Builds Salt wagon My first fj40 (build) (7 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I wish you would have reached out about the driveshaft patterns, I would have sent you a full set of U-joints for free for the inconvenience. I could have sworn those were 8mm shafts from my friends 68 but I guess they were off the 71 I parted a few years ago.
I should have some red throttle linkage boots as well if you still need
 
cruisermatt said:
I wish you would have reached out about the driveshaft patterns, I would have sent you a full set of U-joints for free for the inconvenience. I could have sworn those were 8mm shafts from my friends 68 but I guess they were off the 71 I parted a few years ago.
I should have some red throttle linkage boots as well if you still need
Click to expand...
Hey! Thanks for the offer. You have been super awesome with this build in helping me out with parts and Again I am not upset. It was a good excuse to replace ujoints. I just Pmed you. I apologize sometimes I am hardheaded.
 
I’m too lazy to read back to see if you posted it, but what’s the fan shroud issue? Is the fan too big, shroud need moved, etc? My 1970 has the F engine but I’m running a 6 blade plastic fan with stock F shroud and no issues. I have a GMB (I think) water pump with no spacer to run the fan. I did need to shim the radiator up, but that was due to shimming the engine up for the 4 speed conversion business.

Looking great!
 
Skreddy said:
I’m too lazy to read back to see if you posted it, but what’s the fan shroud issue? Is the fan too big, shroud need moved, etc? My 1970 has the F engine but I’m running a 6 blade plastic fan with stock F shroud and no issues. I have a GMB (I think) water pump with no spacer to run the fan. I did need to shim the radiator up, but that was due to shimming the engine up for the 4 speed conversion business.

Looking great!
Click to expand...
I also have a gmb water pump from city racer and no fan clutch no spacer. It seems the shroud needs to go up some and to the drivers side some but its off about a half inch or a little more in both directions. It would be nice to use the 1f shroud. I am wondering if I shim the radiator up some if it will be a better fit.

I dont think the 6 blade I have is too big.
 
Last edited:
An update: I am leaving Tomorrow for two weeks. ITS ANNOYING BECAUSE I HAVE SO LITTLE TO DO BEFORE I LEAVE. I only have about a days work to get to drive it around. I need bleed the breaks and get the carb more tuned. I got it pretty close on the carb today but I am still not happy with it. I need to do a full lean drop procedure like otram did in that video I have seen on mud. I did get the engine timed. idled really well. Who has a good suggestion for a cheep tachometer and vacuum gage to hook up to tune the carb?

The other things I need to do is just bolt up the clutch inspection cover, Bolt up the front drive shaft and I already installed the rear, put the front clip on with the grill and head lights, hook up the pcv hose, and drain some oil. I think I am about 2 quarts high. I also have some small exhaust leaks on the header that I need to find a solution to. I have heard people using two gaskets. maybe that would work. I tightened the intake studs and it helped some.
 
I think I bought the same timing light a couple of yrs ago. It has all the functions i was looking for. 👍
 
Are you using an F135 fan shroud or a 2F shroud? They are different.
 
I picked up a digital timing light with adjustable advance and a tach, it’s been invaluable. Picked up a vac gauge from The Chinese dollar store, I mean, Harbor Freight. Between these and a set of feeler gauges that have the proper thicknesses (.08 and .14), my trucks have never run better. Starting to feel like some sort of mechanic here.
 
The timing light I got from O’reillys, it was like $80. Probably the same as above.
 
clrussell said:
Remflex gasket seems to be everyone’s go to on the exhaust leak at the header.

I just installed one on mine for this exact reason. I haven’t ran it yet to see if it’s better or not though.
Click to expand...
I am going to try one. Just ordered one off amazon. From what I have read it seems like the way to go if you have a header. I have to pull the carb off anyway to finish adjusting my accelorator linkage and pedal (to make room for my big hands down there)

middlecalf said:
Are you using an F135 fan shroud or a 2F shroud? They are different.
Click to expand...
Yeah I know... I thought I had a 2f shroud but I have a F shroud. I need to find a 2f shroud. I will probably post something in the classified here soon because I think what I have probably will not work modified. or at least it needs more modification than I want to do on it.

RevISK said:
The timing light I got from O’reillys, it was like $80. Probably the same as above.
Click to expand...
Green Bean said:
I've been happy with this timing light:


and this vacuum gauge:


I hope that you have a great trip. The 40 will be waiting for you when you return.
Click to expand...
When you are using the tac function do you just shine it at the window on the bell housing or is it running off the number 1 plug wire to run the tac? just curious on how it works. (I know how a basic timing light works, just not one of those fancy digital ones.)
 
The light has 1 lead that clips on #1 plug and a pos and neg leads to the batt. If you run points it has a lead to the neg side of coil for a dwell reading. It's not required for timing, volt and tach.
 
The detachable leads helps putting the light back in the case, it's really not a big deal. I like the dwell option, but I haven't used it yet.
 
the last drive to the beach before I pulled the engine.
Taken with a little point and shoot ricoh Gr1s and some Harman 200 color film (new film that came out this year)

IMG_7240.JPG


OlYellr said:
Throwing it in the mix.. I use this timing light - same brand as @Green Bean - just a cheaper model.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVYGV4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Connect to battery - and then on the cord of the #1 plug for Tach and shine at window on bell housing for timing
Click to expand...
Think I might pick one of these up. I have a cheep light but need a tac so this seems to solve the problem.
 
I have a random question does anybody know the collector size on the cheeper tpi headers? I should have measured but I am outta town and want to order the parts to get the exhaust all buttoned up when I get back. Admittedly I don't know if thats a standard size or not.

IMG_1147-1.jpg

Edit: figured out the size!
 
Last edited:
I got back yesterday from Maine. I was up there for a week and away from working on the fj40 for 2 weeks. Was really cool up there and I took lots off photos. 11 rolls of 35mm film and 5 rolls of medium format. and 500 some digital photos. The film is processing but here are some digital photos I took with my vintage nikon D3 and a 58mm lens.
11B612F0-E11D-44DC-A7E3-7DD23C91DD89.JPG
87A28262-4ED0-4801-B91B-2720CE376BD2.JPG
2EAF32DF-FCC5-410A-BAF3-18F649E57329.JPG
FFD38FE4-0E07-4080-A72D-1845B704FFFE.JPG
 
Last edited:
As soon as I got back yesterday I started tinkering. I regrettably got a cheep Most plus carb for the land cruiser as somthing still was not right with the oem one that I have. Its actually pretty good looking. Nothing out of the ordinary other than the choke linkage attachment is different. I think Ill have my OEM one professionally rebuilt. at the very least the most plus carb will be a back up when I get the oem one straitened out. It at least looks very nice under there and does not have the smog crap on it. I also replaced the intake/exhaust gasket with a ramflex one. its double as thick as the one that I had in. it should seal everythig up no problem. I did loose one of the studs for the intake. so I reused a bolt that was in it. I also got a bunch of little doo dads and parts in when I was gone. I have a few things still coming too like a vacuum gage and exhaust parts. I got some wiring for the oil pressure gage, got a braided tube for the pcv valve hose, the bolts and screws for the inspection cover, a throttle linkage spring and I feel like I am missing somthing but Ill think of it later.
IMG_7381.JPG

IMG_7382 (1).JPG

I am going to try and bolt up the front drive shaft and bleed the brakes today after work. Maybe also wire up the oil pressure gage. I am not sure where the old wire is for the oil pressure gage. looks like its all still there from behind the gage cluster. I just need to track down where it was cut for the SBC swap.

@GA Architect also stopped by when I was gone. Wish I was there to chat more! but he left a card.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

W
'77 FJ40, my first one.
Replies
7
Views
817
wchevron
W
SSCR
1974 Fj40 Build
12 13 14
Replies
275
Views
7K
SSCR
SSCR
AYN LAND
Wagon Wheel Size
Replies
4
Views
597
AYN LAND
AYN LAND
MatthewMcD
My First FJ40 My Introduction
2 3
Replies
40
Views
5K
PidgeonGuggolo
PidgeonGuggolo

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 8 (members: 0, guests: 8)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom