Running warm, looking for theories

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Okay all, I will try to be as detailed as possible.

I am a new 80 series owner; I took delivery of Mountain Girl , a 1995 80 series, in November with 251,000 miles on her. PO had used as a daily driver. Since then I have put MAYBE 100 miles on it. The first thing I noticed when I drove it home was that there was no heat coming from the front vents; heat is hot and fine from the rear vents. I asked the PO about this and he told me that had been an issue and thought it might be due for a coolant change. I've done a lot of looking on Mud and found several people with this issue and it usually seems to be either a clogged heater core or air in the cooling system.

However, a couple of weeks ago while I was driving it on a short trip around town (stop and go traffic, short stint on the highway, ambient temperature sub-30's). The first thing I noticed was that within about 2 minutes the temp needle had risen to it's normal position; I found that strange as it was fairly cold outside. A few miles down the road I looked at the gauge cluster and noticed the temp needle acting erratically. It would move up within a hair of the red zone, then suddenly drop to it's normal just below half, then sometimes drop even below that. I immediately turned around to head home which was only about 5 miles away. It continued this behavior all the way back. There were no other symptoms.

Shortly after that I ordered an Ultra Gauge and was able to install it last night. Again, with ambient temps in the mid-40's, within 1 1/2 to 2 minutes the temperature needle had risen to normal. I drove within my neighborhood for approximately 10 minutes with speeds never exceeding 30 mph. Within that time the temperature reading on the UG had risen all the way up to 226.4 F at which point I pulled into the driveway and turned the car off. I did notice during the drive the temperature stalled once at around 190 F and I let it sit and idle for a minute. It dropped by a few degrees into the 180s F but then rose again once I started driving, and continued to rise. It idled and ran smoothly, there was no shaking or excessive smoke. There is a strange "rushing liquid" sound periodically behind the dash on the passenger side.

I'm wondering if these issues (no front heat, rising coolant temps) are related. I have a kit from Blackstone at home and hope to send off an oil sample to them this weekend, but I was interested in getting thoughts from Mud in the meantime as there are some very knowledgeable people perusing these threads.

Thanks in advance!
 
So, could be air in the system (this causes the rushing water/gurgling sound you described). Possible causes are coolant leak, insufficient coolant or head gasket. The fact that it heats up so quickly would point to the head gasket and the temp readings being erratic correlates to air in the system (possibly caused by head gasket leak) since the sensor can only read temperature when there is water to sense.
 
So, could be air in the system (this causes the rushing water/gurgling sound you described). Possible causes are coolant leak, insufficient coolant or head gasket. The fact that it heats up so quickly would point to the head gasket and the temp readings being erratic correlates to air in the system (possibly caused by head gasket leak) since the sensor can only read temperature when there is water to sense.

That makes a lot of sense. Good observation on correlating the two issues, I would not have placed them together.
 
At any point did you check the coolant level?
 
At any point did you check the coolant level?

Not since it started running warm. I have had the cap off and the radiator seemed to have an adequate amount.
 
Not since it started running warm. I have had the cap off and the radiator seemed to have an adequate amount.

Is the resevoir/overflow bottle empty? I so it will suck in air instead of coolant.>
 
most of the cooling issues people complain about here on mud are with supercharged engines, could be alot of things, only way to know for sure is to start inspecting everything cooling related. Radiator, fan clutch, flush block, etc. First thing I would do is pull the radiator and have it inspected at a radiator shop. Then pull the fan clutch, thermostat, etc. Put it all back together with good new parts if needed and run a coolant flush mixture in the engine block for a few weeks (careful on freezing temps though) and then drain and refill.

all the above is of course considering you have checked the coolant levels and they are OK.

Noah
 
Is the resevoir/overflow bottle empty? I so it will suck in air instead of coolant.>

I hadn't thought to check this. I am a little ignorant when it comes to coolant issues; how much should be in the overflow bottle? And if it is empty should I just add straight to it? Thanks!
 
most of the cooling issues people complain about here on mud are with supercharged engines, could be alot of things, only way to know for sure is to start inspecting everything cooling related. Radiator, fan clutch, flush block, etc. First thing I would do is pull the radiator and have it inspected at a radiator shop. Then pull the fan clutch, thermostat, etc. Put it all back together with good new parts if needed and run a coolant flush mixture in the engine block for a few weeks (careful on freezing temps though) and then drain and refill.

all the above is of course considering you have checked the coolant levels and they are OK.

Noah

Thank you, that sounds like a great place to start. Cooling system tlc was at the top of my list when I got it so I don't mind doing it as much.
 
I hadn't thought to check this. I am a little ignorant when it comes to coolant issues; how much should be in the overflow bottle? And if it is empty should I just add straight to it? Thanks!

There are marks on the side of the overflow bottle to let you know the correct level. Add distilled water to the overflow bottle, not tap water. In theory you should add coolant and water or premixed coolant, but then we will be trying to figure out which coolant you have and mixing coolants can be disastrous, so just the distilled water until you figure out what your issues are. Chances are you will be draining the coolant for one thing or another very soon. You will then want to do some reading about coolants, flushes, red vs green etc.

After filling up the overflow, go drive around for 20 minutes and then recheck and top off, repeat until you are stable.
 
PM NLXTACY he should be able to help.

Damn you!!! beat me to it!! @NLXTACY

Haha you guys are funny :flipoff2:

By no means should I be considered the expert on the issue. Experienced on every aspect of this, maybe :(

So far what is posted is where I would start. I like to see your feedback and check from there before we start another wild goose chase. FWIW though I would make sure your heater control valve isn't plugged/rotted and that its been fully adjusted.
 
Thanks for all the replies friends. I picked up an OEM thermostat and gasket yesterday and will install shortly. I'll top off the cooling system with distilled water, let it warm up and watch the Ultra Gauge. I will post findings later today.
 
Also helps to fill the radiator while idling on a in line nose up. Helps to get the air locks out
Set the heater to full and make sure the water remains full.

Thermostat and Oring is a good start.

Is the floor well wet at all to check on leaking heater element.

If all fluids are topped up drive round check all the heat vitals. Once parked and cooled check fluids again. Then drive around again.

Should the fluids keep diminishing further fault findings and checks need to be done.
Before we speculate lets first see if your issues are sorted.
 
You decision on the Thermostat, now let' go on and reports, next should be your Radiator Cap!
 
Update:

I just finished installing the new thermostat and o-ring. I noticed something strange before I ever started the job, however. When I removed the radiator cap I saw no sign of coolant. The overflow basin was also empty. When I had last checked the coolant level, before all this started, there seemed to be plenty in there. It has been parked in the drive in the same spot and I have not seen any fluids underneath.

The thermostat job was very straightforward and quick. I used distilled water to fill to proper level in overflow basin and in radiator, then started the car and let it idle in the drive with the cap off and the Ultra Gauge plugged in. I had the heat selector all the way to hot, but left the blower off. Over the course of about 10 minutes of idling the temperature reading was just a little north of 190 F. I decided to turn the blower on and temp started to rise. At no point did the level of water in the radiator drop, nor did the upper radiator hose get warm. After I saw the UG reading 208.4 F I turned it off, picked up the tools, and am now writing this. Thoughts???
 
Just to be sure, check oil and if you can post a picture of your oil cover overturn to see the inside of you oil cap!
 
I just ran the engine for a few minutes and snapped this pic. Oil level on the stick was showing a little above the full line. photo.JPG
 

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