- Thread starter
- #81
Beautiful work.
Rustoration Advice (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BBradford
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Old Nick
GOLD Star
Rust treatment can only go so far. Once you start to get bubbles and any cheesing, it's really time to replace IMO. Surface rust and some pitting can be stopped with basic removal and treatment, but the tin worm is a whore and will always get around once it's started.
There are some good patch panels on the market, but almost all will need to be modified to fit.
By the looks of it, I would be pulling lower door skins and at least fully treating between the layers or replacing depending on how bad it is. Guaranteed there is rust in the rear sill, CCOT makes a very good product, but the radius of the corners is usually wrong. I'll bet there is solid rust under the wheel well braces and probably good pitting or cheese in the foot wells and the gas tank.
Rear floors don't usually rust out too much unless it's really bad, I'd bet there is just going to be pitting there.
@sogncab was the latest rust repair I've done, but I've done 15+ 40's in the past few years.
There are some good patch panels on the market, but almost all will need to be modified to fit.
By the looks of it, I would be pulling lower door skins and at least fully treating between the layers or replacing depending on how bad it is. Guaranteed there is rust in the rear sill, CCOT makes a very good product, but the radius of the corners is usually wrong. I'll bet there is solid rust under the wheel well braces and probably good pitting or cheese in the foot wells and the gas tank.
Rear floors don't usually rust out too much unless it's really bad, I'd bet there is just going to be pitting there.
@sogncab was the latest rust repair I've done, but I've done 15+ 40's in the past few years.
I wouldn’t replace anything until you throw some naval jelly on it and see what’s actually left. I’ve seen a lot of guys on here eager to cut out stuff and never tried to see what is still good. Simple steps and minimal cuts.
A simple magnet can tell you a lot about bondo content.
RevISK
SILVER Star
As you can see, opinions are like gut bacteria, everyone’s got them.
Abate, access, enjoy. My gut bacteria’s suggestion.
Abate, access, enjoy. My gut bacteria’s suggestion.
- Thread starter
- #87
I'm learning ... keep all the opinions coming.
Thanx
Thanks @Grayscale for the kind words on my 40. The showroom truck is overrated in my opinion. Id be scared to drive a full resto one. just fix the obvious holes and blend new paint with the old paint! I use fluid film a lot to keep the rust demon at bay. another cruiser head that I appreciate in terms of patina and rust repair is @CondeCruiser and his spring green 40!
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CondeCruiser
SILVER Star
Thanks, man. I appreciate that.
You should give welding a go. if you can measure and use a cutting wheel you can tackle it. Just test your weld settings on a scrap peice and learn to do stitch and plug welds. I did all my work without a garage and a eastwood mig welder and an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. The things I learned on the way are so valuable to me now and I am so happy I took the time to learn a new skill that i love doing.
Currently looking for a crusty willys I can restore and weld more haha.
RevISK
SILVER Star
What he said
This 100%, do it yourself!!! Not going back on my statement that I’d pay $50k for a complete body rebuild and paint if it was top quality work. Point being is that you have options. I had never held a welder when I took my project back from the craptastic and I’ve now replaced every patch panel that Real Steel offered, fabricated a ton of random patches, did the full CCOT rain gutter, and a bunch of fixing dents. It’s not that difficult if you’re willing to sit through YouTube training videos, lean on MUD, and take your time. Plus you’ll develop epic life skills and own a bunch of cool tools. I suppose you can always take it to a shop if you fail but may as well try first.
I had a friend that said he would teach me to weld in the panels, he wouldn't do the job but would show me how. Well he died a few weeks ago. I been watching lots of youtube vids on how to do it. So I'm going to buy a welder and learn to do it late April when I don't have 5' of ice and snow. So I'm leaning towards 0.025 wire with gas. I'm thinking of those multi-process welders is in my future.
RevISK
SILVER Star
a Miller 211 is a great machine. Compact and super versatile. Well worth the higher entry fee.
Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
This is a Semi high jack.
There’s some good commentary buried here ref: 110 welders for body panel work. Are you looking at something bigger? For other? Don’t know if the OP has the same thing in mind.
There’s some good commentary buried here ref: 110 welders for body panel work. Are you looking at something bigger? For other? Don’t know if the OP has the same thing in mind.
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sterling
SILVER Star
This and then...
Grab a welder and some metal and go at it.
You learn a lot about yourself and a new skill in the process.
Adds a notch to your belt so to speak. I did my floor pan and outer rocker with no prior welding experience, just youtube videos.
While not perfect, it ain't half bad either. A skill well worth learning, I wouldn't mind taking some community college classes to tighten up.
- Thread starter
- #98
Sorry to hear about your friend.
If I had the indoor space, Winter would be the perfect time to pick up a project like this. Where in Idaho are you? (I grew up in Boise).
Robie Creek in the foot hills
- Thread starter
- #100
Yep, know it well.
