Scare me off of this build 79 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 8, 2020
Threads
112
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415
Location
WA
Hi, new here. I'm assuming folks have probably seen this 79 FJ40 in pieces in WA. Im about ready to put cash down and pick up this weekend. I'm fairly confident it's all there minus one door glass, and pop out glass - and the missing sheetmetal due to rust.

I've built FJ40s in the past but this is a huge project starting from the ground up. I'm assuming i can have a rolling frame with engine and trans mounred in a few months. After that, the hard work begins - rust. Looks like all doors are hammerd at the bottom.

I'd say my biggest concern is the rust on the tub. 79s sound like a terrible year for rust. Looks like seller has a lot of the replacement sheetmetal but im expecting more will be needed.

If someone were looking for a project, would you let the rust scare you off? Sounds like it was running and driving before the tear down. Am I crazy? I'm almost assuming the seller may be a member on this site.
 
really depends on price, for me it may be more valuable as parts.
 
If you like metalwork and are good at it, go for it.

Otherwise, it may suck the life out of you and push you into working on Heeps :dead:
 
If you like metalwork and are good at it, go for it.

Otherwise, it may suck the life out of you and push you into working on Heeps :dead:
Not going to lie, new to metal work. Have done light fabrication.
 
yeah depends how skilled you are and the price

Are you just going to get burned out like the last guy and not finish. So many "projects" end up that way
 
Not going to lie, new to metal work. Have done light fabrication.

Assuming you already bought the project, I would carefully select some to do myself and have the more complicated stuff done by someone more skilled. Contact a place like TorFab and ask for a referral, or maybe ask a couple of the restoration guys on Mud ( @thecrazygreek comes to mind).
 
Seems like a lot for a rig "in pieces" that needs a ton of bodywork. Everything might not be there?

Similar but different, I bought my BJ74 with the engine partly disassembled, and it was a lot of work finding out exactly how some parts fit and went back together. A whole FJ40 (granted much easier to find out where stuff goes) could be a pain.
 
That's a lot of money for a stack of parts.
Even if they are all there, in what condition?
Axles and brakes have complete rebuild kits, complete new bolt kit from SOR, lots of new sheetmetal sure there is more.
 
Axles and brakes have complete rebuild kits, complete new bolt kit from SOR, lots of new sheetmetal sure there is more.
I've watched someone rebuild an axle on youtube. I'm sure if I ever tried to do it myself, I'd first have to buy $300 in tools (at least), and even then it's questionable if I'd really want to use the axle afterwards.

And, I have done some welding before. I have had pro's show me how and offer tips. But I still suck. If I had a stack of new metal parts to fix all the issues on my FJ40's body, there would still be nothing fixed unless I hired someone. And it'll still need paint.

All this stuff might have cost that much when he bought it. But I generally avoid buying things from people who aren't expecting to have a big loss when they give up on a project like that.
 
I've watched someone rebuild an axle on youtube. I'm sure if I ever tried to do it myself, I'd first have to buy $300 in tools (at least), and even then it's questionable if I'd really want to use the axle afterwards.

And, I have done some welding before. I have had pro's show me how and offer tips. But I still suck. If I had a stack of new metal parts to fix all the issues on my FJ40's body, there would still be nothing fixed unless I hired someone. And it'll still need paint.

All this stuff might have cost that much when he bought it. But I generally avoid buying things from people who aren't expecting to have a big loss when they give up on a project like that.


You absolutely DON'T need $300 in tools to do a front axle rebuild. They can definitely make it easier, but I've rebuilt several axles and for some of them I had no special tools.

54mm socket - take a 2.5" ~2" exhaust pipe reducer "Shape" it around those spindle nuts (new or used), drill a hole through the side so you can put a long screwdriver or something to turn it. Boom, cheap and works and you don't care if you lose it.
The even cheaper way is the hammer/screwdriver. It works, I don't like it, but every land cruiser axle I have rebuilt, someone before me used that method.

You can use the old races to drive the new races in.

Pounding out old races, get a drift or punch...harbor freight works fine. Brass preferred.

Find a matching socket to pound that axle seal in if you don't want to spring for a seal driver.

Fish scale, I've only used one once, but the can be had from under $20. Maybe I'm old school, but my feel was right on to what the scale said it needed to be.

Seal puller, harbor freight, $8.

As for the bodywork, yeah I have a long ways to go before I tackle full on rust repair rebuilding a tub. Thats a lot of time/money.
 
I've watched someone rebuild an axle on youtube. I'm sure if I ever tried to do it myself, I'd first have to buy $300 in tools (at least), and even then it's questionable if I'd really want to use the axle afterwards.

And, I have done some welding before. I have had pro's show me how and offer tips. But I still suck. If I had a stack of new metal parts to fix all the issues on my FJ40's body, there would still be nothing fixed unless I hired someone. And it'll still need paint.

All this stuff might have cost that much when he bought it. But I generally avoid buying things from people who aren't expecting to have a big loss when they give up on a project like that.
You absolutely DON'T need $300 in tools to do a front axle rebuild. They can definitely make it easier, but I've rebuilt several axles and for some of them I had no special tools.

54mm socket - take a 2.5" ~2" exhaust pipe reducer "Shape" it around those spindle nuts (new or used), drill a hole through the side so you can put a long screwdriver or something to turn it. Boom, cheap and works and you don't care if you lose it.
The even cheaper way is the hammer/screwdriver. It works, I don't like it, but every land cruiser axle I have rebuilt, someone before me used that method.

You can use the old races to drive the new races in.

Pounding out old races, get a drift or punch...harbor freight works fine. Brass preferred.

Find a matching socket to pound that axle seal in if you don't want to spring for a seal driver.

Fish scale, I've only used one once, but the can be had from under $20. Maybe I'm old school, but my feel was right on to what the scale said it needed to be.

Seal puller, harbor freight, $8.

As for the bodywork, yeah I have a long ways to go before I tackle full on rust repair rebuilding a tub. Thats a lot of time/money.
I'm not overly concerned about the mechanical side of the house as I've done it before and have needed tools. I'm more concerned about body work and rust repair. Sounds like everyone is going to have their own opinion and risk confort level. These things even in it's current state dont stick around long from what I've seen.
 
You absolutely DON'T need $300 in tools to do a front axle rebuild. They can definitely make it easier, but I've rebuilt several axles and for some of them I had no special tools.

54mm socket - take a 2.5" ~2" exhaust pipe reducer "Shape" it around those spindle nuts (new or used), drill a hole through the side so you can put a long screwdriver or something to turn it. Boom, cheap and works and you don't care if you lose it.
The even cheaper way is the hammer/screwdriver. It works, I don't like it, but every land cruiser axle I have rebuilt, someone before me used that method.

You can use the old races to drive the new races in.

Pounding out old races, get a drift or punch...harbor freight works fine. Brass preferred.

Find a matching socket to pound that axle seal in if you don't want to spring for a seal driver.

Fish scale, I've only used one once, but the can be had from under $20. Maybe I'm old school, but my feel was right on to what the scale said it needed to be.

Seal puller, harbor freight, $8.

As for the bodywork, yeah I have a long ways to go before I tackle full on rust repair rebuilding a tub. Thats a lot of time/money.
"complete rebuild kit for the axle" I was thinking about the ring / pinion and associated bearings in the center...

Having watched someone (who had obviously done it before) do this with a press, I'm pretty sure I won't be trying without one. I'm sure someone can beat it enough with a hammer they don't need one, I'm not going to try.

Replacing just the wheel bearings. OK. (I've only ever done this on a Ford, and, banging on the screwdriver in the wheel nut works well enough it the wheel bearing haven't failed yet and turning the whole thing into a mess that doesn't really want to come apart anymore, at which point you're exhaust pipe would've rounded itself back out again)

Inevitably, the value of those parts lies in your skill and ability to use them (and whether or not you actually need them).
 
Almost worked. Still here. Still at the point where it seems almost doable but a long process. Covid project.


Dealing with rust SUCKS. Mechanical stuff is basic for the most part.

But working on a cruiser that has any serious rust, meaning all of them priced under $10K nowadays, really sucks, there is a lot to it beyond just patching rust.

Read through my build thread and see for yourself.
 

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