rebuilding a 40 in a one car garage

[paranoid56]

Thank you, I like your build too.
Do you also have a wife as an extra handicap?
She keeps ensisting her Bike must be in there and ready to take out at all times.

nope. mine knows that only my s*** gets in the garage. luckily i have been with her for a wile so shes fine with all my crap lol

 

[rusty_tlc]

I saw your post in Chicago's thread, my MT cage rear hoop measures ~51" C to C it sits in from the tub 3". Sorry it took so long for me to get you that info.

 

[waiting for time]

I saw your post in Chicago's thread, my MT cage rear hoop measures ~51" C to C it sits in from the tub 3". Sorry it took so long for me to get you that info.

Thanks Dan, now I can continu with my fenders.

 

[waiting for time]

Little bit done, had a wedding to go to. Never bin to a gay wedding before, quite interesting but glad my wife was with me.
Worked on the support for the cage and the hinge treads.

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[waiting for time]

Also got some scrap arround the edge off the "poor mans" plasma table.

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[waiting for time]

And to finish the inside of the C pillar.
I plan to weld some nuts on the inside of the door opening so I can mount a frame to use barn doors for when the top is is off.

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[SHUSH]

your welding skills and PATIENCE blow my mind...looking good

 

[rusty_tlc]

I'd try to make the door hinge nuts captive instead of welding them. Having removed and installed my old Hard top many time I appreciate why Toyota made them that way from the factory, that little bit of play helps a lot when you are lining things up.

 

[waiting for time]

I'd try to make the door hinge nuts captive instead of welding them. Having removed and installed my old Hard top many time I appreciate why Toyota made them that way from the factory, that little bit of play helps a lot when you are lining things up.

I know but this needs to be in there very solid and will pull in the direction the play will be. this sounds strange when I see it.
I plan on fabbing brackets that fit tight in the door frame of the tub and are attached to the original hinghe point and the welded nuts. So the hinges will be attached to these brackets, so the weight of the doors is going to pull from these nuts.

 

[rusty_tlc]

What's cookin' on your build?

I'm considering re-skinning the rear 1/4 panels on my truck this winter and look to this build for inspiration. I have about the same amount of room to work on my rig.

 

[waiting for time]

What's cookin' on your build?

I'm considering re-skinning the rear 1/4 panels on my truck this winter and look to this build for inspiration. I have about the same amount of room to work on my rig.

I'm having some obligations in the family and then there is work, it kept me from getting stuff done.
Looking at a new mig which I can use for mig soldering, CuSi-3, so there will be less heat in the metal.
Last 2 weeks I only did some small stuff and worked on improving the garage.
Next saturday will be a cruiser day again.
Are you shure you want to open the back of your rig?
Before you know it you are replacing the entire rear half of it.

I will try to finish the back before winter so you'll have your inspiration.

 

[waiting for time]

And another Saturday down the drain on obligations.
Luckily Sunday was better, weather, then predicted.
So I decided to do some cleaning in the garage and made a dispenser for the pads that go on my new 2" grinder (thanks for the tip Kevin aka Awl-teq)
Found a spot on the wall to mount it.

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[waiting for time]

Started on building the right rear fender/wheel well.
At least started on the mocking up.

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[rusty_tlc]

Sorry if you covered this earlier in the thread but how are you forming the radius on the flat corner pieces?

 

[waiting for time]

Sorry if you covered this earlier in the thread but how are you forming the radius on the flat corner pieces?

I have a peace of "trainrail" Anvil and in this case the curve of my big silent hammer.
I just bend peace by peace until the radius is correct.
For the rear corners I use a peace of cardboard I traced from the upper rail.

 

[waiting for time]

Here are some pics.
The anvil is round on top so you don't get sharp edges in your fold.

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[bikersmurf]

I have a peace of "trainrail" Anvil and in this case the curve of my big silent hammer.
I just bend peace by peace until the radius is correct.
For the rear corners I use a peace of cardboard I traced from the upper rail.

Very impressive Michael!

How high is that piece of rail? I'm going to have to try to get a piece myself. That is just what I need to finish off my rear tub.

I'm sure you've stated previously... But how thick (gauge) is the steel you're using for those corners?

 

[duffontap]

Now that's a nice tip on bending the rear corners. I've been thinking that I could probably figure out how to hammer a decent lower lip on the rear quarters, but I've been wondering how to get a clean radius. I've got a 12" section of that RR so I'll give it a try with some scrap tonight. Hmmmm, now I can't focus on work.

We're loving this build man--nice work!

 

[waiting for time]

Very impressive Michael!

How high is that piece of rail? I'm going to have to try to get a piece myself. That is just what I need to finish off my rear tub.

I'm sure you've stated previously... But how thick (gauge) is the steel you're using for those corners?

Its about 25 to 30 cm high.
I use 1 mm steel plate and bend by hand using the anvil as base.

 

[waiting for time]

Now that's a nice tip on bending the rear corners. I've been thinking that I could probably figure out how to hammer a decent lower lip on the rear quarters, but I've been wondering how to get a clean radius. I've got a 12" section of that RR so I'll give it a try with some scrap tonight. Hmmmm, now I can't focus on work.

We're loving this build man--nice work!

The lower lip is a straith strip bended 90 degree and then schrunk and stretched in to shape. I then welded it to the bend corner.