Replaced Throttle Cable, Sticks worse now

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SmokingRocks

hopelessly addicted to Cruisers
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Oct 6, 2014
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I've got a 6 hr round trip drive this weekend so I spent some time fixing some items. In short I just finished a two night grind replacing my alternator, fixing a bunch of electrical issues and a couple air and oil leaks. Well I was feeling industrious and thought I'd replace the throttle cable since it was sticky.

Pretty straight forward job, finished it up and now it sticks about 10 times worse. Im so frustrated its unreal. Anyone else deal with this?
 
Im cleaning the throttle body right now. Hasn't seemed to help that much. Its a Pioneer Automotive Cable. I didn't know there was a stupid one to buy, I mean how hard can a throttle cable be to make?
 
There is no resistance in the cable, and minimal at the TB. There is a grinding sound at the pedal, I thought it was the cable but when I hand actuate the throttle at the throttle body the cable slides back in the sheath smooth as butter. I think the pivot point for the pedal itself is worn out.
 
Could be full of dirt and carpet ravelings. Shouldn't be too hard to pull it out for a cleanup and lube job. John
 
Lube the pedal pivot point with some PB Blaster and see if that helps.
 
I sprayed it with some silicone based lube we use in our door shop, didn't seem to help much. Its strange, it sounds like its binding at the pedal but when I first noticed it the problem was definitely at the TB side. The TB stuck wide open when it was cold. So a sticky TB sure could be a reality, but I sprayed the thing down pretty well this morning and the binding sound is coming from the pedal. IDK if the sound is being transmitted through the cable from the TB. I guess it theoretically could? I guess I'll pull the pedal off at lunch and see if I can remove it from the list of possible issues.
 
Yea, totally not the pedal. I'm leaning toward the cable just sucking hard, the actual cable is not coated with anything which could be the problem. I think OEM cables are coated with teflon or some kind of anti-bind coating.
 
Wish I read that before I ordered the POS Rock Auto one. Wasn't right length. Had to send it back. Huge waste of time and $.
 
damn I searched but didnt pull up that thread... Oh well.

Also it is most certainly that POS cable. I injected a bunch of 75-90 and it at least works now. Why do they sell this s***?
 
Wish I read that before I ordered the POS Rock Auto one. Wasn't right length. Had to send it back. Huge waste of time and $.

Not the right length? Rock Auto missed the measure twice, cut once memo.
 
Last night I installed a new Throttle Cable. This is the 3rd time I have had one out.

My Notes:
  • Do everything in Cab Portion before doing Anything in Engine Bay Portion
  • Remove the Pedal using an 3/8 Extension chucked in your drill. Takes 2 seconds. All bolts are 10mm socket
  • Remember that bracket has rubber bumper on bottom when reinstalling
  • Cover cable with high temp split loom to keep cover from cooking off again
  • Adjust cable on throttle till it just takes up slack, if it increase idle you have went to far
I compared new cable to old. New cable you can hold sleeve up in air. Now grab the inner cable and lift it. In new cable gravity was enough to cause cable to slide. In old it would not slide. You can use this as a gauge of new vs old.

1st I tried lubing cable with chain and sprocket dry lube, no improvement.

Next tried hanging cable from ceiling and spraying carb cleaner in it thinking it was a contamination issue, no improvement

The Sheath is missing on the old one.
 
Sometimes OEM Genuine parts is the only way to go. And this is one of it, you actually safe more ( time/hassle = money ) by going OEM the first place. Thanks for sharing the info though.
 

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