Review: Delta VS Panhard Lift Bracket

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Good info. I spoke to DVS and provided measurements, they advised the 5” bracket. My Slee 4” HD progressive coils lift my rig more than 5” when unloaded, which is the case most of the time. I have room for a 5” rise based on my home made bumpstop drops. And, actually, I’m debating just making my own riser anyway. I know the DVS unit is a very nice, simple solution but I would enjoy the project.

For reference for others, I measure 25.25” hub to fender wrapped around a 37” tire on 3.5” backspace.

I think “back to factory geometry” is never an automatic statement, because your suspension is not traveling within factory designed arcs. If I were Delta, I wouldn’t be saying that it’s designed for 2-3” of lift for the standard part since it’s clearly good up to 4”.

Not saying don’t do more - I have 2” bumpstop extensions that perfectly protect my shocks with eye adapters and I could have fit more - but I think there’s some solution looking for a problem there and longer lever arms aren’t automatically neutral.

Delta’s own pics show about the angle I have remaining. Obviously there’s a point where the angles are still decent and if it fits, why not?

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Also, I retained my adjustable panhard for the reason of pinion angle changes so that tiny bit of remaining adjustment to have the axle perfectly centered was simple enough.
 
For reference for others, I measure 25.25” hub to fender wrapped around a 37” tire on 3.5” backspace.

I think “back to factory geometry” is never an automatic statement, because your suspension is not traveling within factory designed arcs. If I were Delta, I wouldn’t be saying that it’s designed for 2-3” of lift for the standard part since it’s clearly good up to 4”.

Not saying don’t do more - I have 2” bumpstop extensions that perfectly protect my shocks with eye adapters and I could have fit more - but I think there’s some solution looking for a problem there and longer lever arms aren’t automatically neutral.

Delta’s own pics show about the angle I have remaining. Obviously there’s a point where the angles are still decent and if it fits, why not?

View attachment 1747211

Also, I retained my adjustable panhard for the reason of pinion angle changes so that tiny bit of remaining adjustment to have the axle perfectly centered was simple enough.
my track bars had a slight angle to them pre-lift so it stands to reason that a small angle is appropriate but my measurements indicate that with a 5" riser, my track bar would still not be perfectly flat but probably would be once loaded for adventure.

Edit: Why does Mud insist on using the term "panhard" rather than track bar?
 
Why does Mud insist on using the term "panhard" rather than track bar?
"A Panhard rod (also called Panhard bar, track bar, or track rod) is a suspension link that provides lateral location of the axle.[1] Originally invented by the Panhard automobile company of France in the early twentieth century, this device has been widely used ever since." -Wikipedia
 
Because track bar does not make sense, the track is the distance between the 2 tire on 1 axle, a panhard bar does not adjust the track. Lateral axle locating bar would be the most correct...but no one is gonna call it that.
 
Because track bar does not make sense, the track is the distance between the 2 tire on 1 axle, a panhard bar does not adjust the track. Lateral axle locating bar would be the most correct...but no one is gonna call it that.
Other manufacturer refer to it as a track bar. It will adjust track laterally.
Because track bar does not make sense, the track is the distance between the 2 tire on 1 axle, a panhard bar does not adjust the track. Lateral axle locating bar would be the most correct...but no one is gonna call it that.
Read post #82. @Spike beat me to it. Was about to post the same exact info. Panhard is a brand name not a real word in the dictionary. Track bar is the generic name of that suspension part. I always felt like Panhard was a ghey term, now I know why, it’s a French dudes name.
 
Are your springs heavies or mediums?

Thanks for the pic and mine are the heavies. The air bags are there for the times when I tow a 400# tongue weight trailer.
 
Because track bar does not make sense, the track is the distance between the 2 tire on 1 axle, a panhard bar does not adjust the track. Lateral axle locating bar would be the most correct...but no one is gonna call it that.

That’s what the FSM calls it. Toyota people have to call it a panhard because Toyota people refuse to acknowledge anything that isn’t Toyota and that word is in the Toyota lexicon.

I agree we should be calling it a trackbar, or maybe just “Chevy 63s” since those would actually solve all of these problems while providing progressive load bearing and stability for a linked front end, but then those things are like a trackbar or shock pin to eye adapters and we can’t talk about them.
 
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had to modify (remove some material) from the ABS cable retainer (mount) on the inward side near the top of the left upper control arm mount in order to get the bracket to align properly. wasn't a big deal just used some tin snips. Nice product looks well made. the kids took it out and flexed it some Sunday. they checked it a few times no contact, rubbing or issue were noted.

you can see in the picture below where i had to trim the ABS wire bracket

OME heavies with 25mm spacer front and 10mm space rear. 1" body lift and Fox shocks

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had to modify (remove some material) from the ABS cable retainer (mount) on the inward side near the top of the left upper control arm mount in order to get the bracket to align properly. wasn't a big deal just used some tin snips. Nice product looks well made. the kids took it out and flexed it some Sunday. they checked it a few times no contact, rubbing or issue were noted.

Please post up your pic like the ones above. Always nice to have more data points and pls update your sig line with the lift you're running! Thx.
 
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Flexed up the rear today to see how much the Delta bracket had fixed the uneven stuff to the DS with a longer adjustable panhard.

Perfectly even on both sides now instead of stuffing further out on the DS.

I have a couple minor rub points that I need to massage still, but this did exactly what I wanted.
 
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@Nay can you tell a difference around town?
 
@Nay, where are the before and after pics? :flipoff2:
 
Excellent pics, thanks dude.
 
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Any suggestion on what to do when the old captive nut on the axle for the panhard breaks loose when you are tightening it? It is fully boxed in and I cant get to the backside...

P.S. might also want to note in the instructions that the ABS wire has to move while installing.

Please update on your solution to this. If I end up installing one of these brackets, I am sooo expecting this same thing to happen to me.
 
Please update on your solution to this. If I end up installing one of these brackets, I am sooo expecting this same thing to happen to me.

So I guess I ended up getting "lucky", I pulled on the bolt with a pickle fork while turning it just hoping it would come loose with the extra friction, once I got it apart the captive nut was still welded in place.

The bolt had just sheered off the first couple threads some how and they were stuck to the bolt. (Maybe it was cross threaded, even though it didn't feel like it, maybe the threads had been stretched, idk) This trashed the bolt and nut and made it a pain to get out.

I bought a M18 fine tap and ran it though the captive nut... and used other longer bolt that you are supposed to trash, with a couple washers to make up the length difference. Since it only has a couple threads left in the nut (about 4-5 turns), I only tightened it to ~100ftlbs. I marked the bolt and it has yet to move.

If it does move I might try loctite, or might end up with a tack weld on that bolt.

Other than that the bracket seem really well made and works as described.
 
Please update on your solution to this. If I end up installing one of these brackets, I am sooo expecting this same thing to happen to me.
Why would you be expecting this to happen? I have never had a captive nut break loose on either of the 80’s I’ve done extensive work on.
 
Why would you be expecting this to happen? I have never had a captive nut break loose on either of the 80’s I’ve done extensive work on.

R U S T

It's everywhere on my truck. One example: The hitch mount bolts broke off inside my frame when I was puting the new rear bumper on. I had to chisel off the weld nuts in the frame rails and slide in some metal bar with new weld nuts inside the frame rails to install it.

The front is OK because of leaking oil and steering fluid. Haha But the back of the truck all the fasteners are really rusted everywhere. I always get nervous about servicing components back there.

*edit* Another example, when I took off the side step mounting brackets, I had 2 of the captive nuts inside the body break free and spin and another bolt or two that just broke but without breaking the captive nut.
 
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