Builds RockGoat Version 3RZ (2 Viewers)

[RichardSkinner]

Post 100 and we are damn close.

tip to those doing this: mount the lower alternator bracket before putting the engine in the truck. The bolts won’t clear the chilkat ToyOnlySwaps motor mounts once in place. I did a quick s*** ass cut because I could barely get my cut off wheel in there.
*edited, forgot I had TOS mounts*

Got most of the ORS harness in and have to say the 3RZ swap harness is well worth the money IMO. I work professionally in electrical design with a wire shop at a full truck equipment manufacturer and this harness ORS produces is clean and a massive time saver. Very nice product.

 

[RichardSkinner]

Also put the new heater valve in. That was kind of expensive and money I wish came from the donor. But age definitely got this thing. Kind of interesting that hot side degraded that badly. The plastic turned white and was super brittle.

 

[Mudder]

With the ORS wiring harness, do you just swap your alternator plug so it uses the factory fuse box from the 22re? I've thought about going the ORS route but haven't made up my mind yet.

 

[RichardSkinner]

With the ORS wiring harness, do you just swap your alternator plug so it uses the factory fuse box from the 22re? I've thought about going the ORS route but haven't made up my mind yet.

Yes. There are a couple cases like this where you swap a connector or splice into. I'll PM you.

 

[RichardSkinner]

Got the rad on, hoses hooked up, and filled. I also put an after market water temp sensor in because I don’t trust that my gauge cluster is working correctly. When I overheated my 22re it read that all was just fine. So easy peace of mind to install a glow shift.

Welded some D ring recovery points onto front bumper.

And fabbed a heat shield to protect the fuel line/brake lines/wiring harness running near exhaust.

Put a few bends in it and tacked it to that existing small heat shield that was bolted to frame.

Finished and painted

 

[RichardSkinner]

So I pulled EFI relay and fuel pump relays and cranked it for 3 different 20 second sessions to prime the fuel pump(no plugs in either to avoid compression load). I have an external oil pressure gauge screwed into the oil sender port right now and never saw the needle budge. When I go to press the pressure release button I can hear a faint puff of pressure release, but nothing registered on the gauge.

What’s y’all’s thoughts on priming? Call it good? I really don’t want to remove the valve cover to look for oil flow because the damn engine harness needs to be moved to get to rear valve cover bolts and it’s unbelievably tight and hard to get to the bolts that hold the harness down.. lol. Maybe when I’m fresh on a new work day I will do it, but it was a real bitch to install those bolts when I was putting it all together.

I don’t have voltage at the fuel pump for some reason, so no fuel right now. Otherwise I prob would have cranked it to fire. I need to track down what the issue there is.

what would you guys do about priming?
Call it good?
Go through hassle of removing valve cover to confirm oil flow?

Oh and the passenger side of my timing cover is seeping damn oil. Pretty annoyed by that.

 

[aztoyman]

What if you loosen your oil filter while you crank? An oil mess is better than a damaged crank in a fresh engine.

 

[aztoyman]

Or just pull the gauge from the port and see if your getting oil there??

 

[RichardSkinner]

What if you loosen your oil filter while you crank? An oil mess is better than a damaged crank in a fresh engine.

Not a bad idea. I almost pulled the oil gauge off to see if it shot out the port. Maybe I will wrap it in rags and do your idea.

 

[gnob]

fp doesn't run without the efi relay

 

[RichardSkinner]

fp doesn't run without the efi relay

I put it back in after cranking to prime oil. When keying on with it in, I am getting nothing from fuel pump. Checked voltage and 0 at the pump key on.

 

[gnob]

I put it back in after cranking to prime oil. When keying on with it in, I am getting nothing from fuel pump. Checked voltage and 0 at the pump key on.

you wont get voltage until crank or running.
theres never just key on voltage to the pump.

 

[RichardSkinner]

Ok, wife went to bathe my kid and my ADHD has been killing me wonder what’s going on with this puppy.

So I pulled the gauge and the plugs, and oil absolutely shot out. So I can rest easy on oil pressure. She’s pumping!

Now I left the relays in, and when cranking and then just a few seconds after I can hear the fuel pump running. I’ve never had fuel pump issues in the past with these trucks so I don’t have experience with them. Never realized these trucks only run fuel pump when running. Never even changed a fuel filter because mine have all been trail rigs and only a couple years old. So not a ton of miles.

I pulled the starter trigger and keyed for quite a while to run the pump with the pressure regulator cracked and got no fuel. Weird. Thinking maybe I kinked the line when running them over the trans? Mehhh. I put it away for now.

Tomorrow I will probably pull the lines off at the pump and key to make sure it’s actually pumping. Pretty basic problem at least.

Edit to add: I had typed half this and then saw gnobs post.

Also, I did pack the oil pump with Vaseline. So it prob picked oil up very quickly just starter RPM wasn’t enough to really push enough flow to register. I’ll leave the gauge on for my quick fire up before towing to muffler shop.

 

[liveoak]

The fuel pump runs on cranking through the starter signal(STA) to the circuit opening relay and once running(starter disengaged) , a signal from the AFM (22re) or ECU (3rz) keeps it going. I think the harness you bought has it's own relays for the fuel pump but if you are going to retain the factory circuit opening relay(behind passenger dash speaker) you have to connect the white/blue wire from the 3rz IK2 plug to the green wire of the circuit opening relay.
The 3rz oil pressure is about 4psi at idle so you may want a more sensitive gauge.

 

[RichardSkinner]

Alright well I’m a goof. I had enough gas to drive it up driveway so I didn’t think about fuel… when I had front wheels off it must have just barely been below the pump pick up. Jacked it up and threw the wheels on and fuel primed fine.

We are running!! Ran a little rough, but I’m thinking loose intake screwing with MAF, maybe because no O2 sensors, maybe because 1st 10 seconds of its new life. Going to double check the grounds also.

Oil pressure was good. Peak of 80 psi.

Next priority is tow to muffler shop.

 

[gnob]

very nice

 

[aztoyman]

Right on!

 

[RichardSkinner]

Had to delay my appointment for exhaust, but I’m scheduled for 9/19 install. Gives me time to finish clearancing my exhaust heat shield and clean up wiring. I need to modify it a little to fit the LCE swap headers.

Today I wired in the glow shift water gauge. Something is definitely funky with my OEM gauge. I think previous owner may have jumped it out when doing the 22r to RE swap? When I key on at 78 deg ambient, cold engine, it shows about 1/3 up the gauge. Either way having the back up gauge makes me feel so much better about break in.

did a bunch of odds and ends including adding a ground to chassis that I forgot

I was chasing a no start condition and pulled the starter apart and cleaned up some corroded grounds.

Keying to fire I could hear the starter click, but no crank. Battery is good. Hammer whack and she kicked over and started.

So question to you guys: 1.3kw starter, or the 2.0kw “cold weather” starter? I can’t pull a PN off mine to tell what current one is. Too faded.

And some vid of her purring! This is open header, no O2 sensors, EGR open on both ends to atmosphere.

 

[RichardSkinner]

So with my 22RE starter dying at KOH and making me miss a day of wheeling/drive to landers to get another AND this 3RZ starter dying, I don’t want to mess around. I ordered a Denso reman 2.0kW to replace my current dying 1.4kW model. I’ll rebuild the 1.4kW and keep as a spare.

1.4kW measures about 6” from the mounting surface to the back of the body.
2.0kW is about 7.5” for same dimension.
2.0kW Denso PN 280-0181, $140.99 at rock auto with core charge.

It fits in just fine. I’m a little concerned there could be a cable size difference on the “cold weather” trucks these 2.0kW came on. Thinking about beefing that wire up before I run it.

I couldn’t find much info on the difference of the cold weather trucks as far as wiring. Rough calcs of 2000watts at 12.6v is 158 Amps vs 1400watts at 12.6v being 111 Amps.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

ground cable looks like the same size as mine. I can't really see the other wire/cable to the starter. My truck is the "cold weather" version. I have three starters, one of which is the original. I switch them out at various times and take a look at the contacts etc. I only notice harder starts below -20C, which I'm not out in as much these days.