rich's post - a point he'd probably say "Well, of course" to ;) Don't use terrycloth to dry the car/truck. I thought I was babying my 100 by using nice (okay, formerly nice) towels. One of the guys who restored the paint on my 100 said "Hmmm... got a nice stack of terrycloth towels at home" as he held a small light over the paint... which I'd thought looked good, 'til he pointed this out:
IMG_6083.jpg


He said most of the damage to paint is from washing - dirty mitts, no bucket screen, auto and touches carwashes (what Rich described) - and drying with course towels.

He and his guys made it all better...
IMG_6126-1.jpg
Who worked your paint? Looks amazing!
 
Who worked your paint? Looks amazing!

Varigon Solutions. New company (about 18 months old); they're the manufacturer of the chemicals/compounds/sealants, etc. ACC Garage in Atlanta is set up/trained to do the work. PM me for details
 
As with all things detailing, use the least aggressive pad/polish combo necessary for the job. That said, I have used the Meguiars microfiber pads with their aggressive compounds in each of the parts you listed with no negative consequences.
Good to know, thanks. I been concerned because I made a of mess of my wheel with a drill bit end foam buffer, while working in poor lighting conditions. Next step well be if I can remove all the silver while leaving the black intact.
Wheels & tires (25).webp


Depending on if the finish is painted or just rubber really dictates what can be used in what.

Bumper faces are usually softer than the main body of the vehicle so extra care should be used.

As always, start with the lowest cut polish and pad and work your way up if needed. I'm not sure if the Meguiar's DA has a removable backing plate, but if it does, get one that's pliable vs the steel disc to prevent the edges biting into the pad and potentially into the paint. It's less likely to happen with a DA vs rotary but it's still worth the extra cost and peace of mind. It's hard to screw up with a DA, it is possible, but compared to using a rotary, it's much more amateur friendly!

Proper surface prep is key. Wash, dry, claybar, then tape off all trim pieces and rubber edges.

Being a car detailer and business owner (15 years now), I use a lot of the Meguiar's Professional products which are not usually found OTC. I'm not sure which products you are using but if you're going with the consumer line, the ultimate series is decent enough. Their liquid wax (which is really a sealant as its 100% synthetic) is easy to use as it will not stain trim like conventional waxes will.

If you really want to get into it, 105, 205, and No. 7 glaze are always in my arsenal, though they take a bit of patience and a learning curve but once you're used to them, the results are spectacular.

Which pieces do you plan on polishing/restoring? As mentioned before, each area needs its own care and specified product.

--------------
I'm about to go off on a tangent so if you don't want to read then you don't have to!

The biggest thing is keeping up on it. Once you claybar, compound (if needed), polish, glaze, and seal, it's best to not use automatic car washes... Touchless or the conventional. I tell people this because each has its own negatives... Touchless carwashes have very acidic chemicals which are needed in order to clean your vehicle. Kind of like you can't wash your hands with just water alone, you need abrasion. The chemicals will dry out weatherstripping, door trim, and paint... That's one of the reasons why you see so many new cars with faded rubber trim.

A spray quick detailer for LIGHT dust is appropriate as long as the vehicle isn't too dusty. But overall, proper hand washing and drying will see the paint is cared for. (I could go into this a whole lot more but I've already written a book here).

My truck will be 18 years old next month; it's been my daily driver for the last five years and is driven all year, and so many people don't believe that it's that old. That's mainly from keeping up on washing and detailing sessions, refusing the "free" carwash at the dealership (if I go there for something), and bucket washing in the winter at the self serve. Some people aren't dedicated as I am, which is fine as I have a business image to upkeep, plus I plan on keeping this thing till it dies, but my point is that with a little care and upkeep you can make almost anything look new. It becomes a problem when potential customers see my truck and then think I can work miracles and make their 90s Geo with peeling paint and missing headlights look like a showroom car...

------------

Anyway, let us know, I will try to help more once I get more specifics! Sorry for the long-winded and meandering post, as a detailer I always enjoy sharing information and tips with others.

Cheers,

Rich
Hey Rich thank you. The backing plates I have do have some flex with heavy foam or rubber pad with fish loops attached by a small steel plate for mounting. The correcting pad is a little large with foam backing. I taped off the trim, plastic and marker lights for the D300 correction compound with correcting pad. I'd like to save some of the taping if possible next time, but don't no if that advisable?

Next I'm going to use a polishing compound. Should I leave tape on and do body first, then remove too polish the painted plastic second? Or can I just remove tape and polish all at once?
Meguiars correcting compound 052.webp


Meguiars correcting compound 022.webp

When we (okay, I was learning and handing tools, pads...) restored the paint on the 100, the roof rack and trim around the windows were treated the same as the paint - the 2nd stage through polish. The more abrasive steps (Liquid Sand and Cut-1) were skipped. Prior to the polishing, those black plastic pieces had that odd rainbow/oily/faded look. Now, they're deep, glossy black. They were sealed with the same sealant as paint.

I'll only add one thing to Rich's post - a point he'd probably say "Well, of course" to ;) Don't use terrycloth to dry the car/truck. I thought I was babying my 100 by using nice (okay, formerly nice) towels. One of the guys who restored the paint on my 100 said "Hmmm... got a nice stack of terrycloth towels at home" as he held a small light over the paint... which I'd thought looked good, 'til he pointed this out:
IMG_6083.jpg


He said most of the damage to paint is from washing - dirty mitts, no bucket screen, auto and touches carwashes (what Rich described) - and drying with course towels.

He and his guys made it all better...
IMG_6126-1.jpg
I thought 100% cotton towel was ok, isn't that what a terry cloth is?
You mean the black metal around window and not the black plastic correct?
BTW the way your "100" is really looking good.

I've got a long way to go to get anything close to yours
Meguiars correcting compound 034.webp
 
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Your paint looks like it is in good shape, I bet it will polish out well. I recommend spending a bit of time over on Autogeek.com and watch some of Mike Phillips' introductory videos. It will give you a good idea of the basics like amount of product, pressure and speed. I think it is easier to watch someone do than to read it. Your D/A polisher is relatively safe on paint but you can still do some damage if not careful.

No cotton towels on paint. Microfiber towels only!!!
 
Yes, microfibers only, the terry towels are only good for wiping one thing and it's not your paint! ;)

In terms of taping my philosophy is better safe than sorry, tape is cheap enough, but damaging a trim piece and having to replace is a bit more expensive. Not as hard with a DA but anything's possible.

The painted sections can be done all at once, as long as they aren't rubber (I'm assuming they're the lower cladding).
 
Your paint looks like it is in good shape, I bet it will polish out well. I recommend spending a bit of time over on Autogeek.com and watch some of Mike Phillips' introductory videos. It will give you a good idea of the basics like amount of product, pressure and speed. I think it is easier to watch someone do than to read it. Your D/A polisher is relatively safe on paint but you can still do some damage if not careful.

No cotton towels on paint. Microfiber towels only!!!
I've used a synthetic chamois to dry for years, was that a bad idea?

Maguiar's (OTC) is a product line I've used for years. So when I found this YouTube, it's the products I elected to start my first DA job. I was surprised this stuff is not available in my area not even a automotive paint supply store that carries Maquiars. Makes me think the DA Microfiber line was not well received by the pros.




Yes, microfibers only, the terry towels are only good for wiping one thing and it's not your paint! ;)

In terms of taping my philosophy is better safe than sorry, tape is cheap enough, but damaging a trim piece and having to replace is a bit more expensive. Not as hard with a DA but anything's possible.

The painted sections can be done all at once, as long as they aren't rubber (I'm assuming they're the lower cladding).


Yes, I am speaking of the lower cladding. I guess the trick is to use caution on the transition, form one surface to the other.
 
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BTW: My plan is to work on paint chips and such, after I've finished working with the DA buffer. Is this a good plan?
 
Well if you're going to be touching up paint chips properly it's going to involve a lot of wet sanding and buffing, so it may make sense to do touch up first.

Here's a thread I posted on that I offered a lot of advice in terms of products, application, and paint touch ups:

Paint chip repair help
 
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Well if you're going to be touching up paint chips properly it's going to involve a lot of wet sanding and buffing, so it may make sense to do touch up first.

Here's a thread I posted on that I offered a lot of advice in terms of products, application, and paint touch ups:

Paint chip repair help

I looked at link you supplied and have a couple of question:

Can the lacquer thinner be used to clean and work excessive Touch-up paint I have from Toyota/Lexus Dealer? Or is there something better I can use?
I'm thinking I could wipe messes and high spots before paint is dry with the lacquer thinner.

What grit(s) of wet sand paper is best for chip and small scratch touch up?
 
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I've used a synthetic chamois to dry for years, was that a bad idea?

My opinion is yes, bad idea. I try to touch the paint as little as possible, either using optimum onr or if normal wash and dry, I get the leaf blower out. I see how ocd you are with everything else, you may not want to step off the ledge of the slippery slope here, takes all of the fun out of keeping the rides clean and shiny!
 
I've been using a leaf blower for a cpl yrs - works great... much faster and easier than a chamois. It helps I all of the Windows are coated with Rain-X or similar.
 
Time to make some room for a home high pressure washer. Then washing at home and using a Leaf blowers would be a very good idea, THX.

Just pick up a load of various micro fiber towels. My cotton towel just became grease rags.
 
I looked at link you supplied and have a couple of question:

Can the lacquer thinner be used to clean and work excise Touch-up paint I have from Toyota/Lexus Dealer? Or is there something better I can use?
I'm thinking I could wipe messes and high spots before paint is dry with the lacquer thinner.

What grit(s) of wet sand paper is best for chip and small scratch touch up?

Usually once that touch-up paint is on there it's a beotch to take off. The point of a toothpick is to prevent messes and high spots which show up when you're trying to perfect a scratch with touch-up paint. People make the mistake of using a brush and just glom it all on and say, done, but it's a bit more involved than that. When you apply it with a toothpick, the paint itself pulls the touch-up paint into it, leaving you with no brush marks and minimal raised areas. After applying clearcoat, sand down and buff as necessary.

Sandpaper I use varies from 5000-1000 grit depending on surface prep and also surface material, ie: plastic bumper, metal door, etc... I'll start with the highest first and work my way down to the courser ones until I find one that levels the paint with the surrounding area.


Time to make some room for a home high pressure washer. Then washing at home and using a Leaf blowers would be a very good idea, THX.

Just pick up a load of various micro fiber towels. My cotton towel just became grease rags.

In terms of not touching your paint at all, washing is key with a good soap that provides plenty of lubricity. Meguiars 62 provides a huge amount of lubricity, and it doesn't suds a lot. People are misled into thinking suds = better cleaning, but that's not necessarily the case. Use this with the double-bucket method with soap in one and pure water in the other with grit guards on the bottom and you'll be fine!

When you rinse, do a final rinse with the "flood" method, with the nozzle off the garden hose, allowing the water to flow over and flood each body panel (this works best if you keep up with waxing your paint). Do it from top to bottom and you're left with barely any water droplets, and any if at all blow right off with a shop vac blower, leaf blower, etc.

Watch out for microfibers, a lot of the ones sold at places like Walmart or Autozone are not really good quality, they are more for janitorial and high-volume use where a soft pile isn't really necessary. They are decent for interiors as there is not a lot of easily-scratchable surfaces, (well at least on our trucks, the newer ones... don't get me started). I usually order them through my supplier or through the autobody parts store near my work.

Plus, as you probably know, never use fabric softener sheets when drying them. The fibers and oils from the sheets get stuck in the microfibers and they become essentially useless as they won't absorb anything. And as usual, wash in cold water with only other microfiber towels, and dry on low or an air-only setting if your dryer has it.

Edit: just saw the post on your wheels, don't know how I didn't see it before... Ummm, yeah, if you want them stock-looking, you're gonna have to refinish them. If you go that route and decide to have a shop do them, make sure they media blast ALL surfaces of the wheel, including the inner area and spokes, as that's where a lot of shops overlook and will only do the faces. This leads to clearcoat failure from the inside area of the wheel to the outside, especially if you use acid-based wheel cleaners (which I don't endorse using). The shop I recommend people for bodywork charged me around $100 for each wheel (the Tundra 18s for my summer tires) and they look brand new. You can always refinish them yourself by sanding, playing carding the rim around the tire, and spray canning as well!
 
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Great info thank you.

The 16 year old body paint I'm working on has never had chips taken care of, so many have rust in them. I'm using micro grinding stones and cutting bits, along with a 30X micro scope to inspect each chip. I grind off paint and metal following any rust that has worked it's way under the paint. I keep grinding until I get clean edges (no rust) all the way around.

Is it necessary to use a primer before the base coat (pearl two part) paint?
If so which primer is best?
What is the best way to apply clear coat?

You only indicate sanding and buffing as needed after clear coat. Is sanding or buffing after base coat then again after top coat, prior to clear coat advisable?

DA buffing using correction compound help remove light rust and grim. This helped too reveal what needs grinding out. Not this job, but in some cases I've found pin hold chips with rust spot the size of a quarter hidden underneath.
looks as I've just a little more rust to get out of this spot:
Rock chips 008 2.webp

Most are not this large but here is one shot of 4 chips.
Pre paint preped 6 chips (2).webp
I can see just a bit more rust going under paint here in upper right side of this large spot, will need more micro grinding
Pre paint preped 16 cips (2).webp


Here's a few of the grinding & cutting bits I'm using:
Rock chips 078.webp

This works well for a hard to reach spot:
Rock chips 070.webp
 
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Funny you mentioned Walmart micro fiber, as I just bought some at Walmart about two hours ago. These are their priciest one's and seem thick. What do you think should I return or keep?
002.webp
 
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