Rear shock mount bending

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To be fair, how many sets of BP-51s are in service on landcruisers with very few reports of post damage? This fact is convincing me it may be more the shock guard, with it being made possible to actually damage the post because it is made weaker by the lack of sleeve.

The sharp corners and them hanging lower is a major reason I never considered shock guards when I had kings. Yes they protect the shock, but they are also more likely to hang in the first place and transmit force.
 
To be fair, how many sets of BP-51s are in service on landcruisers with very few reports of post damage? This fact is convincing me it may be more the shock guard, with it being made possible to actually damage the post because it is made weaker by the lack of sleeve.

The sharp corners and them hanging lower is a major reason I never considered shock guards when I had kings. Yes they protect the shock, but they are also more likely to hang in the first place and transmit force.
I hear you but but that inner sleeve in the OEM bushing is substantial. It looks about 1/8” wall thickness which would add a lot of reinforcement to the mounting post. Maybe the OEM design is way overkill and it just is the combination of BP51 and the BB guards and some hits in just the right place.

So far, it’s only me and @elkeye that have reported a bent post.
 
$2.50! Best value ever.

Can you harvest the inner sleeve? It'll be a pain as the bushing is bonded. Could burn it out.

Core our the ARB bushing enough to press it in?
 
I hear you but but that inner sleeve in the OEM bushing is substantial. It looks about 1/8” wall thickness which would add a lot of reinforcement to the mounting post. Maybe the OEM design is way overkill and it just is the combination of BP51 and the BB guards and some hits in just the right place.

So far, it’s only me and @elkeye that have reported a bent post.
It would be designed not just for damper duty for us LCs but to take a substantial load at static ride height due to the shared components with AHC suspensions.

My point was just that either of these issues.. sleeve-less BP51s or the shock guards may be fine, but the combination apparently pushes the post too far.
 
$2.50! Best value ever.

Can you harvest the inner sleeve? It'll be a pain as the bushing is bonded. Could burn it out.

Core our the ARB bushing enough to press it in?

Hmmmm. Interesting idea. Not sure how I’d core the ARB bush though.
 
How does the OME shock mount? Is it just being retained by the bolt/washer? The OEM
one is bonded so bolting it tightly in place means the bushing twists as the bolt would press against the bushing which presses against the diff mount, but if the OME one isn’t then the shock bushing is rotating in the mount, right?
 
How does the OME shock mount? Is it just being retained by the bolt/washer? The OEM
one is bonded so bolting it tightly in place means the bushing twists as the bolt would press against the bushing which presses against the diff mount, but if the OME one isn’t then the shock bushing is rotating in the mount, right?
The BP51 bush is sandwiched between washers and I think would rotate on the post.
 
The BP51 bush is sandwiched between washers and I think would rotate on the post.
Ok. Then I don’t know if I’d want to try and sleeve that bushing, as the rubber compound may not hold up to twisting forces if it’s designed to flex and allow the mount to rotate inside it. You really would need to press the old one out and the OEM one in, so if the OEM one is too large you’d have to find one which is the right size. Apparently OME makes replacements for the Nitro shocks, according to CruiserOutfit, though I don’t know if it’s the same size (or even if it’s sleeved)
 
Apparently OME makes replacements for the Nitro shocks, according to CruiserOutfit, though I don’t know if it’s the same size (or even if it’s sleeved)
They aren’t sleeved.
 
Ok. Then I don’t know if I’d want to try and sleeve that bushing, as the rubber compound may not hold up to twisting forces if it’s designed to flex and allow the mount to rotate inside it. You really would need to press the old one out and the OEM one in, so if the OEM one is too large you’d have to find one which is the right size. Apparently OME makes replacements for the Nitro shocks, according to CruiserOutfit, though I don’t know if it’s the same size (or even if it’s sleeved)
agreed
 
In light of current personal events/experience, I'll be ditching the Kaon shock guards and going with a different solution.

@cosport turned me on to these...



They take a beating and keep on protecting.

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The FJC shock skids fit the 200-series?
FJTOYMAN makes the proper model to fit the 200. He just needs to know which shock you are running so he can build it right. In my case I am running KING 3.0s. The rear shock end is oversized so he had to build mine larger.
 
LOL. LMAO, even.

I've heard doctors talk about that phase in med school where you self-diagnose with every new ailment you learn about. Well, the same happens when you go to MUD school.

While catching up on @TeCKis300 threads today, I took a peek under my truck...since I probably had that thing that he was just posting about. (MUD School Effect, or MSE). And wouldn't you know it....

fark.

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I took my BudBuilt skids off yesterday to apply the annual rust preventative (Corrosion Free). It's the job I dislike the most. Truck has seen a lot of wheeling and mud this year and last. Please excuse the mud despite many undercarriage cleanings with pressure washer.

While under there on a creeper, I noticed one of my BudBuilt shock guards is bent, close to touching the BP51 piston.

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Here is the other side below (not bent).

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I'm hoping it's the BB shock guard and not the shock bolt/mounting post like mentioned above. Need to get back under there and inspect further. If the post isn't bent, then the shock guards appear to have done their job.

FWIW - Still have to put all skids back on, arghhh. Going to replace some of the original stainless steel hardware on skids with new HW Bud sent me.

@Markuson - I went to the BudBuilt site yesterday and looked at the description of their shock guards and saw reference to the "Mark II". I had BudBuilt install my shock guards around 3-4 years ago but don't recall hearing about a revision. Curious if the revision(s) came after - including the Mark II ?
 
I took my BudBuilt skids off yesterday to apply the annual rust preventative (Corrosion Free). It's the job I dislike the most. Truck has seen a lot of wheeling and mud this year and last. Please excuse the mud despite many undercarriage cleanings with pressure washer.

While under there on a creeper, I noticed one of my BudBuilt shock guards is bent, close to touching the BP51 piston.

View attachment 3475466


View attachment 3475467

Here is the other side below (not bent).

View attachment 3475468

I'm hoping it's the BB shock guard and not the shock bolt/mounting post like mentioned above. Need to get back under there and inspect further. If the post isn't bent, then the shock guards appear to have done their job.

FWIW - Still have to put all skids back on, arghhh. Going to replace some of the original stainless steel hardware on skids with new HW Bud sent me.

@Markuson - I went to the BudBuilt site yesterday and looked at the description of their shock guards and saw reference to the "Mark II". I had BudBuilt install my shock guards around 3-4 years ago but don't recall hearing about a revision. Curious if the revision(s) came after - including the Mark II ?
Your left shock may already be damaged. There is clear evidence of contact between the BB shock guard and end cap. IMO those guards need to come off before the vehicle is driven any more and evaluate the condition of the posts and shocks. Also I’m pretty sure the BB guards being bent is what fragged your OME shaft guards.
 
Doing some front-of-the-envelope math, and it does not look super good. This is w/ BP-51.

21mm - OEM bolt thread depth (from last ring to flange washer)...minus:
5mm - ARB-supplied washer/sleeve (VE70020001SP)
5mm - Trail Tailor shock guard mount
3mm (=/-) - chewed up threading inside of post (see pic below, likely due to the 10mm issues above)

7mm - of actual good thread holding the whole shebang together. I'm no engineer, but I'm calling this sub-optimal.

Visible below: what I discovered after removing the TT shock guard when I noticed the bolt had deserted. Chewed the hell out of the first 2-4mm of thread in the post.

Remediation approach: buy new rated flange bolt with 30mm thread depth to accommodate TT guard, 5mm ARB offset spacer, large washer to replace OEM, small washer to replace OEM. (see mock-up below; yes, will de-burr on final version; not chewing up my bushings with this one)

FYI for BP-51 brethren: if you lose that 5mm ARB spacer/washer, their support people will tell you to go to the hardware store for a replacement and hang up the phone. In the real world (ask me how I know), a spacer with these precise dimensions (ID12 OD19 5MM thick) is only available at a place like McMaster (see below), or you make one. I think I will just use two narrow M12 washers

Thoughts, well-wishing, or admonishments are all welcome.


(I might be a very late bloomer or a fool or both, but to protect my fragile ego I'm chalking this issue (again) up to atonement for the sins of the PO.)


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Removed the bent Bud Built shock guard.
Doesn’t appear the post is bent but I did not pull off the BP51 for thorough inspection.
Also removed the LCA guard from @turbo8 which had collected a lot of gunk. Cleaned it up.

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Removed the bent Bud Built shock guard.
Doesn’t appear the post is bent but I did not pull off the BP51 for thorough inspection.
Also removed the LCA guard from @turbo8 which had collected a lot of gunk. Cleaned it up.

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View attachment 3477996View attachment 3477997View attachment 3477998View attachment 3477999
At this time, I would clean off your lower control arms and inspect for any rust. If there is any address it and paint the control arm.

@Tex68w drilled some holes in his to allow for some drainage.
 

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