Builds Rootbeer Float my FJ140 Build Thread (7 Viewers)

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Placing here for reference for easy access and perhaps of help to others. I find it a little easier to read pin vs function compared to lt1swap on the interwebs format.

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Part of this build is to upgrade where possible to overcome some parts obsolence where possible. AC is critical in TX and prefer to bypass that 60 series AC amplifier (hard to find a replacement when it fails) and have the LS ECM manage it. Reading on lt1swap, only ECMs with certain service numbers allow a 12V AC request from the blue AC dash button. ECMs that I have did not match so I got one that does.

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Also got new ECM connectors with fresh seals. Most “smear RTV” the residual holes on the old connectors. These were cheap and good insurance for the brain to work. Also got OEM pins to crimp when I get to a custom wire layout/ terminate. Also got some tools😁. Transmission is also done! Pick it ip tomorrow!!

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Nice. You are doing Hard-mode, but that will be a great experience. And you will know every wire.
Highly recommend not looming until after you have everything together and running for a bit though.
 
Fuse panel parts came in from Waytek!

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Having prepped LS standalone harness for custom layout. Next was prepping the 12v FJ60 harness for transplant. I bought a complete 12v harness from a late model FJ60 to install into Rootbeer because it has a 24v harness. I did not want to “hope” it would work. One struggle I had was identifying all the connectors on the FJ60 harness. Searched on line and could not find much information. I have the FJ60 EWD but it does not show connector details like the fzj80 EWD. Called @CenTXFJ60 for some help. Luck would have it that he is working on a FJ60 with the dash apart for some work. In about an hour I was able to get all the connectors nailed down. This would have been an impossible task otherwise without a 12v gasser 60 in the barn. What luck and what generosity to take some time from his day!!! Green taped label pics show the connectors identified compared to pics without. I will take detailed pics and labels so that others can benefit from our combined efforts. One step closer.

Need to find some good connector cleaner and “emory paper” to refreshen connector tabs. I bought a 12v supply to test all the circuits for continuity before I install.

I will also remove old loom and reloom.

I am thinking of leaving unused harness connectors uncut so it stays original but hide them. Going to ruminate on that.

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Absolutely. Jimmy and I were just reflecting on that!!!
 
Thought I ordered regular dials😁. Glad they are thorough in their workflow.

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Yo, CD.
You mentioned a few posts back about an injector tester. Is that a universal thing? Curious about the injectors in Paul, The Eater Of Transmissions.
 
Its a kit with adapters for various injectors. You are welcome to borrow mine. It worked well for me.
 
Thinned out the 60 harness on engine side of firewall.
On the DS:
- all smog connectors
- temp sender wire
- AC idle up
- Idle cut off solenoid
- Headlight washer wiring

On the PS:
- alternator plug/charge wires
- Coil wiring
- Oil pressure sender
- Distributor wiring

This wiring harness is in great shape. I did not unwrap the harness bundle running across the dash on the inside because TEQ has an awesome anti-shafing wrap. It is far superior to Tesa tape. So leaving it. I also decided to cut unwanted wire in the engine bay about 6” from the grommet. I am going to add butt connectors to each wire and wrap it up with Tesa tape. This gives me some flexibility if i need a wire. I can pick it up on each side of the grommets.

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I went through all the harness connectors and made sure the wires were intact at the connectors and where corroded, pulled the terminals and cleaned them up. I used a regimen of simple green and brake kleen to get the connectors free of grime. Then I flushed all the connectors with WD40 connector cleaner. This is a quick dry formula. I will see if I can get some dialectric grease into the connectors.

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I will check the harness for continuity and short circuiting and voltage drop. Bought a bench DC power supply for this purpose.

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I was kicking around multiple options for my front bumper. I originally thought I would make my 60 series 4plus 8274 bumper work. I would have to chop it up too much to fit the 80 frame. I also looked at the sleeves short bus which fits the 80 frame. Cost was $1600 + $400 shipping, $2k to my door. I would still deal with clearance to fit the 60 front facia. Did not want to spend that kinda money and still have to butcher it some.

I elected to try a flat kit DIY bumper from Overkill Racing. $450 shipped to my door. I opted for this so that I can tweak as I weld it on. I will add more reinforcing to my liking. So for shipping cost of the slee, i get a bumper kit. If I mess it up, not a big deal.


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I also made parts order from my fav online parts supplier @cruisermatt.
- Radiator (Mosely) with side ports/ transmission cooler
- AC kit
- 4L60E shifter linkage kit
- all the connectors for diff locks, transfer case, diff lock ECU
- fzj80 transmission mount and hardware
- Shifter bushings (keeping OEM shifter)
- TEQ radiator bushings and hardware
-Speedhut gauge bracket
- Cruisermatt’s LS intake brake booster barb fitting
 

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