Saginaw tie rod end

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SC-Cruiser

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Jan 17, 2006
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11
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133
Location
Mt Pleasant, SC
In the process of finishing up reinstalling the front axle on my 71’ 40. I got all new tie rod ends from @cruiseroutfit a long time ago. The tie rod end that goes to the Saginaw pitman arm seems to have the right taper but sticks through so far that there is no way to fix the castle nut with a cotter pin. Has anyone else had this same problem? Other than putting a thick washer on top to space the nut further up what are my options?

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If it is tight in the taper and the joint itself can still move without interference, toss a washer under the castle nut. There are multiple ID/OD pitmans with the same actual taper angle.
 
Thanks @cruiseroutfit, much appreciate you answering on a Sunday.
I checked the taper by measuring the old and new tie rods and by my calculations they have the same taper, about 3 degrees if I did the geometry correctly.

I will look for a thick washer I can use as a spacer or get one of our technicians at work to make one for me.

Any recvomendations on grease to use on the tie rod end. I have leftover molly grease from the knuckle rebuild and regular bearing grease.
 
Found the answer. The search on mud is horrible. I do much better using google with fj40 and IH8MUD added to the search. Molly grease was the answer
How so?
 
If you are referring to the search I used to get around the suboptimal search engine in MUD here is what I did

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If you are referring to the search I used to get around the suboptimal search engine in MUD here is what I did

View attachment 3859769
So, for the TR end, you just used a washer? I just thought your previous post was ambiguous about the ‘answer’
 
Any recvomendations on grease to use on the tie rod end. I have leftover molly grease from the knuckle rebuild and regular bearing grease.

Sorry I missed your inquiry. We use Lucas Red/Tacky or Mystic JT6 for tie rod ends here at the shop. Both are a NLGI #2
 
So, for the TR end, you just used a washer? I just thought your previous post was ambiguous about the ‘answer’
I used spacer I had made (basically a thick washer) to make up the additional length of the tierod end so it could be torqued properly
 

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