Alright - so I've actually done a lot of research on this - and it seems all over the map. Yes I am having issues but I would kind of like to see actual general consensus in one thread. While I understand many of these things combined will really push towards a proper cooling system, some things may seem over the top when all combined together.
I also have another friend with an SBC in his that is having overheating issues, so I know it's a common problem. I'm trying to summate everything I've read instead of reading in various threads where resolution is random.
Things I have read to resolve overheating:
1) Place the engine further forward. Too far back and less airflow through the engine bay can cause increased engine bay temps that reduce overall cooling abilities.
2) Use a large mechanical fan. Others suggest the 90's larger Volvo electric fans, or a Taurus electric fan. Some claim electric is fine so long as it's 3500cfm or greater, others laugh at the thought of electric. I've even read on this forum how Flexalite fans are useless - yet elsewhere online I've read that at idle they are the most effective at moving air (problems with them were actually stated to be power robbing, noisy, and issues when in the water, of which none of those mentioned here)
3) Use an aluminum radiator (many suggest crossflow). There are tons of these available and the variety/conversations seem to vary.
4) Use a 195 t-stat. The theory behind this is based on a 160 or 180 constantly being open, allowing coolant to constantly flow through the radiator, without allowing the coolant to actually cool in the radiator. Part of me understands this theory (if it's on a proper cycle) but may not be useful if the coolant coming out of the radiator is greater than 195 - as in, the tstat would never close causing the same issue. Personally I'm more used to 4 cylinders in cars with very efficient cooling systems - and pulling a t-stat (or lower tstat) would in fact cause the engine to run significantly colder, so it seems a bit backwards to my experiences.
5) (This is from random hot rod forums) use a lower 7 PSI radiator cap (from this forum) use a 15psi cap. Literally have seen almost nothing talked about this on this forum. Some state that the higher PSI's increase temps - but really, isn't it the temp that is causing/regulating the pressure? A low PSI cap would most likely open/close more often and maybe pull from a cooler source (overflow) but otherwise I don't see a benefit.
6) Use a properly set up radiator fan shroud. Blades 1/2 in and 1/2 out, ensure the shroud is covering the entire radiator, and is built as a box shroud.
7) Possible issues with flow to the radiator - trans/oil/ps coolers, condensors, winches (etc) in the way for air to get pushed/pulled through.
8) Ensure your engine is running properly - not overly lean/rich, and that timing is right.
Thoughts on these, items missing to consider?
I also have another friend with an SBC in his that is having overheating issues, so I know it's a common problem. I'm trying to summate everything I've read instead of reading in various threads where resolution is random.
Things I have read to resolve overheating:
1) Place the engine further forward. Too far back and less airflow through the engine bay can cause increased engine bay temps that reduce overall cooling abilities.
2) Use a large mechanical fan. Others suggest the 90's larger Volvo electric fans, or a Taurus electric fan. Some claim electric is fine so long as it's 3500cfm or greater, others laugh at the thought of electric. I've even read on this forum how Flexalite fans are useless - yet elsewhere online I've read that at idle they are the most effective at moving air (problems with them were actually stated to be power robbing, noisy, and issues when in the water, of which none of those mentioned here)
3) Use an aluminum radiator (many suggest crossflow). There are tons of these available and the variety/conversations seem to vary.
4) Use a 195 t-stat. The theory behind this is based on a 160 or 180 constantly being open, allowing coolant to constantly flow through the radiator, without allowing the coolant to actually cool in the radiator. Part of me understands this theory (if it's on a proper cycle) but may not be useful if the coolant coming out of the radiator is greater than 195 - as in, the tstat would never close causing the same issue. Personally I'm more used to 4 cylinders in cars with very efficient cooling systems - and pulling a t-stat (or lower tstat) would in fact cause the engine to run significantly colder, so it seems a bit backwards to my experiences.
5) (This is from random hot rod forums) use a lower 7 PSI radiator cap (from this forum) use a 15psi cap. Literally have seen almost nothing talked about this on this forum. Some state that the higher PSI's increase temps - but really, isn't it the temp that is causing/regulating the pressure? A low PSI cap would most likely open/close more often and maybe pull from a cooler source (overflow) but otherwise I don't see a benefit.
6) Use a properly set up radiator fan shroud. Blades 1/2 in and 1/2 out, ensure the shroud is covering the entire radiator, and is built as a box shroud.
7) Possible issues with flow to the radiator - trans/oil/ps coolers, condensors, winches (etc) in the way for air to get pushed/pulled through.
8) Ensure your engine is running properly - not overly lean/rich, and that timing is right.
Thoughts on these, items missing to consider?
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