Recovering front seats- need help! (3 Viewers)

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Happy New Year! I purchased seat covers from Cruiser Corps which seem great and foam from SOR. I have searched a lot but can't find a good video or picture of where to connect the hog rings for these seats.

Any help is much appreciated!!

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Maybe midfat will take some pic's for you of his.

I don't know if the hog rings are for fabric to metal frame connection. Personally I think the rings tear fabric because the hole they make are too big and unsupported. Screws with large area washers in the metal threw "tabs" you attach to the fabric if needed to reach the screw positions.

I like the paracord in the enclosed tunnel so you can cinch it tight over the frame - no weak spots that way. A second approach is install grommets and sew the perimeter loop with paracord and cinch it tight.
 
I recently did my driver's seat bottom for my 1978 FJ40. Make sure you have wire run through the border of the seat cover. If you don't have OEM wire then use some household wiring - strip some 14-2 or such and harvest a length of wire from that. Start by securing the top surface through the pad to the top of the seat frame. You need a 10-11" long wire and there is a place for 4-6 hog rings. It was very difficult to get the wire close to start. My hog ring pliers sucked at getting the rings starting to bend and I found that needle nose vice grips got the ring starting to bend and then switched back to the hog ring pliers to finish the bend. Those first two for the top surface tuck were a B word!
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Once that is done you flip it over and start bending hog rings in a crisscross manner to keep the seatcover centered and even. I couldn't get all the rings on at every loop and there are a couple bare ones. This is what the previous cover that I replaced looked like:
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These are the only pics I took during the job. Hope this helps.
 
Happy New Year! I purchased seat covers from Cruiser Corps which seem great and foam from SOR. I have searched a lot but can't find a good video or picture of where to connect the hog rings for these seats.

Any help is much appreciated!!

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I take it this is an early split bench? I believe the covers are screwed onto the bases (as @charliemeyer007 suggested), and hog ringed on the backs. At least the 3 I’ve recovered were that way. Tried looking through my pics and only have some of the 71 I did before I stripped them down. I don’t think these particular covers were oem but were attached the same as other sets I’ve done.

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Scott I just saw your posting so this might be too late. Here is how I did it last May after a lot of research (mainly on this forum).

First is photo of the original passenger seat foam. You can see how the springs were eating into the foam.
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To prevent this I used a material used for lining car trunks, Very durable and flexible. this is hog ringed to the metal border piece on the seat frame. You will also notice how I filled the spring coils with a dense foam for extra seat firmness.
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On top of the trunk liner I glued the new seat foam.
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To the seat foam I glued a denser foam apron to retain the seat shape on the edges.
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The new cover was then placed over this assembly and held in place with screws and beauty rings on the bottom.
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I am very please with the end result and love the comfort level of it.
 
Scott I just saw your posting so this might be too late. Here is how I did it last May after a lot of research (mainly on this forum).

First is photo of the original passenger seat foam. You can see how the springs were eating into the foam.
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To prevent this I used a material used for lining car trunks, Very durable and flexible. this is hog ringed to the metal border piece on the seat frame. You will also notice how I filled the spring coils with a dense foam for extra seat firmness.
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On top of the trunk liner I glued the new seat foam.
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To the seat foam I glued a denser foam apron to retain the seat shape on the edges.
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The new cover was then placed over this assembly and held in place with screws and beauty rings on the bottom.
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I am very please with the end result and love the comfort level of it.
@RMD3050 hey thanks for the detail here- could you quantify how firm the foam in the springs makes the overall seat? I put pool noodle inside mine, and have SOR foam to put over it, but don't want it "rock hard". Thanks!
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@RMD3050 hey thanks for the detail here- could you quantify how firm the foam in the springs makes the overall seat? I put pool noodle inside mine, and have SOR foam to put over it, but don't want it "rock hard". Thanks! View attachment 3935446
@RMD3050 hey thanks for the detail here- could you quantify how firm the foam in the springs makes the overall seat? I put pool noodle inside mine, and have SOR foam to put over it, but don't want it "rock hard". Thanks! View attachment 3935446
@CBFJ from what I know about pool noodles they are very dense. I wouldn’t consider them a ‘foam’. What I used was an approximately 3/4” thick dense foam rolled up and inserted in the individual springs. This foam though dense was still very ‘squishable’ (to use a technical term) and the end result is firm but comfortable seat which is what I was hoping for. I hope this helps.
 
I put medium density foam in the outer coils for firmness and it was almost too much firmness. I would think the pool noodles are going to be too firm.
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Just my opinion. Hope it works for you.
 
I did do custom foam. I had originally bought the SOR foam and covers in ‘03 and they held up well for about 15 years but the driver’s seat was always too soft. I ordered some sheets of medium foam in 1” and 2” thickness, some batting and the glue. I only used the glue for the bottom rails and it kept the seat covers from pulling at the screws. I didn’t run wire.
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This is how the SOR foam ended up.
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Edit: I did use the new foam in addition to the SOR foam. Forgot to add that.
 
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