I can't believe that's what they are selling these days. Mine looks like the one in Pappys picture. Sorry man, I had no idea.
Builds RockGoat Version 3RZ (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter RichardSkinner
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- Thread starter
- #82
No fault of yours. It is a bummer that it seems the QA on these really went down hill.
1st the garbage one I got
2nd that garbage one on Amazon review
3rd, I got the call this morning that a replacement was sent to the dealership — Long story short, garbage. Parts guy said it looks better but still not great. I had him send pics since the dealership is 45 minutes each way for me to look.
Some looks ok
Some looks terrible
Most concerningly, the tubes will cause very turbulent flow and undoubtedly a detriment to power.
Thankfully the parts guy was reasonable and had no problem saying it is unimpressive. He waived the 20% restocking fee for me, which was nice because his manager was trying to be a hard ass through his junior employee - not so much when I brought him out and spoke in person.
- Thread starter
- #83
Soooo with that side track SNAFU behind us we can move onto positives. I am hitting up LCE to get the swap header
Last weekend I met a guy locally who had done the swap. He had used the LCE header. I told him id bring a case of his favorite beer if he let me come pick his brain on the swap and take some pics.
I also ordered a cat from Rockauto. My donor had its stolen…
LCE Engine Swap Header Pickup, 4Runner To Newer 2RZ/3RZ Engine
Everyday more and more people are swapping newer engines into their old trucks, LC Engineering has developed a totally new header that will work with your newer 2RZ/3RZ and will also fit on your old style Toyota Pickup truck or 4Runner.
www.lceperformance.com
Last weekend I met a guy locally who had done the swap. He had used the LCE header. I told him id bring a case of his favorite beer if he let me come pick his brain on the swap and take some pics.
I also ordered a cat from Rockauto. My donor had its stolen…
- Thread starter
- #85
- Got the plenum on and all connectors and hoses hooked up.
- engine harness routed through fire wall
- Starter mounted
- Fuel supply line ran and connected to filter
- Bent fuel return and tank vent over top of trans and to passenger side <- most definitely should have done this with engine out. Don’t know what I was thinking
Remaining to get running:
- put remaining bell housing bolts in
- Move battery tray.
- Mount alternator and charge wires
- Run wire to fuse box
- mount evap cannister
- Heat shield for brake lines and cables above exhaust
- Lay in ORS harness
- mount and connect ECU
- radiator in and hose hook up
- bleed clutch and mount
- *run exhaust
After start up
- power steering pump and hoses
- remount ARB compressor
- remount Aux beam PDM
- reconnect winch
Getting close. I really am contemplating just having an exhaust shop do the exhaust for me. Big question is do I trust that everything is in place for a break in start up when they turn it over. My driveway is very steep. If I can get it started then I can’t get it back up on my side yard to work on. That’s a problem.
I don’t want to do a break in start up without O2 sensors and cat in place. So that puts me in a weird spot if I am to have a shop do it. Considering just making a downpipe with the sensors and cat so I can break it in and turn it over to a muffler shop running.
Still undecided. I’ll cross that bridge when I am there.
- engine harness routed through fire wall
- Starter mounted
- Fuel supply line ran and connected to filter
- Bent fuel return and tank vent over top of trans and to passenger side <- most definitely should have done this with engine out. Don’t know what I was thinking
Remaining to get running:
- put remaining bell housing bolts in
- Mount alternator and charge wires
- Run wire to fuse box
- Heat shield for brake lines and cables above exhaust
- Lay in ORS harness
- mount and connect ECU
- radiator in and hose hook up
- bleed clutch and mount
- *run exhaust
After start up
- power steering pump and hoses
- remount ARB compressor
- remount Aux beam PDM
- reconnect winch
Getting close. I really am contemplating just having an exhaust shop do the exhaust for me. Big question is do I trust that everything is in place for a break in start up when they turn it over. My driveway is very steep. If I can get it started then I can’t get it back up on my side yard to work on. That’s a problem.
I don’t want to do a break in start up without O2 sensors and cat in place. So that puts me in a weird spot if I am to have a shop do it. Considering just making a downpipe with the sensors and cat so I can break it in and turn it over to a muffler shop running.
Still undecided. I’ll cross that bridge when I am there.
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Following. I rebuilt & dropped a 1999 3rz in my 83 pickup a few years ago then life got in the way before I could finish the wiring and get it started. Used the LCE header & towed it to a muffler shop and honestly the exhaust looks amazing. Can't wait to finish that project up.
- Thread starter
- #87
Cut the battery tray out and moved it to driver side. This time I nutserted it in so it won’t be such a bitch to remove 
thinking of using bolts and fender washers. Would have for my battery to seperate in a roll over. Fires suck.
Also mounted the evap cannister. My donor was a crashed truck and the evap cannister broke. I had a buddy grab a good one from pick n pull, so eventually I’ll put a third mount in, but for now it’s in place well enough to get running.
thinking of using bolts and fender washers. Would have for my battery to seperate in a roll over. Fires suck.Also mounted the evap cannister. My donor was a crashed truck and the evap cannister broke. I had a buddy grab a good one from pick n pull, so eventually I’ll put a third mount in, but for now it’s in place well enough to get running.
- Thread starter
- #89
Yes, unfortunately have to do CA BAR inspection/referee and then biannual smogs after that. So need a CARB certified intake, which I believe all are in that battery area. I run a lot of dusty trails and want good filtration so I’m going to stick to OEM.
So on the topic of battery… I got back out here and threw the battery in. My dumbass never fore saw moving the battery to this side, so during my steering box relocation I cut a bunch of fender out to make accessing the box easier and replacement easier. Welp, that was an unforeseen mistake. The battery flops around a bit and I am fairly sure the fender will fatigue crack with the added weight given some trail time. Definitely when my dumbass gets silly at KOH.
So I am out here working on a patch with some spare 16 gauge I have laying around. These are the little unforeseen type side tasks that bog me down, but it is what it is.
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I had to add two supports down each side. From the top where the fender bolts on down to the base. My fender did crack just like you said.
I can get a pic tomorrow if you want.
I can get a pic tomorrow if you want.
- Thread starter
- #91
I’ll always take advice, thanks. I can tell that if I leave this as is, I will have an uglier problem down the trail.
I moved my battery too, and used an air box from a 99-01 3.4 4Runner, fit like a charm, although you do need to cut a 3” diameter hole in the inner fender for the cold air intake. The 96-98 used a different MAF that cost something like 6x what the later one does.
- Thread starter
- #93
Well this is a bit of a monstrosity, but I was able to form a piece this morning and zip it in. Definitely was worth while. The fender is feeling much better, however I still do want to keep an eye on it for cracks where the nurserts are as well as seperating from the rad core support.
- Thread starter
- #94
Well, shameless insta plug.
I worked WH1 crew at Sierra Trek this week. Just got back. A couple clips below -
I worked WH1 crew at Sierra Trek this week. Just got back. A couple clips below -
- Thread starter
- #95
hit my parts truck to run heater hoses, but the valve disintegrated in my hand as I was pushing the hose on. Going to have to order another and come back to that part of the project.
Moved onto the airbox. Cut the bottom out to bring it down below the hood.
Plasma cut a floor of 16ga steel. Had to tweak it with a few subtle bends to shim up the gaps from my crooked cuts and then JB welded it onto the box. I’ll throw a coat of paint on it this evening.
I ordered a 3” section of 80mm tube to bridge that gap. I’m 99% sure the ref won’t stamp off on this, but I’ll probably just pull my hood and remove the 3” section and just let it flop there to get stamped off. I’m also not thrilled that there isn’t really any room to let larger particles settle to the bottom of the box, but it is what it is.
Moved onto the airbox. Cut the bottom out to bring it down below the hood.
Plasma cut a floor of 16ga steel. Had to tweak it with a few subtle bends to shim up the gaps from my crooked cuts and then JB welded it onto the box. I’ll throw a coat of paint on it this evening.
I ordered a 3” section of 80mm tube to bridge that gap. I’m 99% sure the ref won’t stamp off on this, but I’ll probably just pull my hood and remove the 3” section and just let it flop there to get stamped off. I’m also not thrilled that there isn’t really any room to let larger particles settle to the bottom of the box, but it is what it is.
- Thread starter
- #96
Chipped a couple smaller items off the list.
Installed and bled new Aisin clutch master and slave.
Made this throttle cable bracket.
And installed remaining bell housing bolts and torqued them to spec. Unfortunately I’m missing these stiffener brackets. I don’t recall ever pulling them off when I pulled the engine. Fairly sure previous owner ditched them at some point. I’m going to once over my parts truck this evening, but trying to decide how I proceed. May fab some new ones or may risk it and run without them until I can come across some. I tried pulling the ones off my 22re but unfortunately they’re a different pattern.
Thoughts? If anyone had some extras they’re willing to sell, please let me know.
Installed and bled new Aisin clutch master and slave.
Made this throttle cable bracket.
And installed remaining bell housing bolts and torqued them to spec. Unfortunately I’m missing these stiffener brackets. I don’t recall ever pulling them off when I pulled the engine. Fairly sure previous owner ditched them at some point. I’m going to once over my parts truck this evening, but trying to decide how I proceed. May fab some new ones or may risk it and run without them until I can come across some. I tried pulling the ones off my 22re but unfortunately they’re a different pattern.
Thoughts? If anyone had some extras they’re willing to sell, please let me know.
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I seem to recall seeing the bell housing brackets on 2wd trucks, but not 4wd.
- Thread starter
- #98
Good to know. Can anyone confirm? I was planning to keep an eye on the dismantler yards and was going to hit a 2rz truck to find some. But if it’s normal to not run them I’ll lower the priority level.
I’d hate to crack the bellhousing deep into Fordyce. This rig is a wheeler, so I’d like to avoid catastrophic possibilities.
- Thread starter
- #99
appears you are correct. Post 1301 and a few after.
The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread - Page 44
The Official 3RZ Knowledge and Database Thread - Page 44
board.marlincrawler.com
How weird? So I am definitely going to kick it down the priority list, but I will have my eye out for a 2rz junkyard item to grab. Why not have the support??
4wd MT parts from the FSM doesn’t show the brackets either. Makes me wonder if the steering rack, or part of the differential is tucked in that space on the 4wd trucks. I can’t recall from when I pulled mine.
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I would find a way to get them to fit. Better to have the support than to but a bell housing out on the trail. Point of reference was the difference in early 20/22R car vs truck bell housings. Cars were thinner and I cracked one without the supports. Safer than sorry.
