Rear Heater - Busted Valve pipe solutions? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 22, 2016
Threads
21
Messages
104
Location
Venice, CA
I've been working on my cooling system and finding micro leaks. The biggest one was coming from the rear heater. The hose dry rotted to the pipe, which I believe was already cracked and deformed even before I got to wrestling with it. Regardless, this is where I am at. The heater worked and I'd like to get it back in there, but what options do I have for replacing this pipe?

This line goes into the valve, which then has a connector before it goes into the core. Looks like the valve pn is 87240-90A01 and has the pipe, but is discontinued. I'm going to give a Japanese source a chance, unless there is an easier solution.

Also, if I wanted to get things going in the mean time, is there any reason I can't put a bypass hose connected the two lines where the heater is?

IMG_6028 (1).jpg
 
Just plug both lines for the time being, no problem as that is what the circulation valve would do when closed. Putting in a jumper would just heat the hose loop.
 
I've been working on my cooling system and finding micro leaks. The biggest one was coming from the rear heater. The hose dry rotted to the pipe, which I believe was already cracked and deformed even before I got to wrestling with it. Regardless, this is where I am at. The heater worked and I'd like to get it back in there, but what options do I have for replacing this pipe?

This line goes into the valve, which then has a connector before it goes into the core. Looks like the valve pn is 87240-90A01 and has the pipe, but is discontinued. I'm going to give a Japanese source a chance, unless there is an easier solution.

Also, if I wanted to get things going in the mean time, is there any reason I can't put a bypass hose connected the two lines where the heater is?

View attachment 2483556


please clarify is this a 60 or 62 , what year and exact [production date on data id plate door jamb please

i have options for you , but i need the tech fact first

matt
 
Got it. So coolant does not need to flow there?


if you want to be warm inside this winter coolant will need to flow

if you can wear a NORTH FACE while driving , then no coolant needs to flow .....

properly capping off the supply and return line branches is only a short term band-aid ..

you need to contact fellow member @3_puppies , Paul has a good stock on all things 60 series ........ 🙂

send him a PM now ..
 
I would loop the 2 hoses together versus plugging them off.
I can't remember how a 60 hoses are routed,
 
Jeez, the OP is only talking about the rear heater... the main heater should still function fine. I’ve been running with no rear heater (blanked lines) for the last 15 years, and it’s no big deal. Maybe it doesn’t get as cold up in the great white north here as it does south of the border, but I bet it’s warmer in the OP‘s locale than here....
 
Connect your supply and return lines together at the firewall with a 5/8th inch generic heater hose until you find a replacement. Now is the time to inspect your steel heater lines under the truck and the two short bent hoses that feed the rear heater. Be careful not to bend the metal lines by overtightening the hose clamps. Toyota makes hose clamps that are better suited.
 
If you search "rear heater" you'll find a few good delete threads. It can be as easy as buying one pipe plug and a new section of generic heater hose. Most people don't even go as far as to actually take the rear heater out, which you have already done. I re-routed my lines to bypass it because my hard lines were leaking.

If you want to eventually get yours going again, I would loop the ends of the hard lines together with a "U" section of heater hose and run that while you find a replacement heater.
 
Thanks all for the recs. Going to try to source a replacement for one of these and then just connect the supply and return lines with a U shaped line for the time being. I'm in southern california, so not worried about having the extra heat, but like for everything on my truck to work and function as intended.
IMG_6029.jpg
 
Could a competent radiator shop braze a new line on after cutting the damaged area off?
 
Is the valve the broken or is it just the split brass pipe? I would sweat a new piece onto the pipe or add a longer hose to the metal one from underneath. There is a grommet there right?
 
Is the valve the broken or is it just the split brass pipe? I would sweat a new piece onto the pipe or add a longer hose to the metal one from underneath. There is a grommet there right?

I thought about that but yes, it has a grommet which lands at the dark shaded area on the pipe so it wouldn't leave enough room for the hose and a clamp. Plus, it wouldn't be correct. Working to source a replacement heater or valve.
I got a longer heater hose and looped the supply and return for now.
 
What size is the pipe? Curious if you could just replace the pipe. Honestly, that is never going to show from under the seat or under the body. Is it a concours 60?
Just my 2 pennies worth of thought. Carry on...
 
I thought about that but yes, it has a grommet which lands at the dark shaded area on the pipe so it wouldn't leave enough room for the hose and a clamp. Plus, it wouldn't be correct. Working to source a replacement heater or valve.
I got a longer heater hose and looped the supply and return for now.
if you're in venice , ca u really prob don't need the rear heater.... are you trying to get it to work just for the sake of knowing rear heater works? or are u concerned about working heater in the truck?
 
12 years with the FJ60 and I never used the rear heater once, in Los Angeles, so I removed it. Unless you have passengers who need it, there's really no reason to keep it and the reclaimed real estate under the seat is useful.

That valve is unobtanium.

But if you want to keep it, I'd either find a replacement heater assy, or take that valve to a Rad shop and have them braze on a new section of pipe. My valve started to leak, also.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom