Qatar FJ45 Project

[Living in the Past]

Thank you for the pictures. I was really kidding about the seats even though I would like to have them. Shipping would be a deal killer. It's funny the bumpers are welded on they appear to be stock chrome style the Middle East market received.

I've been doing some research and found that only a few markets that a long wheel base did get a hand brake on the rear axle. No troop carriers and only certain RHD trucks. No LHD trucks had the hand brake on the rear axle all were on the transfer case. That bracket on the back diff cover is for hand brake cable. The other bracket to the left on top of the tub is for some kind of brake proportioning valve, a rod attached there. I have three axles post 7/80 and they all have those. There is another bracket for the hand brake cable that only axles with the hand brake got.


I would suggest if your replacing the knuckle bearing rebuild the rest of the knuckles while your at it. With all that sand it wouldn't hurt to replace the grease and install new seals including the inner seal. Won't hurt to inspect the diff while your at it.

Does it not get cool in the desert at night any time of the year? Would think a heater would come in handy at least part of the year, or maybe the heat off the engine and exhaust is enough. Either way a very nice truck, really jealous. Just wish Toyota continued to import them to the US as long as they did the FJ40.

 

[Honger]

Man your truck looks good!

 

[AYM707]

Man your truck looks good!

Thanks , but looks are a bit deceiving...can't get it aligned and my registration expires next week.

@Living in the Past suggested I pull apart the entire knuckle vs just doing the short and dirty bearing change. I think he's right; but this will take time. Flip side is that the local Toyota dealer still has parts for FJ-40's; so no more trips to Sharjah.
Thanks for the tip on the tires; can't believe the major difference in drive now that I've got real tires

 

[Honger]

Thanks , but looks are a bit deceiving...can't get it aligned and my registration expires next week.

@Living in the Past suggested I pull apart the entire knuckle vs just doing the short and dirty bearing change. I think he's right; but this will take time. Flip side is that the local Toyota dealer still has parts for FJ-40's; so no more trips to Sharjah.
Thanks for the tip on the tires; can't believe the major difference in drive now that I've got real tires

He's right... just rebuild the whole axle. New seals and bearings (axle and knuckle) and fresh grease/oil while you've got it down that far. Especially if you are going to use the dealership to do the work. They charge a lot to take down front Land Cruiser axles and if you are going to pay them the labor you may as well have them do all the work they can while in there. Not a bad time to replace/turn rotors (if you have front discs) as well. In any case, get the whole axle serviced.

Yeah, new passenger-rated tires made a huge difference for me as well. Glad that worked out for you.

 

[AYM707]

He's right... just rebuild the whole axle. New seals and bearings (axle and knuckle) and fresh grease/oil while you've got it down that far. Especially if you are going to use the dealership to do the work. They charge a lot to take down front Land Cruiser axles and if you are going to pay them the labor you may as well have them do all the work they can while in there. Not a bad time to replace/turn rotors (if you have front discs) as well. In any case, get the whole axle serviced.

Yeah, new passenger-rated tires made a huge difference for me as well. Glad that worked out for you.

Hey Joel - going to do the work MYSELF. I've read a lot of threads here and seen a number of youtube videos. just hope I don't screw it up.

 

[Landpimp]

The motor reving up

My guess it is the A/C idle up on the carb, there is a screw on the front of the carb to adjust when the ac kicks on/off. There is also a small vacuum thing that also can go bad, it pulls on the diaphragm on the front of the carb.

Sweet 45!

 

[AYM707]

The motor reving up

My guess it is the A/C idle up on the carb, there is a screw on the front of the carb to adjust when the ac kicks on/off. There is also a small vacuum thing that also can go bad, it pulls on the diaphragm on the front of the carb.

Sweet 45!

@Landpimp - thanks. A/C's dead; no gas, but it must be tied into the carb as you said. Need to adjust the carb; on the list; but need to re-do my knuckles and get alignment straightened out; so i can get it inspected / registered.

 

[Landpimp]

even if he AC is not working, the AC idle up stuff may still be.

@Landpimp - thanks. A/C's dead; no gas, but it must be tied into the carb as you said. Need to adjust the carb; on the list; but need to re-do my knuckles and get alignment straightened out; so i can get it inspected / registered.

 

[AYM707]

Just wanted to update my progress; its been a while. Nothing major to report, mainly due to the temperature; its hitting 42C already.

A few weeks back, changed the brake light switch - the brake light would remain lit long after I release the pedal. Then pulled apart my steering column. My steering wheel was out of alignment and also had to replace the steer column tube.

Replaced it with a steering tube I got from @Honger A little bit of black spray paint and the tube was as good as new.

Struggled with the ignition assembly;

but managed to get it out, thanks to @shawnfj40

Cleaned the dirt out and lubricated everything and managed to put everything back again without any bolts left over. Oh, also changed the horn; high horn was dead.

Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures of how it looks now; lost my phone in Copenhagen!!

still need to replace the bearings. made a deal with a local mechanic, he's going to supervise me & tell me how to do the replacement. that ways; I know I will not screw it up and he's got all the tools.

 

[Honger]

Good to hear the steering tube worked out for ya! Glad we were able to arrange that.

It's good to see your progress.

 

[cult45]

That's the first time I've ever seen 15" split rims. I always throughout they were avail in 16" only.

 

[lostmarbles]

That's the first time I've ever seen 15" split rims. I always throughout they were avail in 16" only.

Me too.

 

[cult45]

Me too.

Tom is stumped! Never thought I'd see the day.

 

[AYM707]

T

That's the first time I've ever seen 15" split rims. I always throughout they were avail in 16" only.

The 15" are from the 4wd hilux. Not standard

 

[lostmarbles]

T........The 15" are from the 4wd hilux. Not standard

Then I think the part number may be 42610-35030 for the wheel (or WHEEL, DISC as Toyota calls it) and 42613-35010 for the ring (or RING, DISC WHEEL SIDE as toyota calls it)...

And it looks (from the little bit of research I've just done) like these 5.50F x 15 wheels were fitted only to new LHD vehicles which explains why we haven't seen them much in Australia or New Zealand

 

[west aussie]

That's the first time I've ever seen 15" split rims. I always throughout they were avail in 16" only.

australia got 15" splits on some of the toyota stouts. ive got a few.

 

[cult45]

australia got 15" splits on some of the toyota stouts. ive got a few.

Only you would have LHD splits in a RHD country.

 

[lostmarbles]

Actually I don't know what's going on..

Searching on that wheel number reveals only a few models, all LHD.

But searching on the ring number shows far more models and many of them RHD.

 

[AYM707]

In an effort to beat the heat and Ramadan / limited mechanical skills; I decided to get a mechanic to replace my knuckle bearings. Although the deal with the mechanic was that I would help he; I found very quickly that I was in his was; so I sat back and enjoyed the show.

I did manage to capture the disassembly

But managed to miss the re-assembly.

At the end, there is no more oil leaks; which means my wife is that I'm not ruining the drive way!

The entire objective was to get my alignment done; the truck just wondered all over the road. After the bearing replacement, tie-rods changed earlier, my steering is defiantly much better. The wheel is still lose, but I really thinking the wondering has been minimized. Now for alignment ...

 

[AYM707]

Then came the moment I've been waiting for..my alignment check.

The mechanic said he could only adjust the toe; which was out. But my camber & caster is also out. The truck does drift to the right, which he said was most likely caused by the caster.

The camber is also out by 1 degree on both tires.

How serious are these are to the overall alignment? It's a 30 year old truck, can't expect it to be perfect. How do you adjust the camber & caster?

I still have not gone from my yearly inspection; you think I can pass with the camber & caster out?

Need some good advice here, please