Remflex question

[jjenloe]

I finally finished replacing the manifold gasket with a Remflex gasket. The very last thing to tighten was the exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe stud and it snapped off. Shame on me for not replacing it while it was out. I am thinking it would be easier to simply remove the manifold again to drill it out. My question is, can you reuse Remflex gaskets?

 

[brian]

nope

 

[65swb45]

Consider yourself lucky and take the opportunity to ditch the Remflex.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

You Cannot Re-Tourque a rem flex , even on a cold install , and you have not started the engine yet ,,,,,,,,

- as far as your manifold to down pipe stud :

- OEM studs are a high carbon steel , and resist drilling out , even with a Tiatanium high dollar drill bit , you can smoke bits only after less then a minute of drilling

when u remove manifold again , you have a 50 / 50 shot that a part of the stud will be sticking out proud of the manifold , if so you can take a OEM new exhaust nut and WELD is to the broke above the surface stud tip ...

you must pre-heat stud as much as possible prior to welding , if not
you will get any Metal to metal welding perpetration

pre-heated allows the weld to flow and penetrate right away , and results
in a solid bond between stud and hex nut welded to it

you don't need a fancy OXY torch set up

the Yellow MAP GAS torch set up Home depot sells will get the broke stud
plenty Cherry RED just prior to plug and slot welding your NUT on ...

like this :

good luck , you can do it !

​

 

[jjenloe]

You Cannot Re-Tourque a rem flex , even on a cold install , and you have not started the engine yet ,,,,,,,,

- as far as your manifold to down pipe stud :

- OEM studs are a high carbon steel , and resist drilling out , even with a Tiatanium high dollar drill bit , you can smoke bits only after less then a minute of drilling

when u remove manifold again , you have a 50 / 50 shot that a part of the stud will be sticking out proud of the manifold , if so you can take a OEM new exhaust nut and WELD is to the broke above the surface stud tip ...

you must pre-heat stud as much as possible prior to welding , if not
you will get any Metal to metal welding perpetration

pre-heated allows the weld to flow and penetrate right away , and results
in a solid bond between stud and hex nut welded to it

you don't need a fancy OXY torch set up

the Yellow MAP GAS torch set up Home depot sells will get the broke stud
plenty Cherry RED just prior to plug and slot welding your NUT on ...

like this :

good luck , you can do it !

View attachment 2302394
​

You Cannot Re-Tourque a rem flex , even on a cold install , and you have not started the engine yet ,,,,,,,,

- as far as your manifold to down pipe stud :

- OEM studs are a high carbon steel , and resist drilling out , even with a Tiatanium high dollar drill bit , you can smoke bits only after less then a minute of drilling

when u remove manifold again , you have a 50 / 50 shot that a part of the stud will be sticking out proud of the manifold , if so you can take a OEM new exhaust nut and WELD is to the broke above the surface stud tip ...

you must pre-heat stud as much as possible prior to welding , if not
you will get any Metal to metal welding perpetration

pre-heated allows the weld to flow and penetrate right away , and results
in a solid bond between stud and hex nut welded to it

you don't need a fancy OXY torch set up

the Yellow MAP GAS torch set up Home depot sells will get the broke stud
plenty Cherry RED just prior to plug and slot welding your NUT on ...

like this :

good luck , you can do it !


I did not know this. I squirted some penatrant in the hole, so with any luck it might come out with ease...

View attachment 2302394
​

You Cannot Re-Tourque a rem flex , even on a cold install , and you have not started the engine yet ,,,,,,,,

- as far as your manifold to down pipe stud :

- OEM studs are a high carbon steel , and resist drilling out , even with a Tiatanium high dollar drill bit , you can smoke bits only after less then a minute of drilling

when u remove manifold again , you have a 50 / 50 shot that a part of the stud will be sticking out proud of the manifold , if so you can take a OEM new exhaust nut and WELD is to the broke above the surface stud tip ...

you must pre-heat stud as much as possible prior to welding , if not
you will get any Metal to metal welding perpetration

pre-heated allows the weld to flow and penetrate right away , and results
in a solid bond between stud and hex nut welded to it

you don't need a fancy OXY torch set up

the Yellow MAP GAS torch set up Home depot sells will get the broke stud
plenty Cherry RED just prior to plug and slot welding your NUT on ...

like this :

good luck , you can do it !

That kinda sucks on a whole new level. Thanks for the info.
I sprayed some PB Blaster in the hole on top of the broken stud. With an luck after a few days of soaking, it will come out with an extractor. There is about 10mm of stud sticking out of the manifold. If that doesn't snap off the nub, I will track down a welder to use and try your method. If by chance it fails and snaps off the nub, what is another way of extracting the stud out?

View attachment 2302394
​

 

[jjenloe]

Apparently I don't know how to reply to threads....
That kinda sucks on a whole new level. Thanks for the info.
I sprayed some PB Blaster in the hole on top of the broken stud. With an luck after a few days of soaking, it will come out with an extractor. There is about 10mm of stud sticking out of the manifold. If that doesn't snap off the nub, I will track down a welder to use and try your method. If by chance it fails and snaps off the nub, what is another way of extracting the stud out?

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Consider yourself lucky and take the opportunity to ditch the Remflex.

Really Mark? Can you expound on this?

 

[jjenloe]

Really Mark? Can you expound on this?

You Cannot Re-Tourque a rem flex , even on a cold install , and you have not started the engine yet ,,,,,,,,

- as far as your manifold to down pipe stud :

- OEM studs are a high carbon steel , and resist drilling out , even with a Tiatanium high dollar drill bit , you can smoke bits only after less then a minute of drilling

when u remove manifold again , you have a 50 / 50 shot that a part of the stud will be sticking out proud of the manifold , if so you can take a OEM new exhaust nut and WELD is to the broke above the surface stud tip ...

you must pre-heat stud as much as possible prior to welding , if not
you will get any Metal to metal welding perpetration

pre-heated allows the weld to flow and penetrate right away , and results
in a solid bond between stud and hex nut welded to it

you don't need a fancy OXY torch set up

the Yellow MAP GAS torch set up Home depot sells will get the broke stud
plenty Cherry RED just prior to plug and slot welding your NUT on ...

like this :

good luck , you can do it !

View attachment 2302394
​

You Cannot Re-Tourque a rem flex , even on a cold install , and you have not started the engine yet ,,,,,,,,

- as far as your manifold to down pipe stud :

- OEM studs are a high carbon steel , and resist drilling out , even with a Tiatanium high dollar drill bit , you can smoke bits only after less then a minute of drilling

when u remove manifold again , you have a 50 / 50 shot that a part of the stud will be sticking out proud of the manifold , if so you can take a OEM new exhaust nut and WELD is to the broke above the surface stud tip ...

you must pre-heat stud as much as possible prior to welding , if not
you will get any Metal to metal welding perpetration

pre-heated allows the weld to flow and penetrate right away , and results
in a solid bond between stud and hex nut welded to it

you don't need a fancy OXY torch set up

the Yellow MAP GAS torch set up Home depot sells will get the broke stud
plenty Cherry RED just prior to plug and slot welding your NUT on ...

like this :

good luck , you can do it !

View attachment 2302394
​

You Cannot Re-Tourque a rem flex , even on a cold install , and you have not started the engine yet ,,,,,,,,

- as far as your manifold to down pipe stud :

- OEM studs are a high carbon steel , and resist drilling out , even with a Tiatanium high dollar drill bit , you can smoke bits only after less then a minute of drilling

when u remove manifold again , you have a 50 / 50 shot that a part of the stud will be sticking out proud of the manifold , if so you can take a OEM new exhaust nut and WELD is to the broke above the surface stud tip ...

you must pre-heat stud as much as possible prior to welding , if not
you will get any Metal to metal welding perpetration

pre-heated allows the weld to flow and penetrate right away , and results
in a solid bond between stud and hex nut welded to it

you don't need a fancy OXY torch set up

the Yellow MAP GAS torch set up Home depot sells will get the broke stud
plenty Cherry RED just prior to plug and slot welding your NUT on ...

like this :

good luck , you can do it !


I did not know this. I squirted some penatrant in the hole, so with any luck it might come out with ease...

View attachment 2302394
​

I was wondering the same thing since a majority of the clan approves the F them

 

[65swb45]

Remflex=snake oil. Type in a thread search query with remflex and my username and you will see I have been consistent about this from Day 1.

1.Any quality manifold gasket will have a sealing band around the exhaust ports to help with the heat and pressure at the initial contact point; Remflex has none.
2. A quality gasket will deform to help with surface irregularities. Remflex does not compress.
3. Doubling up an exhaust gasket increases the chance of leakage. Remflex is a cheap, un-banded, doubled up gasket.

4. I don’t consider it my job to correct all the misinformation on the internet. But in the case of Remflex, I consider the product to be SO inferior I chose not to let the misinformation stand unopposed. I will never forget how frustrated @kellyo and I were tracking down his engine miss, right up to the point where I finally unbolted the manifolds and watched that Remflex POS fall to the ground in SEVEN different pieces!

 

[hobbes]

I forgot, which do you recommend Mark?

 

[thebigredrocker]

For manifold gaskets I won't use anything but Felpro.


Mark...

One good Felpro gasket, flat manifolds, good fasteners, torqued to the top end of the spec.

 

[brian]

yeap felpro all the way.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

I have had extremely good results with Remflex when installing after market headers. I also used one on a Ford 300 straight 6 to install FI exhaust manifolds. I can say that I have observed them compress. They go from about a 1/4 inch to an 1/8.

I generally never would disagree with Mark but I guess I have to disagree with the guru on this based on my far more limited but good experiences. Maybe I am just lucky?

I would say that if you have proper flat, even surfaces and installing stock manifolds I would agree Felpro would be the way to go.

I know doubling up the gaskets is no good and have never understood when I read people saying to do that.

 

[Advrider639]

Man I have a remflex sitting in the package on my shelf waiting to go on next time I have the manifold off.... I have always been told they are the way to go. Especially when you have a header (i do).

I am interested to see how this conversation pans out.

 

[Hugh Heifer]

Man I have a remflex sitting in the package on my shelf waiting to go on next time I have the manifold off.... I have always been told they are the way to go. Especially when you have a header (i do).

I am interested to see how this conversation pans out.

Keep in mind Mark has his own shop and has forgotten far more about Cruisers than I will ever know. I just was sharing my different but positive experiences. I will continue to use them based on my needs and based on my experiences. I will reassess if one fails me. There is certainly no substitute for good mating surfaces and a Felpro.

 

[jjenloe]

I too am a Felpro fan, but my manifold did not have a flat mating surface. Without a competent machine shop locally, this was what I decided to try out. Other than the snafu of the stud breaking, which seems to be working fine with only 2 bolts holding it, the Remflex has sealed. Time will tell I guess.

 

[bhsdriller]

Same here I had good luck with the Remflex, zero problems

 

[emac]

I removed a ton of broken fasteners on the 40 by welding a nut to them. The heat of welding helps to loosen the bolt. I am a big fan of Aerokroil for rusty stuff. All kinds of opinions on gasket sealing. I tried several header gaskets and finally took it to a shop and had the intake and header machined flat, then I took @Downey advice and used the brush on coppercoat sealant on all surfaces. Good stuff. I cant recall which gasket I ended up using, maybe remflex, but it finally sealed. Take your time and you will get the stud out.