Review: Delta VS Panhard Lift Bracket

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woody said:
The front panhard MUST match the drag link....so unless you want to redesign your steering, best to do an adjustable front panhard.

I actually asked @Delta VS this same question at Overland Expo, and as soon as I heard their reasoning, realized what I had just asked :)

(and yes, I pulled the 80 on the rack long enough to install this today...lol...will get serious about Rubithon prep on Sunday, but nothing fell off...yet...)
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But have you actually looked at the front end geometry? Stock sucks track and drag are different lengths with different angles at a stock height. Lift and it just gets worst. It gives me anxiety, I ignore it for now but will be addressed some day. Even thought about making a kit to try and offer up but to many other projects in the works.
 
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goranvolvo said:
so you add that bracket and all god , next thing you want bumper , tire carrier ... than you screwed ,you need new bracket another 250 $ totaling 500 $ , but if you have adjustable one pull one bolt out adjust in 15 min and you're good to go i do not see much benefit from that bracket
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Screwed? No, just add spacers to keep your lift height the same. Or use your brain and know you will be adding weight via bumpers etc and order the appropriate bracket for your adjusted amount of lift.

I have ~6" of lift and could use a 3-4" bracket (if they don't offer a 6") and then adjust my panhard length to center it for my lift size. Yes, this involves buying both a bracket and having an adjustable panhard. It may not be perfect, but it would make the panhard more parallel to the axle and improve handling and road maneuvers I'm sure.
 
Jason Andrews said:
Screwed? No, just add spacers to keep your lift height the same. Or use your brain and know you will be adding weight via bumpers etc and order the appropriate bracket for your adjusted amount of lift.

I have ~6" of lift and could use a 3-4" bracket (if they don't offer a 6") and then adjust my panhard length to center it for my lift size. Yes, this involves buying both a bracket and having an adjustable panhard. It may not be perfect, but it would make the panhard more parallel to the axle and improve handling and road maneuvers I'm sure.
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Mother Brain
 
ajax1 said:
Mother Brain
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To use these brackets and not require an adjustable panhard the panhard should be parrellel to the frame after installing the bracket.

From my measurements that puts a limit on up travel to 4.5".

My truck as of now has a 4" lift, 35" tires and 2" drop blocks on the axle bump stops. I can fully stuff the tire to the stops and it only rubs the side of the frame a little. With this setup i have 5.5" of up travel.

I personally would run a 3" bracket to maintain my uptravel and forgo any adjustable panhard as that 1" will have very little to do with any axle offset.

.02
 
thanks for the review Woody. I been waiting for someone to make one of these for me. Nice simple design as well.
 
landtank said:
To use these brackets and not require an adjustable panhard the panhard should be parrellel to the frame after installing the bracket.

From my measurements that puts a limit on up travel to 4.5".

My truck as of now has a 4" lift, 35" tires and 2" drop blocks on the axle bump stops. I can fully stuff the tire to the stops and it only rubs the side of the frame a little. With this setup i have 5.5" of up travel.

I personally would run a 3" bracket to maintain my uptravel and forgo any adjustable panhard as that 1" will have very little to do with any axle offset.

.02
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The problem of dropping the bump stop 2 inches(or even more) and not lower the shock mount is it only up travel is limited but the over all travel on the shock will lose close to an inch. An inch may not sound like much but with only 5.5 inch of up travel and losing 1 inch is over 20% up travel lost. Since the people are Into fancy shocks the last bit of travel has significant ramp up, by losing that you don’t get the advantage of the fancy shocks and have harsh bottom out.

The more I think about it the more I loath the idea of losing travel and maybe the bracket isn’t a great idea after all.....for me since it’s not my DD.
 
Old school OME J springs and L shocks. 315 toyo mt's. 1 and 3/4" bump stop spacers to prevent bottoming out. The tires scrape the frame and wheel well when stuffed. When the legs are stretched out the spring slightly unseats. Not gonna get much better than that.
 
Devil's Slide Doug said:
I just saw Woody in Rubicon springs but forgot to ask how the pan hard bracket functioned or how well it absorbed the hits on the Rubicon trail.
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Hopefully we’ll get a trail report from him soon!
 
There is not report to give...lol...it worked as expected. Zero issues on the trail, everything stayed tight and secure. Handling is noticeably improved on road over 1300 miles of driving to/from the Rubicon.

The side-to-side shift of a non-parallel track/panhard bar (magnified by a part-time conversion) as you enter/exit the throttle has vanished.

I call that a win :)
 
Caster is the likely culprit...but hard braking would raise the rear suspension and a panhard that starts parallel should also mean less rear shift when it unloads. Still, confirm caster first.

I did rear brakes just prior to Rubithon and new calipers/pads helped a ton...one caliper was sticking, all pads were worn and due.

Fronts are next, due for a rebuild anyways.
 
Castor is good, as is toe in. Switched from worn out poly bushings to oem bushings and plates. Calipers/rotors serviced/replaced. Replacing bent lower control arms also helped with tracking in general. It is a subtle pull when braking hard. With front and rear panhards being criss crossed, side to side leaning motion would cause each end to travel opposite lateral directions. When front and rear end lift or drop relative to each other, the axles should travel the same direction laterally due to being mounted on opposite sides?
 
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