Question about rock sliders...

Joined
Sep 8, 2003
Messages
5,107
Location
Bozeman, MT
 
 
 
Howdy-

Just a quick question about rock sliders. You guys who have just some angle iron, or steel bolted up, how did you do it?

Can you just bolt up some 1/4" angle and call it done? I would think that the wieght would then all be transfered to the body panel (rocker area)?

Or do you guys bolt it to the rocker and the floor...

I know welding it back up to the frame is probably best, but I see a lot of fellas running what looks like bolt on sliders... just to the body?

Any pics of something like this? I have already checked out the bumper slider section... that is what got me thinking.

Rezarf <><
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
1,627
Location
Monroe, WA
 
 
Mine are bolted to the cut rockers, but to keep from bending them in or out under a load, I tied the sliders into the body mounts with some 1.5"x1/4" steel. I've never seen any others done like mine, but it's a pretty slick way to go if you don't want to weld to the frame.

Pictures or the front body mount, rear body mount, and side shot:
slider1.jpg
slider3.jpg
slider2.jpg
 

Morse_FJ40

SILVER Star
Joined
May 15, 2005
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1,167
Location
Anchorage, AK
 
 
 
E rock,

Nice looking sliders. Plus your a WA boy to boot! I use to work at Camp Brinkley off of Monroe log camp Rd.

Later
Ryan
 
Joined
Oct 5, 2003
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1,143
Location
Golden, CO
 
 
I am selling a pair of 3in angle iron sliders. Bold right to the sheet metal. Held up agains some serious abuse but if you plant to drop your truck on rocks periodically then you need to tie them into the frame. (What I am doing now). I also missed having running boards so the sliders are going to act as those as well.

Goind to 1.25 inch angle iron sliders bolted to cut rockers and 2x6 in rectangular tube tied to frame. The two will not be connected as I want the body to be able to flex on the frame. Do a search and check out texicans slider right up.

Hope that helps.

Dan
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2002
Messages
190
 
E rock's sliders appear to be attached to the bodymounts w/flat bar, so I would guess that the rocker panel still see plenty of upward force. But instead of tagging in a concentrated spot the load will be spread across more of the rocker panels surface by the angle iron piece.

IMO, tying into the body mounts on the frame is a slick way to do it,, but the longer those flat bar pieces are the easier they will bend.

E rock, may have also stiffened the backside of the flat bar or if not never had the need, as whatever hits his sliders have taken they must be up to the task or he would not have shared them.
 
Joined
Feb 24, 2004
Messages
1,627
Location
Monroe, WA
 
 
A few considerations that went into my design that I didn't really state explicitly:

The body is fairly solid around the rockers especially since I trimmed off everything up to height of the floor support braces. Stock rockers may require wider angle or more support to prevent lateral movement. I was confident that the body could handle the forces involved as long as they were directed upward. My only concern with the traditional 'bolt-on angle iron' style was bending the entire slider under or outward since you rarely land squarely on something with no lateral movement.

So the 1/4" straps to the body mount bolts are not intended to provide any vertical strength; they are merely to stop the entire rocker panel from bending in or out. In that situation, I don't anticipate them bending.

Testing has been limited, but they've held up just fine to a few good hits and don't seem to mind being used as a hi-lift jacking point to lift the whole side off the ground. I do recommend using thicker-walled tube if you're going to add a step. Mine is .083 (? I think) because that's what I had laying around and it has a few dents in it already.

Eric
 
Joined
Feb 8, 2002
Messages
190
 
I had a friend who went the angle iron route, and what he did was saw off most of the rocker panel and then bolted up a chunk of angleiron from an old bed frame.
It works for him.

Abit more work is to go the tubular route, pretty much lose ground clearance vs. angle iron route, but with 'tubing' style you do actually end up with some rocker panel left to protect.

Here are a couple of pics of some unfinished sliders that have been sitting around for a couple of years, not really that hard to build and could skip the diamond plating altogether, removing a couple fabrication steps.

I guess the way I look at it is that the rocker panel, even the little that is left after cutting with the angle iron route my friend took, its still just sheet metal, and she'll give sooner or later...course anything will give even frame mounted tubing style, with the right leverage.

At least thats my WAG.
sliders unfinished1.JPG
old unfinished sliders.JPG
 
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Messages
16
drohweder said:
I am selling a pair of 3in angle iron sliders. Bold right to the sheet metal. Held up agains some serious abuse but if you plant to drop your truck on rocks periodically then you need to tie them into the frame. (What I am doing now). I also missed having running boards so the sliders are going to act as those as well.

Goind to 1.25 inch angle iron sliders bolted to cut rockers and 2x6 in rectangular tube tied to frame. The two will not be connected as I want the body to be able to flex on the frame. Do a search and check out texicans slider right up.

Hope that helps.

Dan

dan, are those the ones you bought from me?

if you want i'll buy them back.

glenn
 
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Messages
16
rear support att. to spring hanger reinforement.

the sliders are simons from faultlinefab......the support and tie in was me. :D

i would post a pic but it exceeds my quota , and i can't resize with this computer. :rolleyes:

i'll get my star next week :D

:beer:
 
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