- Thread starter
- #41
I also used 18 gauge wire for all the switches, a set of waterproof 60/40 relays, a box full of various crimp connectors, and some sheathing for the wires running outside of the cab. Good luck!
Running wires through the firewall
- Thread starter Ramathorn15
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #42
The connectors I bought off amazon (listed here) were not good. The metal was way too soft. I actually bought a box of connectors from harbor freight that are really good quality.
Ancor or 3M brand connector terminals = Long term peace of mind. But buy them from a reputable distributor as counterfeits are rampant on eBay and even Amazon these days.
Waytek Wire is one place I trust and purchase quality all things 12v electrical supplies. Waytek | 12V Electrical Components Distributor And, in general, McMaster has good quality components too.
Ditto for Powerwerx: Anderson Powerpole, DC Power, Wire & Cable, Two-Way Radios | Powerwerx
For affordable bulkhead fittings for waterproof electrical wire pass through I am 100% happy with these Ancor bulk head fittings (available for various wire gauge sizes): Amazon.com : Ancor 765000 Marine Grade Electrical Wire Seal (Round Cable, 10 to 2-Gauge, .24-.47 Cable Range, UV Black) : Boating Wire : Sports & Outdoors
Waytek Wire is one place I trust and purchase quality all things 12v electrical supplies. Waytek | 12V Electrical Components Distributor And, in general, McMaster has good quality components too.
Ditto for Powerwerx: Anderson Powerpole, DC Power, Wire & Cable, Two-Way Radios | Powerwerx
For affordable bulkhead fittings for waterproof electrical wire pass through I am 100% happy with these Ancor bulk head fittings (available for various wire gauge sizes): Amazon.com : Ancor 765000 Marine Grade Electrical Wire Seal (Round Cable, 10 to 2-Gauge, .24-.47 Cable Range, UV Black) : Boating Wire : Sports & Outdoors
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
After drilling the hole in the fire wall, did you prep and paint with something for corrosion prevention?
@Ramathorn15 did you use any paint or sealant?
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- Oct 6, 2016
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I used spray paint on the bare metal that generally matched and then I used clear silicone around the boot and inside the boot to make sure no water gets in.
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
Ok, that is my plan then. Just wanted to make sure someone didn't have a simpler idea. Thanks Sir!
- Thread starter
- #47
I used enamel nail polish I stole from the SO.
Great thread going on here. Following!
@Ramathorn15
Did you disconnect the battery before unplugging the brake booster wiring and VGRS computer?
Did you disconnect the battery before unplugging the brake booster wiring and VGRS computer?
- Thread starter
- #50
Honestly, I don't remember. Might as well pull the (-) terminal just to be safe though.
Here’s were I ended up drilling my hole. Just up and over from the spot used by @Brian Waag and @Ramathorn15. I didn’t need to unplug any of the brake booster wiring to get my drill level or mess with the VGRS mount.
How did your wirin install go bro? Any update photos you can attach? I am thinking of going your route.
It went smooth. I don’t have any more photos on me, but I can try and take some tonight or tomorrow. Not much to show, though. Drilling the hole is the most difficult part. I used one of the Daystar firewall boots that others recommended in the hole I drilled. It took a little bit of work to get it to sit completely flush against the firewall. It’s been holding up with no issues for the past few months. You could put some black gasket RTV around the edge where the gasket seals to the firewall for extra insurance against water ingress.
Not sure what model you have being you location is overseas, but you may need to remove the mounts for some of the electronics behind the dash to gain enough clearance to route wires Inside the cabin. You’ll need to remove the left most mounting screw on the VGRS mount (if equipped) in order to get the boot to sit flush. It can be replaced after you install the boot and actually holds that side of the boot against the firewall.
A stepped drill bit makes drilling the hole pretty easy.
Step Drill Bit
Daystar Firewall Boot
Luke111
Supporting Vendor
Just finished this... thank you all .. pictures start on post #175
forum.ih8mud.com
New 2006 LX in Virginia
Did you need a wiper puller to get the old arm off? When I was trying to reindex my rear wiper, I got scared I would break something when trying to get it off, so I stopped.
forum.ih8mud.com
prwillard2
SILVER Star
Sorry to revive a semi dead thread. What drill are people using to get into the firewall spot near the drivers side? I cannot fit my drill in there as it's too long, even with removing all the plugs, etc. Do I need to remove the brake fluid reservoir?
Cheapo 18v Harbor Freight drill with a step bit. Held it upside down to drill the hole.
This seems to be "the" wiring thread, or one of the most extensive. So posting here instead of making a new one.
Question about any special treatment I need to do for cables through the firewall boots. I ran a VHF/UHF coax through the passenger side boot today. I also did a set of 12g mains through the DS boot that will run to my radio. For running cables through the boots:
Question about any special treatment I need to do for cables through the firewall boots. I ran a VHF/UHF coax through the passenger side boot today. I also did a set of 12g mains through the DS boot that will run to my radio. For running cables through the boots:
- Do I need to add waterproofing where I cut a slit in the boot to run cable? Silicone or similar?
- Sanity check (I'm 99% sure this is fine) -- is there any risk of wire rubbing the wall from inside the boot? When fishing it through, I could feel the wall, but I assume the wall is covered by the rubber boot. If not, how do you recc I safegaurd to not create a welder? Other than the 40A fuses I have for my mains
I let this intimidate me for about an hour before I shot a Monster and grabbed my drill. I drilled in the same spot @jtb517 did -- to the top and right of the screw -- using a stepped bit and the Daystar boot.
Literally took 2 minutes. It was a bit ridiculous after all the hemming and hawing I did. I will note that I did have to use a 'compact' drill to fit it in the space without moving anything.
Thanks again for another great how-to MUD thread
Literally took 2 minutes. It was a bit ridiculous after all the hemming and hawing I did. I will note that I did have to use a 'compact' drill to fit it in the space without moving anything.
Thanks again for another great how-to MUD thread
