- Thread starter
- #41
Any play twisting or latterly and it's no good. Inspection from pictures, would be of undercarriage it came off of. No grease build-up on undercarriage/frame and I'd pass.
Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 2001LC
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Perfect, thanks for that! I'll just hope to find a driveshaft or I guess save up for a new one.
- Thread starter
- #43
Coolant system Repairs and PM.
So while posting engine stuff, to keep some continuity to thread. I'll show all work on coolant system next!
Once first batch of parts in, I got to work. My inspection just keep getting better, and as such so does my parts ordering kung-ful! HAHA...
Some hose in the pan are for front of engine "oil cooler hoses"
No record in over 350K miles in Lexus history of heater Tee's replacement.
R&R heater tees. Hoses of in back of engine were okay, so I did not replace those.
I'm always careful to fish out broken pieces of old plastic tees form hoses. But this time as I assembled the broken piece like a puzzle. I could see a small piece was missing. So I got out my 12V pump and back flush with distilled water.
Stock footage from a blown 2UZ-fe VVT of flushing heater cores with 12V pump.
Unfortunately the missing piece of brittle old plastic from heater tees did not show up in the flush bucket. Oh well! It's small and brittle. It will likely just disintegrate or get chew up, I hope!...eeek
So I buttoned up the tees. Since I was not replacing hoses, I was very careful to place clamp in same position and orientation as they been in last 350K miles. Toyota FSM is clear on this. Clamps must be put back the same as they came off. Leaks~ 50% of time if not.
I did want to get a good flushing of block done too. So I drained the block peacocks and radiator and filled with distilled water. Run up engine to operating temp, cool a bit, and drain. Repeat and repeat and until clear d-water running out. Still no little piece of plastic.. Oh well!
I like doing thermostat at same time as tees or radiator. So I pulled lower hose from the water inlet goose neck so I could inspect goose neck. I polished old water inlet first to get off crusty old crud, which revealed pitting was bad enough to warrant replacement.
Found goose neck pitted from electrolysis so I replace it, with a good one.
OH what do you know. My missing heater tee piece of plastic sitting behind the thermostat. Eureka!
Call me lucky....
So while posting engine stuff, to keep some continuity to thread. I'll show all work on coolant system next!
Once first batch of parts in, I got to work. My inspection just keep getting better, and as such so does my parts ordering kung-ful! HAHA...
Some hose in the pan are for front of engine "oil cooler hoses"
No record in over 350K miles in Lexus history of heater Tee's replacement.
R&R heater tees. Hoses of in back of engine were okay, so I did not replace those.
I'm always careful to fish out broken pieces of old plastic tees form hoses. But this time as I assembled the broken piece like a puzzle. I could see a small piece was missing. So I got out my 12V pump and back flush with distilled water.
Stock footage from a blown 2UZ-fe VVT of flushing heater cores with 12V pump.
Unfortunately the missing piece of brittle old plastic from heater tees did not show up in the flush bucket. Oh well! It's small and brittle. It will likely just disintegrate or get chew up, I hope!...eeek
So I buttoned up the tees. Since I was not replacing hoses, I was very careful to place clamp in same position and orientation as they been in last 350K miles. Toyota FSM is clear on this. Clamps must be put back the same as they came off. Leaks~ 50% of time if not.
I did want to get a good flushing of block done too. So I drained the block peacocks and radiator and filled with distilled water. Run up engine to operating temp, cool a bit, and drain. Repeat and repeat and until clear d-water running out. Still no little piece of plastic.. Oh well!
I like doing thermostat at same time as tees or radiator. So I pulled lower hose from the water inlet goose neck so I could inspect goose neck. I polished old water inlet first to get off crusty old crud, which revealed pitting was bad enough to warrant replacement.
Found goose neck pitted from electrolysis so I replace it, with a good one.
OH what do you know. My missing heater tee piece of plastic sitting behind the thermostat. Eureka!
Call me lucky....
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- Thread starter
- #44
Thermostat & O-ring seal R&R continued
I like to place rag under plus a plastic bag first on drive belt before pulling thermostat and I just leave it there until done with job. Just to keep coolant from dripping on the belt and such..
I hand tight nut evenly. The check to make sure O-ring did not slip out of position.
Then I Torqued to 13ft-lbf and done. So sweet and easy!
I like to place rag under plus a plastic bag first on drive belt before pulling thermostat and I just leave it there until done with job. Just to keep coolant from dripping on the belt and such..
I hand tight nut evenly. The check to make sure O-ring did not slip out of position.
Then I Torqued to 13ft-lbf and done. So sweet and easy!
Just to clarify- if you don't see any grease build-up, you'd pass? I grease my shaft (
) and needle bearings with each oil change, wipe off the excess, and still get a layer of grease spun off on to the frame. Is this an issue or are you noting a lack of residue as a lack of maintenance?- Thread starter
- #46
Yes. The grease is usually not wiped off. So a lot of residue is leftover on frame above grease points. It's just clues, to generally help when buying over the internet..Just to clarify- if you don't see any grease build-up, you'd pass? I grease my shaft (
- Thread starter
- #47
Not much residue above this spider lube point, but some. W/350K miles, slide yoke, seal and spiders are fine.
Dry on this other rig w/270K miles. Seal on shaft was shot and spider needed replacing.
Dry on this other rig w/270K miles. Seal on shaft was shot and spider needed replacing.
- Thread starter
- #48
Oil coolant & bypass hoses, front. R&R.
History showed Lexus Dealership replace oil coolant hoses ~3 years ago. (~80k km ago). I found them leaking again. On close inspection I noticed the hoses & clamps were not OEM. I found that strange, seeings how job was done a Lexus Dealership. But as I though about it, not so strange. As mechanic would likely have to wait days for parts to come in. Changing hoses with aftermarket cut to fit, would like be in inch not metric. So OEM clamps would not fit well.
I pulled the hoses and pipe, cleaned up and replace all hoses and clamps with OEM. Problem solve for next ~250k miles or ~17 years.
Good lighting is key to inspecting.
Flashlight and mirror are staples of inspection tools.
Pipe runs on LH front of engine. Original leak was probably related to pipes removal during Timing Belt job. Anytime an old hose is removed, leaks are a concern.
Picture is same as parts shown a few post above. I love the way Toyota has clamp clipped open. Slid clamp on hose and pull off clip, done!
History showed Lexus Dealership replace oil coolant hoses ~3 years ago. (~80k km ago). I found them leaking again. On close inspection I noticed the hoses & clamps were not OEM. I found that strange, seeings how job was done a Lexus Dealership. But as I though about it, not so strange. As mechanic would likely have to wait days for parts to come in. Changing hoses with aftermarket cut to fit, would like be in inch not metric. So OEM clamps would not fit well.
I pulled the hoses and pipe, cleaned up and replace all hoses and clamps with OEM. Problem solve for next ~250k miles or ~17 years.
Good lighting is key to inspecting.
Flashlight and mirror are staples of inspection tools.
Pipe runs on LH front of engine. Original leak was probably related to pipes removal during Timing Belt job. Anytime an old hose is removed, leaks are a concern.
Picture is same as parts shown a few post above. I love the way Toyota has clamp clipped open. Slid clamp on hose and pull off clip, done!
- Thread starter
- #49
Radiator, hoses upper & lower hoses along with transmission cooler hoses R&R
Water outlet goose neck, had a build up of crud, like inlet goose neck. After cleaning I saw mild pitting, but not as bad as return/inlet goose neck. So water bypass joint front goes on my future list, and it's outlet goose neck will just be watched for now.
The radiator was actually replaced much later, as I wanted to see if it would blow, which it did not. These systems with good cap (unless over-heating) max at ~ 15lb PSI. So they don't usually blow. The heater tees probably speak loudest to this theory of mine. Bad Tees, you just need reach over and pull on lightly, and they break and disconnect from hose. If normal operating temp created high enough pressure to blow tee's in this condition, a radiator with bad plastic would go very fast.
Check out the plastic goose-neck on inlet side of this radiator. I could have crush into piece with my bare hands. Top of radiator is very light and cracking also. It took a lot of care to not damage inlet nipple just getting hose to release (twisting lightly with channel-locks).
This radiator is toast for sure. Not one I take far from home. But I'd did drive locally without much fear of a rupture, spewed coolant everywhere.
Eventually is was out with the old radiator.
Water outlet goose neck, had a build up of crud, like inlet goose neck. After cleaning I saw mild pitting, but not as bad as return/inlet goose neck. So water bypass joint front goes on my future list, and it's outlet goose neck will just be watched for now.
The radiator was actually replaced much later, as I wanted to see if it would blow, which it did not. These systems with good cap (unless over-heating) max at ~ 15lb PSI. So they don't usually blow. The heater tees probably speak loudest to this theory of mine. Bad Tees, you just need reach over and pull on lightly, and they break and disconnect from hose. If normal operating temp created high enough pressure to blow tee's in this condition, a radiator with bad plastic would go very fast.
Check out the plastic goose-neck on inlet side of this radiator. I could have crush into piece with my bare hands. Top of radiator is very light and cracking also. It took a lot of care to not damage inlet nipple just getting hose to release (twisting lightly with channel-locks).
This radiator is toast for sure. Not one I take far from home. But I'd did drive locally without much fear of a rupture, spewed coolant everywhere.
Eventually is was out with the old radiator.
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- Thread starter
- #50
Which radiator to use!
I've been using the CSF G1000130859CSF Radiators for a few years now. Ever since my Toyota Dealership wholesale parts guy, told me the shop uses for customer cars unless OEM is specified (rarely). They fit perfect and can I buy locally at Advanced Auto. So saves $400 off cost of USA spec OEM and no shipping damage. There is more labor involved to do the job, than with OEM spec. In that they don't have foam attached. I just pull old side bracket with foam attached. Bolt those to my new radiator. Then I cut top foam off old radiator with a razor blade, held up up tight to plastic of radiator. Then I glue that foam strip onto top/front of new radiator with FIPG, which works well. I let stand a few hours with weight on the foam, before installing radiator. Will see if FIPG stands the test of time.
Radiator Side brackets installed
Weight on top of foam, for a few hour to give glue/FIPG time to setup.
It takes ~1/2 hour to swap out the foam & brackets. Save $400 off USA spec and $200 off Mexican spec OEM radiators, which have foam attached.
I've been using the CSF G1000130859CSF Radiators for a few years now. Ever since my Toyota Dealership wholesale parts guy, told me the shop uses for customer cars unless OEM is specified (rarely). They fit perfect and can I buy locally at Advanced Auto. So saves $400 off cost of USA spec OEM and no shipping damage. There is more labor involved to do the job, than with OEM spec. In that they don't have foam attached. I just pull old side bracket with foam attached. Bolt those to my new radiator. Then I cut top foam off old radiator with a razor blade, held up up tight to plastic of radiator. Then I glue that foam strip onto top/front of new radiator with FIPG, which works well. I let stand a few hours with weight on the foam, before installing radiator. Will see if FIPG stands the test of time.
Radiator Side brackets installed
Weight on top of foam, for a few hour to give glue/FIPG time to setup.
It takes ~1/2 hour to swap out the foam & brackets. Save $400 off USA spec and $200 off Mexican spec OEM radiators, which have foam attached.
- Thread starter
- #51
New radiator, Cap and 4 hoses, along with LH transmission coolant hose bracket!
New hose is also a good idea with new radiator. The old hoses were very soft, which is not good. Coolant hoses should be firm. In this case transmission cooler those had been re-clamp with screw clamps. Those hoses were very soft also Fact that they'd been re-clamped, indicated a they leak. I also found the bracket that attaches the LH cooler hose, to stabilize it, was missing. This lack of stabilizing bracket is likely the reason it leaking in first place. I've seen the coolant hose nipple on radiator come loose, due to this bracket being missing. So I replaced bracket as well, and put back on all OEM clamps & new OEM hoses that attach to radiator.
I sometime condition old and new hoses before install. Lexol seem to work nicely, no leaks ever.
In with foam attached.
So many replacement radiators I see don't have the foam or use the old radiator cap and thermostat. That is not best practice for sure..
New hose is also a good idea with new radiator. The old hoses were very soft, which is not good. Coolant hoses should be firm. In this case transmission cooler those had been re-clamp with screw clamps. Those hoses were very soft also Fact that they'd been re-clamped, indicated a they leak. I also found the bracket that attaches the LH cooler hose, to stabilize it, was missing. This lack of stabilizing bracket is likely the reason it leaking in first place. I've seen the coolant hose nipple on radiator come loose, due to this bracket being missing. So I replaced bracket as well, and put back on all OEM clamps & new OEM hoses that attach to radiator.
I sometime condition old and new hoses before install. Lexol seem to work nicely, no leaks ever.
In with foam attached.
So many replacement radiators I see don't have the foam or use the old radiator cap and thermostat. That is not best practice for sure..
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- Thread starter
- #52
Fan shroud, broken plastic bracket, repair!
Stuff seems to work very good. It's fast and can be drilled, sanded or paint the second after powered (bottle two) applied..
I've only used for about a year. On bumpers, bumper plastic brackets of non Toyota, air box hose nipples and more. So far everything has held and held up against force when applied to part.
I find these upper bracket of shroud busted all the time. I've used this clue on them all for last year. Love it. Best if shroud pulled off, but have done in place.
Stuff seems to work very good. It's fast and can be drilled, sanded or paint the second after powered (bottle two) applied..
I've only used for about a year. On bumpers, bumper plastic brackets of non Toyota, air box hose nipples and more. So far everything has held and held up against force when applied to part.
I find these upper bracket of shroud busted all the time. I've used this clue on them all for last year. Love it. Best if shroud pulled off, but have done in place.
- Thread starter
- #53
Battery, Clamps and area clean up.
Batteries get a build-up of acid crud on top if they have caps. The acid crud needs neutralizing before washing the battery or area. If just washed the acid runs down and sets on metal parts. It eats the paint exposing metal. Eventually this rust.
Baking soda sprinkled on a damp battery. Damp so baking soda stick and is activated in place. Then I sprinkled baking soda with additional water, turning baking soda into liquid. Some pre-mix baking soda with water, then pour over battery. Either works fine. Now I power wash without fear of spreading acid.
Not surprising I found some bare metal under battery tray, very common. I'll come back another day (paint day) with POR-15 and paint area.
For now just cleaned up the area and repair a broken bolt by drilling it out. Acid residue from above weakened and froze the bolt in the nut of fender skirt. It snapped off as tried to remove bolt, while working on windshield washer tank, pump & motor shielding. Using a center punch to set a start point for a very small drill bit I started with. Once small hole drill in center of bolt. I increased size of bit progressively. I kept increasing drill bit size until almost no threads remained, in the factory nut, which is secured/welded to the fender skirt. Then I ran a thread correcting tool through the nut, which removed remnants of bolt threads from nut. Good as new.
Battery itself was not take a charge well. It was fairly new battery, but lost it charge as it sat too long dead. Charging it I could not get to 13V +, which a new battery will take or show over 13V when charged. It was Lexus installed and still had some warranty remaining. So I drove Garybird to Kuni Lexus to get new battery. Two hrs and a few latte's & biscotti latter, I had a new Lexus battery. What a pain, Lexus requires I take battery, even without the vehicle (Emerald) through service center lane for warranty. Good part the battery warranty follows VIN#.
Battery clamps were shot. Toyota sell the positive Land Cruiser clamp. Which makes R&R fast and easy.
Batteries get a build-up of acid crud on top if they have caps. The acid crud needs neutralizing before washing the battery or area. If just washed the acid runs down and sets on metal parts. It eats the paint exposing metal. Eventually this rust.
Baking soda sprinkled on a damp battery. Damp so baking soda stick and is activated in place. Then I sprinkled baking soda with additional water, turning baking soda into liquid. Some pre-mix baking soda with water, then pour over battery. Either works fine. Now I power wash without fear of spreading acid.
Not surprising I found some bare metal under battery tray, very common. I'll come back another day (paint day) with POR-15 and paint area.
For now just cleaned up the area and repair a broken bolt by drilling it out. Acid residue from above weakened and froze the bolt in the nut of fender skirt. It snapped off as tried to remove bolt, while working on windshield washer tank, pump & motor shielding. Using a center punch to set a start point for a very small drill bit I started with. Once small hole drill in center of bolt. I increased size of bit progressively. I kept increasing drill bit size until almost no threads remained, in the factory nut, which is secured/welded to the fender skirt. Then I ran a thread correcting tool through the nut, which removed remnants of bolt threads from nut. Good as new.
Battery itself was not take a charge well. It was fairly new battery, but lost it charge as it sat too long dead. Charging it I could not get to 13V +, which a new battery will take or show over 13V when charged. It was Lexus installed and still had some warranty remaining. So I drove Garybird to Kuni Lexus to get new battery. Two hrs and a few latte's & biscotti latter, I had a new Lexus battery. What a pain, Lexus requires I take battery, even without the vehicle (Emerald) through service center lane for warranty. Good part the battery warranty follows VIN#.
Battery clamps were shot. Toyota sell the positive Land Cruiser clamp. Which makes R&R fast and easy.
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- Thread starter
- #54
Battery negative clamp was trashed/cracked.
Neg clamp is not available from Toyota. I've since seen someone in mud found a alternate, Toyota model (Camry IIRC) does has have PN # for the neg clamp.
I used an Auto craft clamp at the time. Modified it to easily fit cable.
As always. I cleaned post and clamp and greased the post. This keeps them from oxidizing. Oxidation increase resistance and reduce battery effectiveness. Stock footage.
Neg clamp is not available from Toyota. I've since seen someone in mud found a alternate, Toyota model (Camry IIRC) does has have PN # for the neg clamp.
I used an Auto craft clamp at the time. Modified it to easily fit cable.
As always. I cleaned post and clamp and greased the post. This keeps them from oxidizing. Oxidation increase resistance and reduce battery effectiveness. Stock footage.
neilsen100
GOLD Star
@2001LC why White Lithium grease and not dielectric grease in this application?
- Thread starter
- #56
I've been using since a teenager, as was what everyone used "way" back then. It was and still is highly recommend today. This tube of White Lithium seems bottomless, never runs out. When it's gone, I may use Dielectric or better yet is one of the spray cans of battery post protector. Even Vaseline works in a pinch. Just don't clamp on post dry, or oxidation will form.
The one I will never use again, is the CRC battery protector (CRC BP) The stuff is not to be sprayed on the post. Just on clamp after install, and will changes color when time to clean battery & post again. If it gets between post and clamp, it acts much like oxidation and inhibits current flow. 100 series, especially the newer electronics do not like low voltage. I just had one that I used the CRC BP, in which that red spray junk leached in between post and clamp. I got engine vibration and unrelated to battery CEL. I cleared the DTC's as I re-cleaned and charged the battery. Reason battery lost charge was, as alternator charged the battery, the CRC BP increased resistance and battery never fully charged above 12.4V. Then eventually voltage drop to 2.5V just sitting a few weeks. I nearly order thousand dollars in parts, just because of low voltage from a new battery. After getting charged up over 13V, I let the 100 series set without starting to see if battery would loose charge (parasitic drain), it did not. CEL (DTC's) have not returned and running engine smooth again.
How many have replaced battery or alternator just due to a bad connection at battery post... many I'll bet!
________________________________________________ ON with the restore & PM._______________________
MAF & Throttle body cleaning and Air filter R&R.
I also disconnect battery neg post for 20 minutes, while I clean MAF to reset ECM.
MAF cleaning is easy. Just un-clip the wire housing block, remove two screws and spray clean the sensors inside the MAF. The sensors look like wires and care must be taken to not get oil on them, nor touch with fingers or anything. I just use CRC or BG MAF spray cleaner, then reinstall.
Throttle body and butterfly get gummed up. Clean insures proper air flow.
I try not to spray any more cleaner than needed on shaft of buttery. It's something @AimCOtaco once said. He became concerned that cleaning fluid may entered through shaft getting into gears & motor inside T-body. That this may be causing motor and gear failure. The 99-98 TB seemed to have more failures. But out of abundance of caution, I use spray sparingly and often spray onto rag and just wipe TB.
Stock footage.
Air filter was dirty so naturally I replaced it. The one think I'm running into in about 30% of air filter inspection, is: The rubber seal around filter is off it groove at one or to spots. This happens if care is not taken during install. The rubber seal gets pinched between box and lid out of it's groove and becomes damaged. This can lead to air leak of drity/dusty air into engine. Not Good!
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- Thread starter
- #59
Idler pulley Drive belt (AKA serpentine belt)
Inspecting
Stock footage.
Always nice to quit up the front of engine with new bearings. New pulley OEM or aftermarket, either do the job.
Toyota OEM idler pulley w/bearing last the longest.
Inspecting
Stock footage.
Always nice to quit up the front of engine with new bearings. New pulley OEM or aftermarket, either do the job.
Toyota OEM idler pulley w/bearing last the longest.
- Thread starter
- #60
Tensioner bearing can just be replace for a big savings.
Provided tensioner has good spring tension, I just press out old bearing from pulley, and press in a new. Most any parts store will have the replacement bearing.
Pressing out old bearing and having with you to match up isn't a bad idea.
I've used bearings:
Advance Auto; National 203-FF.
NAPA 6203-2RSJ is good bearing.
Provided tensioner has good spring tension, I just press out old bearing from pulley, and press in a new. Most any parts store will have the replacement bearing.
Pressing out old bearing and having with you to match up isn't a bad idea.
I've used bearings:
Advance Auto; National 203-FF.
NAPA 6203-2RSJ is good bearing.
