The KSA Project (1 Viewer)

[AYM707]

So, after I moved to Saudi Arabia for work; the wife gave me "permission" to buy a 2nd hand vehicle....she never mentioned how old it could be.

Found an ad for FJ40 and it looked fairly good. Went to meet the gentlemen on his farm....and this is what I saw....

It was a gold mine!!! His name is Hussam ... and he's now my best friend!!! He fixes / restores FJ's for clients all over the world. Look at his instagram : arabianclassics. (Leave comment...and tell him Amer sent you there...need my brownie points) He outsources alot of the mechanical / electrical work but manages the entire process. Does alot of the paint / interior works. And then makes sure everything is running right before handing over to the new owner / shipping agent for export!! He is super critical of his work and does not stop until he's satisfied.

I am more interested in the project vehicles as I wanted to be a part of the entire process. Thought this would be a perfect opportunity to learn how to pull a unit apart and more importantly ... put it back together again. The hardest part was picking a FJ; felt like a kid in candy story!

After multiple trips, picked my next project.

Not sure why I picked this one, put the frame is solid. PS doesnt work and the interior is shot. Multiple dents / body work required. Missing lights. But's its solid and the engine is good, but needs some TLC.

He wanted to fix it as part of his regular process, but I wanted to do most of the work myself in his workshop over weekends. As Ramadan is starting; my FJ project is on hold until late May 2022. But I've got plenty of time to plan what to do.

My first action would be to tear down the interior and getting the unit cleaned; especially the engine and underside. There is alot of grease / dirt stuck on it. But there are no leaks!!.

To be continued....

 

[AYM707]

so I was told its a 1982; nameplate details are

Pulled all the seats / matting / carpet out and had a detailed look for rust / damage

Previous owner had welded a checker plate to the tub; which is all rusted. The tub itself has a few holes in; so I'm in the opinion it would be better just to cut everything out and weld a new sheet. Also near the drivers seat, the floor has gone.

In fact, the driver's side needs to be cut out and replaced. I'm not sure how to shape the metal for the space between the door and seat. I want to install bucket seats, so the seat mounts would have to be cut / modified too.

The engine is running rough; so need to adjust the carburetor and maybe check the valves spacing. I've seen several videos; but still need to get a vacuum gauge and a tachometer. Also need to do the following :

• Deep clean the engine and get all the dirt / oil out. Need to clean the gear box too.
• Clean the air filter; replace engine oil / filter, spark plugs, and drain / clean the fuel tank.
• Flush the radiator & replace rubber hoses / belts.
• Change the power steering pump. It doesn't work and does not look standard.; will post a photo later.
• Adjust / check master brake & clutch cylinders - bleed the air out of the system.
• Replace the brake tubing (all bent). Does anyone know the tube dia & material?
• Replace the electrical wiring. Long term project as the wiring is a mess.

Any advise / observations would be much appreciated. Will post more pictures / details as I discover them. Cheers

 

[AYM707]

I found an Aisan Carburetor Manual for $9. at Aisan Carburetor Rebuild Manual M327 - https://www.carburetor-parts.com/m327.html . Just wondering if anyone has it and if its worth it; does it have an idiots guide to carburetor adjustment?

might just order it for fun?

 

[Living in the Past]

It appears by you 12/81 there. I know nothing of the Saudi Arabia cruiser pricing. Hopefully was fairly priced as it looks like quite a project. But also looks like you found someone who is willing to sell unrestored 40 series. Is this the same place as the "Another FJ find near Riyadh" thread?

 

[AYM707]

Another FJ find near Riyadh

Yup - think fvenun has been following me around Riyadh. Thanks for giving me a heads up.

 

[Honger]

Cool to see you pick up another project... you've a lot of work in store on this one!

 

[sterling]

Thanks for sharing.
Great to see the options/years offered in different markets for the 40 series.
A/C necessities come to mind. Majority or only option of a certain body color vs. other countries.

 

[AYM707]

Ok, it's been a while; thought an update was long over due.

Stripped the vehicle down and started to sand it down.

and then sent it to the painters to do their thing...

They did an amazing job smoothing it out and fixing / repairing all the dents. Re-aligned the door pins and the hood. I really thought I would have to replace it. They cut out the rusted tub in the back and replaced it with a new sheet.

Then had to make the most difficult decision...what colour to paint it. After much debate finally decided on Toyota Magnetic Grey Metallic (1G3)

Let's see how it looks. Painting this weekend. Will post the pictures.

 

[AYM707]

Well the big day final came. The Painter Crew were amazing!!

Started in the morning with prepping the vehicle with paper / tape.

and then the first coat!!

 

[AYM707]

and after a very dusty week finally got back to the workshop to see my baby..... ...It was a dust day.

Opted to stick with the chrome look; didnt want to paint it black. I think the chrome bumper and framing is the classic look that makes a FJ40!! Want to keep it as classic as possible, but need to add a few upgrades for comfort.

Still need to do some touch up in the engine bay. Put it the seats / windows. Working in 50C is very exhausting. Hopefully, I can start driving it in early Sept. and only then do i get to understand the problems / concerns.

My list is getting longer :
1- Replace power steering pump. Doesnt work.
2- Re-do / replace the electrical wiring. Its an absolute mess with several connectors not connected to anything. There are tons of cables in the engine bay and the dash, but there's hardly any electronics here. I've had earthing problems with my FJ45, so this time am thinking it would be easier just to re-wire everything. Also need to add power outlets for charging points / tablet. Never done this before; but I have a wiring diagram. Cant be that difficult...famous last words!
3- Definitely need to add some speakers and an amp. Going to connect it to a tablet / car headboard for the stereo / nav. / bluetooth to my phone.
4- Replace all belts, rubber hoses. Also considering replacing the brake / clutch piping (they appear all bent and dont look nice...but the brakes / clutch work; so why "fix" it?). Not sure if I can do a better job. Never done this before. Am I going crazy or should I just leave this?

On a side note, what is the cable coming out of the carburetor? It goes into the dash but not sure where it is connected too? Any advice?

 

[Honger]

On a side note, what is the cable coming out of the carburetor? It goes into the dash but not sure where it is connected too? Any advice?

That's the idle solenoid and it's wired to your ignition. When power is cut to that solenoid the fuel supply is cut to your carb.

Looking good!

 

[AYM707]

So the day has finally arrived...washed ...clean....ready...and what a beauty!!!

Now I'm just waiting for paperwork / final safety inspection and finally will be able to drive it on the roads!!

 

[DaveNotHere]

Great color combination with the brown seats.

 

[Honger]

Love those seats!

 

[AYM707]

So spent the week driving and getting the know my cruiser....listening to all the noises and trying to assess issues. Had a problem with the alternator...it was cutting in / out; so the battery was slowing discharging. Only discovered that after a 2 hour drive....and stopped in the middle of an intersection...just before Friday prayers. Thankfully some truckers pushed it off the road.

The local mechanic was able to fix / repair the alternator; but was not able to adjust the carburetor. The engine speed is too high and can't seem to lower / adjust it. He initial said I should replace it...but now he says he can fix it. Also said that the brake vacuum is "broken". Think its a "lost in translation" moment...but the brake is extremely hard to engage. I am not really sure what the bake vacuum is / does and am concerned that I should not drive my FJ40 until this is resolved. Searched for a new master brake cylinder but have not found anything. Any advice?

Think the clutch plate is near the end of its life....i hear a noise when engaging. Also the gear engagement is not that smooth / easy as compared to my FJ45. Maybe the gear box needs to be cleaned / serviced?

 

[fjc-man]

Sounds like your power brake booster has a vacuum leak. That explains the high idle and the the extra brake pedal pressure needed to stop. Not the brake master cylinder.

 

[AYM707]

Sounds like your power brake booster has a vacuum leak. That explains the high idle and the the extra brake pedal pressure needed to stop. Not the brake master cylinder.

@fjc-man - Thanks. Apologizes for all the basic questions; just need to understand..

1. How is the power brake booster linked to high idle?
2. I've noticed there is a plastic fitting with a hose connection; that might have cracked? Would it better / easier to just replace the entire unit?
3. Should I also replace the master cylinder assembly at the same time.
4. Is it difficult to replace?

Appreciate your support

 

[Honger]

@fjc-man - Thanks. Apologizes for all the basic questions; just need to understand..

1. How is the power brake booster linked to high idle?
2. I've noticed there is a plastic fitting with a hose connection; that might have cracked? Would it better / easier to just replace the entire unit?
3. Should I also replace the master cylinder assembly at the same time.
4. Is it difficult to replace?

Appreciate your support

The big black round unit that sits against your firewall, and before the brake master cylinder, and is your brake booster. It uses vacuum to assist your braking.

A vacuum leak in the hoses leading to the brake booster, or in the brake booster's internal diaphragm, will result in several symptoms:
1. High idle because intake vacuum requires resistance. With a leak it sucks in more air at a faster rate and thus over-revs.
2. Brakes are hard to apply. They work, the truck will stop, but you'll have to push a lot harder on the pedal than normal.

You have both of those symptoms.

You can find out if the vacuum leak is in the hoses/connections to the booster by starting the truck up and spraying some starter fluid around the hoses... when you find the vacuum leak it will rev even higher by drawing in the starter fluid and over-over-revving. Alternative, if you can see cracks in the hoses or connections then you should just start there.

For now, leave the master cylinder alone, focus on the booster and it's connections.

 

[AYM707]

The big black round unit that sits against your firewall, and before the brake master cylinder, and is your brake booster. It uses vacuum to assist your braking.

A vacuum leak in the hoses leading to the brake booster, or in the brake booster's internal diaphragm, will result in several symptoms:
1. High idle because intake vacuum requires resistance. With a leak it sucks in more air at a faster rate and thus over-revs.
2. Brakes are hard to apply. They work, the truck will stop, but you'll have to push a lot harder on the pedal than normal.

You have both of those symptoms.

You can find out if the vacuum leak is in the hoses/connections to the booster by starting the truck up and spraying some starter fluid around the hoses... when you find the vacuum leak it will rev even higher by drawing in the starter fluid and over-over-revving. Alternative, if you can see cracks in the hoses or connections then you should just start there.

For now, leave the master cylinder alone, focus on the booster and it's connections.

After moving, work, and traveling; finally managed to find time to work on the brake booster. Finding the right tool to undo the bolts on the inside was the biggest challenge. At the end, it wasnt the extra long extension, but a deep socket with a tiny ratchet that did the trick.

Replaced the brake booster & the connecting vacuum hoses. Measured the length of the old rod and made sure the fork was in the same place. After tightening everything back and started it up again, the brake was solid / still very hard. Engine was also appeared rev'ed up. The only thing I can think of would be to re-adjust the length of the rod on the new booster. Think the paddle needs to come out a bit more...but this would be a try ...try ...and try again formula / approach.

Any suggestions?

 

[Living in the Past]

Was the old booster leaking? That would make a difference in the idle changing to one that didn't leak.