Rust consult - Is this BJ42 too far gone? (1 Viewer)

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Agree as well—if that’s the rust you see my guess is there a lot more. More pix please especially the frame and tub.
This. I would find a better cowl and change the steering side at the same time, I don’t like RHD.
 
That's gotta be close to thousands of hours of rehab. If it runs, drives, turns and stops it's probably closer to a $1000 cruiser from what I see.
$1000? If the (LX) interior is in fine shape, it alone is easily worth $2000. Factory AC, factory PS... =$$$$ more

I’d buy this $7500 if it’s mechanically ok, frame is ok, and the rest of tub is ok. But I’d really want to see how the rear sill and front floors look like.
 
That thing has got rust in places I didn't know a FJ40 rusted. If it is that neglected on the outside, I can only imagine what the mechanicals and frame are like. If you tackle this one you had better be more than a little handy. It doesn't need body work. It needs a complete transplant. You should at least double your budget over the long haul and that is with you and your dad doing all the work. I wouldn't even take this one on with an unlimited budget. Keep looking.
 
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What’s interesting is that the places that do normally rust (rockers, doors, fenders, quarters don’t look too bad! It seems like there are 3 major rust issues:

1) hood - easy enough to replace
2) cowling - potential nightmare
3) top/side panel edges? - it seems like the areas of REALLY bad flakey rust might be isolated to the top for the most part, which may not be SO bad.

If you’d pay anything for it, what would you pay? And how big of a project considering the rust areas pictured seem to be the only major issues? Seller said he was firm at $7500, but that seems stratospherically overpriced at this point. $4500 and 200 hours of work to fix the major rust?
 
$1000? If the (LX) interior is in fine shape, it alone is easily worth $2000. Factory AC, factory PS... =$$$$ more

I’d buy this $7500 if it’s mechanically ok, frame is ok, and the rest of tub is ok. But I’d really want to see how the rear sill and front floors look like.
Power steering works, AC does not, but it’s all there.
 
In my opinion there are some positives. $3500-$4500 depending on mechanically how much of it works. How bad you want a particular FJ40 also weighs heavily sometimes. It is your money and time. In the end if you buy it and fix it you will own something that not many do.
 
$500 parts rig here in oz


I'll buy three please. I've seen the pricing on LX interior parts on eBay AU. This is worth more than $500 even in US currency. Just the brown steering wheel (8/80+) and tach would bring over $500 here. While It is being sold as a 80 pretty sure it a 81 model with split transfer case and crossmember under the transmission. The US killed the idea of us ever getting a LX model when they required a roll bar on 74+ models. My opinion of the rust is it spend time on the beach. Have a 82 tub and frame that has similar rust just not as bad. It came from Florida. Places where sand would accumulate rusted.
 
This. I would find a better cowl and change the steering side at the same time, I don’t like RHD.


I would keep it RHD. Power steering would not work. A/C would be a challenge. I'm getting a RHD control box, evaporator and heater duct going to try and reverse engineer to LHD. Have a HVAC background so not going to have to pay someone else to figure it all out. Could get costly paying someone doing one off custom work.
 
I wouldn’t fix that rust. If you get the truck and it’s a decent driver then drive it, budget for a new tub cowl (aqualu or what ever) repair doors, hard top looks like it’s good for parts and spare glass. Make sure the frame is good before hand. Decide on a rhd to lhd conversion that’s your call. You’ll have a nice truck when it’s done. This isn’t rocket surgery, there’s lots of really great documented builds on here that are done well. Follow these and you can’t go wrong.
 
I wouldn’t fix that rust. If you get the truck and it’s a decent driver then drive it, budget for a new tub cowl (aqualu or what ever) repair doors, hard top looks like it’s good for parts and spare glass. Make sure the frame is good before hand. Decide on a rhd to lhd conversion that’s your call. You’ll have a nice truck when it’s done. This isn’t rocket surgery, there’s lots of really great documented builds on here that are done well. Follow these and you can’t go wrong.


Being a LX would use only steel panels. Would plan on transferring all the extra bracket for the panels on the side. Tub and hard top sides have special brackets only on LX models. Can see in the rear ambulance door picture the inner panel pulled back to show the metal on the door. That would only require drilling holes and adding a few fixed nuts. Also keep in mind the LX has front and back three point seat belts. Those brackets as well would need to be transferred. I already have a heat start with a 77 hard top that has the front seat belt brackets already. Just need to remove the post for the vent window to add the sliding window.
 
I wouldn’t fix that rust. If you get the truck and it’s a decent driver then drive it, budget for a new tub cowl (aqualu or what ever) repair doors, hard top looks like it’s good for parts and spare glass. Make sure the frame is good before hand. Decide on a rhd to lhd conversion that’s your call. You’ll have a nice truck when it’s done. This isn’t rocket surgery, there’s lots of really great documented builds on here that are done well. Follow these and you can’t go wrong.

Are there aftermarket cowls that work with the facotry tub? Aqualu states that theirs only works with the an aqualu tub. That would take it from a $3500 investment (cowl) to like an $8K + investment (Tub +cowl). Seems excessive since this tub SEEMS to be solid. Are there other options?
 
To convert this one to LHD would plan on sourcing another LHD power steering box. Seats may be about to switch the mounting bracket so the large section moves to the right side. If the floor mat is good may just live with the handle for the hand brake on the right side. You would want a 1/79+ OEM LHD cowl. 8/80 would be better. 10/82+ the best as would be simple to add a H55F five speed. I assume this is still in Australia with Queensland plates front and back. Have the seller give you the VIN off the frame. 8/80 went from a BJ40 to BJ42. VON with start with either BJ 40 or BJ42. Plenty of advantages on a BJ42. 3B verses the old B is a big one.
 
So, If I get the truck for $6000, budget $4500 for the cowl job RHD (replaced professionally. Is that realistic?), $1500 for the sides/gutter, then $1000 for msc metal work, that puts me at about $13k. Another $2k for a decent paint job and I'm in it for $15k for a good looking, rare Daily driver. DOes that seem realistic?
 

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