what year did they start making the vent style glass tops
Rear Vent Windows- worthwhile? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bikersmurf
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- #22
79 +/-
SOR lists 8/76-84 but I have no way to confirm that.
SOR lists 8/76-84 but I have no way to confirm that.
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Living in the Past
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It was the 77 model year around 8/76.
I almost always have those windows open on my '78. On my '76 it always feels stuffy and the kick vents don't vent nearly as much with nowhere for the air to go.
The sliders seem like a good idea. I was afraid to click to find out how much, and I've got a Paki top in a box, so I don't really care. Sliders would surely be less $$s.
The sliders seem like a good idea. I was afraid to click to find out how much, and I've got a Paki top in a box, so I don't really care. Sliders would surely be less $$s.
I used to break the glas vent windows all the time. they'd be open, hit a tree branch and they'd shatter. So, I made some indestructable window vents out of some 1/2" lexan. I like them, but it was hard to keep buying them after every wheeling trip.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
My 68 has a 73 hard top on it. I installed the vent window in the mid eighties. I got the parts off a wrecked 78. Cut the post and welded in my 73 top. The large pieces of glass were broken so I bought them cheap at the time from Toyota. The pre 72 top used different weather stripping and wouldn't be as easy to do. Do you know what year you top is off of?
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- Thread starter
- #28
I cut the post out of a 79?? and put in 74 window. So i know the hole starts out the same size for many years.
I can take some measurements if that would be helpful.
I can take some measurements if that would be helpful.
Letting out hot air is great, but letting out cold is important too. I think one of the real advantage of those vents is in the winter. They keep the back from fogging up, especially with a bunch of wet ski gear packed back there. That should be something helpful for you in BC. I don't latch mine, so I can open and close them from the outside of the truck right before I jump in.
My 10/76 FJ40 has them. I don't use them often as I can't reach them from the driver's seat unless I stretch a lot and pinch my leg against my Tuffy, but they do seem to help. If I had an earlier Cruiser I'd probably get some sliding windows before looking for a hardtop with the wing windows...
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- #32
Post in wanted
Tops rot out along the bottom. Someone must hove some in their scr@p pile. The harder part will be tracking down the windows and weather stripping.
Or if you get the windows, seals and hardware, you could fabricate the bar from scratch.
Tops rot out along the bottom. Someone must hove some in their scr@p pile. The harder part will be tracking down the windows and weather stripping.
Or if you get the windows, seals and hardware, you could fabricate the bar from scratch.
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That's a chronic problem in Oregon.
It only rains once a year here - September through June.
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- #34
- Thread starter
- #35
Here are the new sides, on the truck, with vent windows.
Some donor parts from the old roof are being painted, so i've not installed the new roof yet.
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- Thread starter
- #36
I can now answer my own original question. I've finished the hard top install, pictures can be seen at https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...ling-81-hardtop-onto-my-74-keeping-hatch.html
It has been raining here most days for the last month. Today I figured how the windows work best (now that my rear heater is working again). I've been opening them when I got on the road, and finding that they never really cleared well.
Today I left them partway open when I went inside, and when I came out 1/2 an hour later the windows were no longer fogged up. I left them partway open when I was driving around and even with 3 adults and two kids in the 40 the windows ALL stayed clear. The next thing to try will be RainX on the outside to help keep the outside dryer... Just need a dry day... Should be able to do them in March or so.
It has been raining here most days for the last month. Today I figured how the windows work best (now that my rear heater is working again). I've been opening them when I got on the road, and finding that they never really cleared well.
Today I left them partway open when I went inside, and when I came out 1/2 an hour later the windows were no longer fogged up. I left them partway open when I was driving around and even with 3 adults and two kids in the 40 the windows ALL stayed clear. The next thing to try will be RainX on the outside to help keep the outside dryer... Just need a dry day... Should be able to do them in March or so.
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And, as an FYI, I called SOR for an update on getting a pair of the sliding windows for Stale Ale. SOR is out of stock, and has NO ETA on when they will get another shipment.
Coolerman
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Instead of all the windows stuff, how about just putting in the vents from a BJ40? I have also thought about cutting the pop out vents from the cowl of an old FJ40 and welding those into the hard top side. Easy open and close and weather proof...
These ones....
These ones....
- Thread starter
- #39
Got those Bj vents too.
I haven't made billet covers yet, but I've got the vents. I didn't find they were enough to make up for the lack of weatherstripping around my tailgate. They could be enough if your 40 was watertight... But mines not there yet.
I haven't made billet covers yet, but I've got the vents. I didn't find they were enough to make up for the lack of weatherstripping around my tailgate. They could be enough if your 40 was watertight... But mines not there yet.
This might be a silly question, but would a sliding window from a troopie fit straight in?
