A few tips for those of you restoring your tops:
Use 5/32" x 3/8" Aluminum solid rivets. The factory holes will get a little buggered out while removing the old rivets. The 5/32 rivets are a tiny bit wider to fit snugly in the holes. You may have to "chase" the existing holes with a drill to clean them out and prepare them for the 5/32 rivets.
I modified a pair of vice grips to buck my rivets. This tool will provide you with consistent results on every rivet. I just took some round bar stock and cut little filets out of it and welded them on the jaws of the vice grips. I drilled a little divet in the center of one of them to center the head of the rivet in the tool, and it also gives the heads that factory "washer" look (that you'll never see after applying seam sealer).
Ahh yes, seam sealer. You'll want to use a good self leveling seam sealer. You'll need a couple tubes of this. I highly recommend the SEM 39387 self leveling seam sealer.
Use 5/32" x 3/8" Aluminum solid rivets. The factory holes will get a little buggered out while removing the old rivets. The 5/32 rivets are a tiny bit wider to fit snugly in the holes. You may have to "chase" the existing holes with a drill to clean them out and prepare them for the 5/32 rivets.
I modified a pair of vice grips to buck my rivets. This tool will provide you with consistent results on every rivet. I just took some round bar stock and cut little filets out of it and welded them on the jaws of the vice grips. I drilled a little divet in the center of one of them to center the head of the rivet in the tool, and it also gives the heads that factory "washer" look (that you'll never see after applying seam sealer).
Ahh yes, seam sealer. You'll want to use a good self leveling seam sealer. You'll need a couple tubes of this. I highly recommend the SEM 39387 self leveling seam sealer.














and I), put it back on the Cruiser.


