Qatar FJ45 Project

[Living in the Past]

No steering expert but think caster can be effected by the springs. As the springs flatten out with the fixed pin at the back the shackle angle will change effecting the caster. Wedges, arcing or new springs or different shackles could correct this. Camber I have no idea. Personally I would correct the caster and see with alignment how it steers. I would also watch for wear patterns on tires.

 

[AYM707]

It has occurred to me that I have not updated this blog since July 2015...but between work, the heat, and vehicle inspections issues (long story - read it here Qatar Vehicle Inspection Issues) let's just say I've been doing minor tweaks. I did change the seats; installed Nissan X-Terra buck seats. Definitely, more comfortable than the standard bench Toyota seats, also gave me some more height - which I needed.

Only problem is that legally, its still a 3-seater and now its only a 2-seater. Which means, come inspection time; I have to switch the seats back. I do the same for the bumper; just one more thing to do.
Also changed the cooling water temperature sender...and for the first time in 3 years, saw my temperature gauge move!! Happy to report the engine temperature remained on the cool side even when I was stuck in traffic; and the coolant was still green with no contaminates.

Then my battery died; which is a typical problem here with the heat. No problem; new battery and it still didn't start. Then struggled to check the various connections; also had to brush-up on my electrical "skills". Pulled the starter, and it was good. At the end, it was a lose wire connection to the key ignition system; must have loosened up when I changed the battery.

Oh, and I also got my bumperette replaced. Found a local Chinese metal works factory. He was able to fabricate the bumperette using SS316 with a 3 mm sheet. PO fabricated them with 1.5 mm and they looked very cheap / low-grade.

Well; that comes to my current project. For a while now, I know my power steering pump has been leaking. Typically I would fill the tank before a drive and everything would be good. Later, when the engine cools, the fluids in the pan!! The worst part is that side of my engine is caked with PS fluid and dirt. Anything you touch is PS fluid. Figured the pump seals have gone, also some of the hoses looked a bit suspicious. This has been bothering me for some time, I managed to source a seal kit from Australia and decided to do everything myself.

While I was at it also decided I should also change the following :

• Oil pressure sender - have not seen my gauge move in 3 years, also sourced from Australia
• Fuel Filter - no issues just regular maintenance
• Fuel piping - apparently, PO used a garden hose for the return / vapor line. Hasn't caused a problem yet...but thought it was an easy change. Thought I might as well change all the hoses while I was at it
• Broken Bolt - I broke a bolt on the chassis when I was working on my starter / electrical issues. It was for the protection shield at the bottom. Thought I might be able to drill it out.

Considering my limited auto experience; the PS pump over-haul is a BIG project for me!!! The other bits are just small add-on's. Considering its still +45C / 80% humidity outside - work is extremely slow and painful. Well, I've started...so no turning back now...

 

[AYM707]

With all projects, the greatest risk scope expansion. As a professional Project Manager, I know the risk of going off plan. Well...i've gone totally nuts

Started with a simple power steering pump removal..and its associated hoses.

PS pump before I cleaned it.

Then decided to change the fuel piping. Apparently, the fuel return was running on a garden hose. Took the battery out for easy access. While I was at it, decided this would be a good time to replace the radiator piping (from the thermostat to the pump) and the engine cooler piping. Both were fairly soft.

To do so, I pulled out the radiator and then decided to take off the radiator fan and front bibb off!!

Left the AC coil in front; just moved to the side to get full access. Spent the weekend cleaning all the old ps oil / grease / PO's mud off the engine...especially from below. Definitely not perfect, but its a good start.

Now comes the hard part; putting it back together again...

Also looking for replacement hoses; any suggestions? I'm not sure if I should replace the 2-wire hose clamps with stainless steel hose clamps. Any suggestions.

 

[AYM707]

The back of my truck is the new storage area...

Removed engine cooling pipe hose

need the clean the pipe...replacing the rubber hoses. When I got my FJ45, I replaced the coolant and cleaned / fixed my radiator. But never really flushed the entire system nor replaced the other hoses. Its amazing to see the engine run without any problems even though there was still alot of in there.

Now I need to put everything back again...

 

[Honger]

For your fuel hose just look up the common size here on MUD... and go to a oil/gas industry supply shop in your industrial area. They should sell you the hose by the meter.

 

[AYM707]

For your fuel hose just look up the common size here on MUD... and go to a oil/gas industry supply shop in your industrial area. They should sell you the hose by the meter.

Yeah, I got some 3/8" and 5/16" piping rated for 20 bar for the fuel and ps piping; but its the larger water pipes that I am having trouble with. I've got a mismatch of pipes, some Toyota others OEM; just need to mold it to what i need.

 

[Michael B]

You might check with your local Toyota dealership for availability of stock radiator hoses.

 

[AYM707]

Got a question of spray paint; hope someone can set me right..

I know that there's special high temperature paint for the engine, typically rated for 250 C; but what about other secondary components in the engine bay? I'm thinking of my PS pump, engine cooling pipe, air filter housing, etc. Can I use normal spray paint?

I've cleaned these the best I can, but they could use a nice coat of paint. Was thinking of using a regular spray paint as a protective layer.

Any suggestions?

 

[AYM707]

Wanted to make a shout-out for the unknown innovative mechanic...

While removing the engine cooler hoses; I noticed this unusual hose clamp...its basically spring wire with a pin through it. Done by the PO; it held the pipe for god knows how long without a problem..

Really struggled to release the pin. Keeping it as a memento to the innovative mechanic

 

[Michael B]

The PO would be MR. Toyota. Those are orginal and extremely tough to remove as you no doubt have discovered.

 

[AYM707]

The PO would be MR. Toyota. Those are orginal and extremely tough to remove as you no doubt have discovered.

Wow! It's original hose clamp. I'm really impressed. Leave it the Japanese to make things that last 30+ years

 

[AYM707]

Radiator / engine cooler pipes cleaned and painted...using the shoe-string budget method...

managed to re-install all the hoses and changed the fuel filter / piping. Also changed all the hose clamps for good measure. And did alot of cleaning / scrubbing. Still not perfect; but getting there...atleast I can see the engine

Debating if I should change the belts as well...as a preventive maintenance. My concern is how to tighten the belts afterwards. I have searched ih8mud for a sure / easy method; but have not found anything 100%. Was thinking I could get some wood wedges to wedge the pump / alternator and then tighten the holding nuts. But not sure it that will give me the right tension. The A/C compressor has a tension pulley which i should be able to tighten.

The two tensions recommended are :

• Twist the belt to max 90 degrees - then its good...anything more then its too loose
• With 10 kg weight, the belt defection should be roughly 7-10 mm.

Does this apply to all belts? What about belt type? The belt for the alternator has teeth, but the other's were smooth. Which is the correct belt type?

 

[AYM707]

I'm reliving this thread....

Long story short...shipped my FJ45 to Toronto at the tail end of 2021.

and parked it in an underground garage...

Only issues with shipping, is that it arrived in the dead of winter and the radiator coolant leaked; (It was summer coolant) from the least accessible hose ...the big one at the pump inlet. I've re-located back to Toronto in 2023 and since then have been working on the truck.

Since then, my first priority was to get the radiator system all plugged up and to get it legal. Got all the hoses connected and thought why not flush it a few times. During the process, the radiator plug cork (plastic screw) broke apart.

I found a replacement...then noticed the brass ring at the bottom of the radiator had cracked. It was actually just a steel plumbing nipple. So pulled the radiator and brass connector (from home depot) welded on.

With a brass plug. I even found a sock that fits the plug.

Then went to an old-timer mechanic (someone recommended) for my safety. Everything was in good working order...except the wipers; but the important stuff; ie the brakes worked fine. He said my brakes were leaking. I never noticed any leaks / felts the brakes were soft. But sure enough, when he removed the rubber boot, there was a squirt of brake fluid. After that, my brakes never worked!!!

Order new brake cylinders (correct bore size is 28mm (1 1/2) and replaced them myself

Flushed the brake lines.

Found another "better" mechanic and got my safety!!!

 

[AYM707]

She's now road legal..

Since then, I've done some minor cosmetic repairs / replacements...door handles / window regulators etc.

I've been told...by the "love of my life" that I'm only allowed 1 toy at a time...I have to share my toys...so..sadly, I've decided to put this up for sale. Link below for details

For Sale - Toronto : 1983 Land Cruiser FJ45

I purchased this vehicle in 2014 in Qatar. Since returning to Toronto, its been in an underground garage. I have Ontario plates. I enjoyed driving / repairing it. I've replaced several parts, mainly original Toyota / OEM parts. I've documented my adventures here : Qatar FJ45 Project -...

forum.ih8mud.com

I would prefer a fellow Mudder give it a new home.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Price?

 

[AYM707]

Price?

its in the post... CA$55,000 [US$45,000] OR best offer.

 

[AYM707]

Update 12-05-2024

I started the year working on / adjusting the carburetor; following the lean-mean method. After a few attempts, I got mixed results. Definitely better than before; the start is still a bit rough but it settles down. After some research, thought I should adjust the tightness of the intake/exhaust valves. Link below is thread that helped me through the process...

Carburetor & Valves Adjustments - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/carburetor-valves-adjustments.1330669/#post-15364911

Since then, I have figured out how to see where top-dead centre is for all the cylinders. Marked it on my fly wheel. But need to circle back to the valves tightening.

I had flushed / drained my brake lines earlier, but I had also wanted to flush/drain the clutch line. There is no problem with the clutch; just thinking it could be a bit tighter / maybe there's some air bubbles. Initially, working from below

I drained the old fluid; which was very bad and managed to get the bubbles out. But was still not satisfied; so I switched to another approach; based on my understanding that air raises. The plastic ketchup bottle is the best!!

I did manage to get a big bubble out; but still feel my clutch should be tighter. But, the clutch works, so maybe I should not push my luck.

Also in process of getting new car seat covers for the original seats.

 

[AYM707]

Update 12-02-2025

I've done alot of work on my FJ45 since the last update. Again, the push is all because I need to sell this so I can enjoy the "dark mistress". The KSA FJ40. Deal with the wife was I had to sell one of them.

Alot of the work is cosmetic, this is something that I dont think is important, the engine / transmission / suspension is the important stuff.

I had adjusted the carburetor earlier, but needed to check / adjust the tightness of the intake/exhaust valves. There were a few that were a bit loose while others were a bit tight. Now everything is as per spec.

Once the valve cover was off, I also decided to give the valve cover a good cleaning. Refer to this thread for the details (Valve Cover Cleaning - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/valve-cover-cleaning.1349734/)

I am quite happy with the final result. ...

I also have a radiator coolant boiling over issue (details in this thread (Radiator Boiling Over - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/radiator-boiling-over.1343096/). After going through a lengthy process of trying to determine the cause, I concluded it was the radiator. There were several reasons for this conclusion :

1. The vehicle arrived in Toronto, in January - dead of winter. Radiator was filled with a mix of high temp coolant & water; and froze. The expansion forced a radiator pipe loose and the coolant leaked, but there might have been internal damage to the radiator.
2. I had the radiator drain cock drain point welded with a brass fitting. The repair man painted the radiator with a thick black / glossing paint; which I think effected its heat transfer rate.

According to AI, typical heat transfer range (difference between inlet & outlet) on an Toyota 2F radiator is in the range of 3-5.5C. I did a stress test on the "dark mistress" and that correlated with the AI assessment. I was barely getting 3C delta on the FJ45; hence it was boiling over.

Since the FJ45 is mostly original parts, I decided to pull the radiator from the "mistress". The mistress is a 1982 KSA FJ40 with an original radiator with a new radiator cap. Installed in the FJ45, stress tested it and no boiling issues.

Then turned my attention to the interior. I installed a new floor liner. I had purchased this liner several years ago; final decided it was time. Removed the seats, seat belts, dash pad (upper & lower), gear boots, hand brake cover, and even the drain pipes. Then cleaned years of dirt and started to put it a new liner.

and this the the final look.

Hind-sight, I should have used a heat gun to mold the liner, but I did have and was short of time. This was my first attempt of making a liner. Next time would be better.

Added new floor matts too.

Aiming to put this on BAT soon. Hoping a fellow mudder will pick it up and give it a new home.

 

[AYM707]

Oh, also forgot to mention, I finally did a dry compression test. I was a bit hesitant to do it...both in terms of how to correctly do it and what the results would be. However, I was extremely happy with the results, all cylinders were at 140 PSI (one was at 143 PSI - which is within the factor of error +/-5%). This reinforced / confirmed the issue with the radiator coolant boiling was not related to engine seals. What a relief.

 

[tex45]

What kind of tach do you have set up on this?