Is there a rubber gasket or just tube seal? Thanks Rudi
Roof restoration
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Is there a rubber gasket or just tube seal? Thanks Rudi
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I riveted the visor to the roof. Put a little caulking on the seem.
There is a weatherstrip (63161) on top of the windshield.
That visor is the barrier between the windshield and the roof and must be water proof or else the wind is blowing the rain water up to that space and into tour new headliner.
Rudi
There is a weatherstrip (63161) on top of the windshield.
That visor is the barrier between the windshield and the roof and must be water proof or else the wind is blowing the rain water up to that space and into tour new headliner.
Rudi
That is exactly what I found when I removed the carpeting that was used as a headliner. I know that in January while my daughter and son-in-law were here Nick pointed out the headliner was wet on the passenger side. I think in May or June (after my shop was finished) I took the carpeting down. I already have an office full of new parts to rebuild the doors, a headliner, etc. et al. But.......I will get The Beast back after four months in the shop, today. I will take it up to a fellow I know and trust in Quito for roof removal and repair. Fingers crossed that we are able to repair the rain gutter, much like you did on the visor, and re-use it. Otherwise it will take a couple of months for CCOT to fabricate and ship a new rain gutter, but I won't know until we get the roof off. I'm thinking that by the time the roof comes off, I will have already gutted the interior to a drivers seat, that it isn't that much more to strip the parts and pull the tub. If indeed I have to get a new rain gutter, the waiting time could be spent on straightening up the body work. Yeah, it has retired the retirement fund
.
One year ago today they poured the slab for my shop. I was ready for my own electrical service in early April, but it took until mid-May to get it as there is some problem with there not being a house on the site. So they rewarded me with commercial rate as an Artisan. Upside down to the USA, here commercial rate is double the residential rate.
. One year ago today they poured the slab for my shop. I was ready for my own electrical service in early April, but it took until mid-May to get it as there is some problem with there not being a house on the site. So they rewarded me with commercial rate as an Artisan. Upside down to the USA, here commercial rate is double the residential rate.
That's a tidy little shop. Very nice.
Thanks. It had been ten years since the last shed I built in the USA. It was a shed, so not as complete as this one. Building a wooden structure in a concrete country had its challenges
. Note that all walls and ceiling joists are spliced. The maximum length on the lumber is 3M (118"). You don't go to the store and pick lumber, you take a sketch and they mill it from something like 6 X 8 stock. I ordered "J" bolts from McMaster and had sent down here. The fellows who poured the slab had never seen them and had to have some "assistance" in where and how to position them. Way over built, since we don't have snow here, but it is the only way I know how to build. I can tell you that ten years doesn't make me younger or faster. But thanks for the compliment. With a little fridge, dart board and good music, it is my version of a man cave I guess.
After one month of service (and failure to purchase front and rear axles, front with discs) I drove The Beast up to Pifo, Ecuador on 20DEC17. The picture below of the inside of the roof was sent to me during Christmas week. The other pictures were just earlier this past week. I know he is currently working on the windshield frame. In the meantime I have revised both front seat tracks, they will now function fore/aft whereas before they were "fixed" at two inches up and two inches aft. I needed to do this as I am building a fold and tumble rear seat.
@Elfman this might be a good thread to post questions in. Pics of your roof would be helpful. I am going to use SEM sealer, UPOL epoxy primer and BASF single stage urethane paint.
Advice from a boatbuilder:
Advice from a boatbuilder:
That's an interesting viewpoint. Corvettes are plastic cars, paint lasts a long time on them.
I should also add that unless the mix of gelcoat, wax, styrene and catalyst is perfect you will end up with a sticky mess.
dodored
That ain't your cake Phillip! That's Simones cake!
Great thread!
Anyone have any experience repairing a hole in the fiberglass? The PO cut in an aftermarket sunroof that I need to remove and fix the hole he cut. The 1980’s were a bad time for aftermarket crap sunroofs.
FYI...... DO NOT PUT THESE TWO PIECES TOGETHER UNTIL AFTER YOU HAVE THE FIBERGLASS TOP BOLTED ON YOUR TRUCK.
I MADE THE MISTAKE OF PUTTING THESE TOGETHER. I MADE A MESS OUT OF ONE OF THEM TRYING TO GET IT APART. AND AS YOU CAN SEE... ITS ALL FRESHLY PAINTED.
I MADE THE MISTAKE OF PUTTING THESE TOGETHER. I MADE A MESS OUT OF ONE OF THEM TRYING TO GET IT APART. AND AS YOU CAN SEE... ITS ALL FRESHLY PAINTED.
Why you might ask? You have to have them apart to access the bolts that screw into the top.
This is what can happen.... grrrr.
This is what can happen.... grrrr.
They go between the windshield and side pieces
They sort of snap into place. A person (me) was able to wear a pair of gloves and get a good enough grip to twist them free. Not sure what was done on my "new" paint job, but I suspect it is less than right which goes along with much of the rest of the car. It is important, in my opinion (based on years of designing tooling for building wings) that the "box" be closed before setting a hinge. I watched my guy, who ignored and blew off my inputs, fully assemble doors and then start fitting stuff together and the roof was the last piece to go on. Needless to say after some $9,000 investment (parts, labor, painting) my rig needs to be taken apart, repainted and put back together properly. He did fine with sheet metal replacement, he got in a hurry under no pressure from me and that is when the quality of the work fell off the table.
That sucks. As you said, metal and such is easy compared to assembling a newly painted part. Not my forte either. Requires patience, which I tend to lack sometimes.
PS. still looking for input on my fiberglass repair question.
Anyone have any experience repairing a hole in the fiberglass? The PO cut in an aftermarket sunroof that I need to remove and fix the hole he cut. The 1980’s were a bad time for aftermarket crap sunroofs.
Anyone have any experience repairing a hole in the fiberglass? The PO cut in an aftermarket sunroof that I need to remove and fix the hole he cut. The 1980’s were a bad time for aftermarket crap sunroofs.
Man I know how you feel. I have no one blame except myself. It was an easy mistake for me, because I have to start putting parts on the truck just to help jog my memory on where and how to assemble my turck..... But if I ever build another one.... I wont make that mistake twice!!
I would highly suggest taking your top to a boat repair body shop, in other words a boat fiberglass body shop. There is one here in Nashville and I'm sure Atalanta would have one. But those guys work with busted up fiberglass all the time, I think it would be right up their ally to fix your top. I personally would not attempt to fix it, the top is thin and I don't have that skill set.
The guys at my paint shop worked on my top.. they repaired a couple of gouge marks I made while removing the headliner and then they added a layer of fiberglass mat and resin. And then for my headliner I asked for Raptor Liner ... All of this really help with the strength of the top!!
