Scored 2011 LC W/79K OMG CLEAN (2012 missing link) (1 Viewer)

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I really found a very sweet well kept 2011 LC (technology of 2012, build date Oct 2011 see post #2) with only 79K mile (HWY mile) fully loaded for my first 200 series. Found this back in January, but I'm now sadly getting it ready to sell. I would have sold sooner as never meant to keep, but it's been so nice to have around. Seems each new rig I find, gets hard and hard for me to part with.:cry:


Picked this one up for a temporary DD as @dace voit was buying The Black Knight (TBK) from me and The Unicorn was in the shop with blown engine. This was going to leave me without anything to drive. I had 5 rigs (Two 200 series near Aspen CO and three 100 series between CO front range and TX) on my short list. This one rose to the top!

Dace was so helpful in meeting me on the HWY at I-70 & US 40, driving up to Glenwood Spring, CO. where we closed our deal. Thanks again Dace! As he drove off in TBK, seller of this 200 series meet with me for inspection and closing in GS, CO.

Three hours later I was on I-70 eastbound driving a 200 for the first time with clean title in hand.
Can you believe this was January 2018 in Vail? Where's the snow.
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So sweet with power to spare, so much so I had to set cruise control going up passes to avoid speeding. MPG near 20, could this be a "LAND CRUISER" wow.
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Some of you may have seen postings when I was inspecting this, my first 200 series. I spent a good deal of time on mud (world's greatest resource) searching on for what to look for. What are the issues seen over the years that I should focus on with the 200 series, beyond a general inspection. Which I'm happy to report this 2011 did NOT have even one of these known reported issues.:)

I feel by the time Toyota built the 2011, they had the bugs worked out for the most. This is generally the case with any manufacture in 3rd or 4th year of a production cycle. In any case this one checked out free from the list of leak and known issues.

I've inspected/worked on many 100 series and have developed a pretty good eye spotting issues fast. In Fact I've yet to meet anyone or shop that can find as much as I can during pre purchase inspection. Even so I always find more issue on post inspection, then even more as I work through restoring.

This 200 series has really surprised me mechanically. I've had for longer than any other restore project and only found one (sensor) issue not discover in Pre or post inspection. Which is one clearance sonar sensor in LH front bumper. Sonar was turned off during my pre & post (didn't know it had) so I didn't notice LH front is too sensitive. @Ali FJ80 mention he had same issue, ended up replacing the sensor to clear it up. I'll get more into what else I've found mechanically later in thread.

As for cosmetics I don't think interior could be any better.
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Body & paint is a 9 of 1-10 scale. I should be able to bring to a 9.8. It has about 1/2 dozed small dings PDR repair can easily correct, a few mild scratches my DA buffet will soften/correct. The chrome has staining that should buff out nicely. It has a few rock chip that I'll touch up with paint. Touch paints up means, although just a drop, can't be called a 10.
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Index:
Inspecting; Page 1 post #1-9 and Pre Purchase Inspection, Post Inspection & PM of Toyota or Lexus 200 series
Oil dip stick O-ring leak repair; Page 1 post #10-
Gear lube; rear differential & transfer case flush. Page 1 post #15-16
Differential (front) drain plug; Page 1 post #16 and Any tips to remove front diff drain plug?
Oil filter change; Page 1 post #19
Propeller shaft slide yoke & spider joint lubing; Page 1 post #20, 22 & 29
Air filter and inspecting vacuum lines; Page 2 post #30
Battery, MAF sensor & throttle body cleaning; Page 2 post #34
Power Steering flush & bleeding; Page 2 post #36, 38
Missing molding clips under hood; Page 3 post #41
Brake fluid flush; Page 3 post #42-43
Brake fluid topping & testing; Page 3 post #44
E-brake inspection & Adjusting shoes; Page 3 post #45.
Sonar sensor (front) for parking assist; Page 3 post # 46-53
Windshield molding replacement with paint chip repair: Page 3 post #54-58
Cleaning debris traps that produce cabin odor; Page 3 post #59
Rain gutter molding Page 4 post #64
Name plate (rear) replacement; Page 4 post #65-66
Cleaning up interior; Page 4 post 67-69
Clear bra removal; Page 4 post #70
Rock chip repair; Page 4 post #71
Paint less dent repair Paintless Dent Repair Denver | Auto Hail Damage Repair : Page 4 post #72
After clay bar, correcting compound & waxing pictures; Page 4 post #73.
My thought on the 200 series; Page 4 post #74
 
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Interest MFD. Makes it a 2012 technologically.

Looking in the FSM I just notice reference to some components is MFD of 08/11 - forward. The TIS shows 08/10 - 01/2012 range for 2011, normally 200 series starts/ends in August. It then breaks the year up in some components to 08/10 -08/11 then adds the additional MFD date 08/11- forward. Is the missing 2012. The next entry is 2013 which has MFD date of 01/12-08/13, normally MFD start would be Aug 2012.

VIN door plate a.jpg

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Joined
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Great looking truck. I can't wait to see your progress with it!

SUBBBBEEDDD
Thanks guys!

My GF really loves this one, in fact the most out of all Land Cruiser I've had. Admittedly it has really grown on me. But when working on Land Cruisers, my passion is still the 100 series, time may change that who-knows as my knowledge and tool base expand.

I love the cooler in the console, so cool (HAHA) when picking up some on salmon at WF or for long drive to keep cool drink at hand.

NAV screens gives a great view of rear, that even I can see.

Speaker phone works great and BT has great range

All the little things we want or that some have customized into the 100 series are incorporated and more. Like DLRL access on or off, AC on or off all form the touch of a button on NAV screen, we either can't do or need Tech Stream to do in the 100 series.

Third row seat that actually clips in firmly and securely, no wearing out the little strap to fall apart.

Tool kit storage in read lower hatch and access to spare tire crank with rear lower hatch down brilliant!

Chain to lower and raise spare can't fray as the cables did in 100 series.

110 watt outlet built in. USB build in. Wipers with rain sensor. Radar for proximity warning.

I'm not sure I've yet discovered all the bells and whistles "there are a lot", the list seems to go on an on!

The power plant, is just that, a power plant. But to get better MPG on HWY with all the add weight, is amazing.

Interior like seats look more durable, but only time will tell.

Beefy exhaust system surely gives better breathing with just the right back pressure.

The frame is a thing of beauty, one (as I) might say it's sexy with curves in all the right places. Definitely looks firmer than the 100 series!
Rust free so much the better as I'm sure every wrencher would agree
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Anyway after pre inspection and driving I started my post inspection the same way I always do. First is removing all shielding (did I say how much I like the toolless engine cover) then with camera, mirror and flashlight in hand, I look everywhere I can. Number one I look for leaks before cleaning, then missing or broken parts and rust. I also look for clues like grease above propeller shaft to indicate lubing has be done regularly or tool marks on drain bolts or new washer/gaskets to indicate fluid flushing. Many clues are best seen before cleaning.

Here are the few clues I found pre & post of leaks.

This small grease spot did not reappear after cleaning. This indicate just some grease or oil slung onto transfer case. Like from lubing propeller shaft spiders or slide yoke. So this is a good clue one might say.
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This is dipstick tube gunk build up, was from leaking dipstick O-ring at pan.
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Indication are this leak from dipstick was old, as it traveled and drip to shielding
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As it turned out I had only the one leak anywhere on this rig SWEET RIGHT! which was from dipstick O-ring. A tight build I'd say!
 
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This was at front spider which is most often overlooked or neglected due to difficult area to lube. Others lube points also showed lubing clues, SWEET

Was happy to see these grease clue indicated at least some lubing took place as PM
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Leaks are something I like to address right away. Even though these oil dipstick leak are so minor they never hit garage floor, I still like to fix.

First is cleaning this gunk off and then verify leak point, which was done.
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Clean before pulling stick out is also important as we don't want sand or and grim falling into pan area. The hole itself did need a little more clean once dip stick guide tube out.
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Getting to area is very easy with tire removed along with just a two of the inner splash guard fastener removed.
I remove just the front top and bottom fasteners from rear splash guard.
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A little oil rubbed onto new O-ring insure it slips in easily.
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Only one 10mm bolt holds on the dipstick guide tube. It just below top end of dipstick tube where dipstick feed in.
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I use a piece of tape to help wedge the bolt head into my socket.
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Interesting the old O-ring (factory installed) was knicked. Although my first on a 5.7L, i've done many on the 4.7L and this was first time I've seen a damaged O-ring. They must have moved the cam tower assembly guy at the Toyota engine plant to dipSticks!
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Took me longer to post this than replace the O-ring.
 
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blatant

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I feel by the time Toyota built the 2011, they had the bugs worked out for the most. This is generally the case with any manufacture in 3rd or 4th year of a production cycle. In any case this one checked out free from the list of leak and known issues.

They did not have them worked out, and they are getting ready to surface. Cam towers / timing cover, heat exchanger leak ( valley plate )radiator, starter etc. Just search, as you already mentioned. Despite low miles, you'll be on deck. After which. You'll be set, but it's coming. Seems it's time, not mileage.

Congrats on a beast of a truck with the simpliest amount of 200 qizmos, a plus!
 
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They did not have them worked out, and they are getting ready to surface. Cam towers / timing cover, heat exchanger leak ( valley plate )radiator, starter etc. Just search, as you already mentioned. Despite low miles, you'll be on deck. After which. You'll be set, but it's coming. Seems it's time, not mileage.

Congrats on a beast of a truck with the simpliest amount of 200 qizmos, a plus!
Thanks for the "congrats"

I have done searches (not my that I'm any good at) and see some had issue beyond 08 & 09 with these leaks. Whether corrected manufacturing process, they keep moving the guy with "greasy fingers" to different jobs or it's just production run before his finger licking chicken lunch who knows. But issue seem less common in later years. Either way, I was very happy I found a tight rig :) Saves me a ton of work!

It's not likely to leak anytime soon. Those that developed a leak later, I'll bet were leaking all along, unnoticed until later years/miles. I've inspected more 200 since this first one. In those Toyota or Lexus Dealer inspected and gave clean bill of health (no Leaks). Guess what, they were leaking just not hitting the ground.

In the 60 & 70's we didn't even like power windows, just more stuff too fail. This being and LC is fully loaded as far as I know. But it doesn't have as many motors like the LX, which is fine by me (simpler is good). But it has so many gizmos I keep finding more. Just yesterday I noticed second row seat move on slides, very nice.

I just spotted these in each cubby hole of third row seats, What are they: A sensor, clip or what ????.
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I think those are the rear thermostats for the 4 zone climate.
Thanks, it was my thinking as well.



I've been flushing fluids in this 11LC and feel am really wasting a lot of good fluid. I mean the stuff is really coming out nice looking. This was HWY miles use for sure as PO stated. But only way to know is to flush, oh well:clap:

Look at the color, this is some nice looking used gear lube, its a mix of all three cases. Looks more like under 20K miles than 79K.
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Interating the FSM states with transfer case; to fill slowly then wait 5 minutes to recheck and top. With differentials they recommend driving then rechecking and top. I've tried both wait 15 minutes (I like longer time period of 15 min to settle into pockets) then rechecking and repeat wait and top. I also tried driving and rechecking. I did not need more added after driving if I did settle method first.
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As Always I replace washer/gasket and torque every plug to spec.
Rear diff ~4.5 US qts, torque 36ft-lbf
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Transfer case is a PITA to remove about 13 bolts just to get at drain plugs so just takes more time.
~1.59 US qts, torque 27ft-lbf
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Front differentials has its own challenges dealing with drain plug. Known to be a PITA.:mad:
~2.1 US qts, torque 29ft-lbf
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What manual is that, and where can I get one?

TIA
My "solution" it's from the Macgyver school of Get It Done, manuals free but school is life long.;)

The FSM pages I pictured are from the 2010 LC FSM I purchase off ebay. My understanding is 2010 or 2011 is last year hard copy published, No MAS!
 
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Oil & filter change was near due, so naturally I did as part of this baseline.

With the 200s it's necessary to pull section of skid plate to gain access to filter housing. Not as easy as the 100 series with its conveniently placed filter access hatch.

I did have issue with getting filter drain plug out. Seem last shop that replaced the filter, either didn't rub a little oil on O-ring and/or didn't use a torque wrench.

First attempt to remove this drain plug and whole housing turned.
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Macgyver school came through again to get stuck plug out of filter cap housing!
My new filter tool came in hand to hold filter housing while turning drain plug out. Using a 3/8: extension which fit up through the filter tool perfectly into drain plug, saving me from making a oily mess if I'd taken off housing without draining first.
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I made sure to oil new O-rings before adding filter and torquing in filter housing cap to 18ft-lbf and drain plug to 9ft-lbf. So next oil change Macquving won't be needed.;)
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No Oil & filter job is complet until propeller shafts are lubed in my "manual", wish more would read it!
Front spiders (not pictured) are a little difficult to get to. I found that by turning propeller shaft with grease zerks facing to the inside (center of vehicle), I could get both at same time.

Very important to wipe the grease fitting before attaching grease gun. Or else we'll pump in dirt & grime.

When filling sleeve yoke (AKA slide yoke) we keep lubing until slide yoke begins to move. This a is change from previous recommendation until grease flows out the seal clean.
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We fill spider universal joints until clean grease is seen coming out.
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