rear body mounts (1 Viewer)

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"An effortless 1 handed 3 point turn is better than a 2 handed fight u turn imo."

I am stoked too with the easy of turning, but am greedy I guess. One of the greatest things about this rig was that it, despite its size, could turn on a dime! I have heard from some that they lost nothing so I am definitley reaching out to get best of both worlds. This is what my instalation looks like. I got the Scout II steeering box and a pitman arm from 4x4labs and it is about 7.25 inches long. The knuckles and steering arms are fj62 on a 55 axle housing.
thumbnail_photo.webp

Does anyone see anything glaring? Or
What can I do to get that amazing steering back?
 
The pitman arm matters. For sure.

It's a lever arm. The longer it is, the more work distance you get. The issue with the scout box, is the fact it must have short linear internal travel stops, which in turn limits the rotational angle. Longer pitman arm is your only hope. And it's already long so can't imagine you will find longer other than the stock scout arm(longer than the current arm by a bit IIRC).

You'll loose a bit of the easy pinky steering feeling since you give up the leverage aspect...
 
Just talked to some country boys down at West Texas Off Road and they told me there are internal stops in these boxes. So looks like the wrenches are coming out. While they have the box they will upgrade the bearings and port it for future hydro assist potential, and rebuild.
I'll let you know if that fixes my problem. My fingers are crossed!!
 
Christiaan,

They rebuilt my FJ60 box and ported for future hydro, did a great job. No worries with those guys.
 
Got the box out easy! Stoked, sending it out on Mon to get the stops pulled out (hoping that there are actually stops in there), getting heavier duty bearings installed, and getting ported for hydro assist for the possibility down the road. Those guys at West Texas Off Road made me feel like the knew what they were doing.

photo 1.webp


photo 2.webp
 
The day before thought it would be fun to get a little wheeling before I pulled the steering. I tried on that hill three times and should of walked away (or driven) but after the fifth time the decision was made for me. After a loud shift and bang we lost the momemtum. Started the back down and was greeted with this left up the hill.
photo 1 (1).webp
Managed to get all the way home on the front axle.

So I have a 62 diff in the garage. I wonder if that is a beefier dif than the 55 diff. I knew that there were different holes to attach to the driveshaft. I am pretty sure that I would never be able to redrill and get it perfectly centered, which I imagine needs to be the case. I have an Auburn limited slip inside the now broken 55dif. I am trying to figure out the best plan of attack and use of stuff.
photo 3.webp



The transmition that I have in my garage has the same type of driveshaft flange as the 62 dif. Before redoing the whoel driveshaft, is it possible to just rebuild the back half of the universal to match the 62 diff? It seems that that would be easier than getting inside to switch the flange on the dif. Then I would just shine the 55 dif w/auburn limited slip.

Future plans (just planned for the future not really right now :( $$$$)
Front Range full float conversion w disk brakes.
Harrop elocker

Which way to go? Which way to go?
 
xtiaan2000 said:
Future plans (just planned for the future not really right now :( $$$$)
Front Range full float conversion w disk brakes.
Harrop elocker

Which way to go? Which way to go?
Click to expand...
I am a bad source of advice on this topic. Went looking for a Harrop ELocker and ended up starting a business with a buddy to import them two years ago. We have installed or are in the process of installing five of them in our personal vehicles.

I quit smoking, drinking and running around, only to get hooked on machined/forged metal bits. :)
 
Don't know about the flanges and diff housing differences. Here is some thought for you:

Auburn up front and Harrop in the rear.

Auburn LSD...Experience running?

At least you can't claim me as the responsible party for damages this time..
 
Broken Pinion
Just did some youtube instructionals. Sounds like it is a bit of a skill to get all those preloads, backlash, and things all jibeing.
 
Had a minute and a number of beers and went and measured or maybe I should say, compared the width of the 55 to the 62 pinion shaft. Like everything else on the 62 it is substantially bigger. Which means that that is going back in, in place of the 55 dif. Which means I have to figure out how to mate the driveshaft to the differencial.
?
 
Not a cheap fix, but find a 62 drive shaft and have a new one built with the correct flanges. One end 55 and the other 62.
 
PabloCruise said:
Check out Kurt @cruiseroutfit - they have flanges with different bolt patterns so you should be able to use the 62 3rd with your driveshaft.
Click to expand...

Yup, we've got your rear-end needs covered :D
(Did I just say that?)
 
Ordered the flange to connect the driveshaft to the 62 dif!
Ordered a harrop elocker!
But both are going to sit on the shelf till I save some money to get FR ff conversion kit.

End result being a 62 full float disk brake locked rear end!!!
Super stoke! Just got to exhibit some patience.
 
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