Builds PZJ70 build-refurbish!? (2 Viewers)

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Here’s my take on winter tires. Up until I got my BJ-70, I used the BFG AT's year round on all the Tacoma's I had till I got the BJ-70. They worked great as a year round tire here in AK, of course always drive appropriately for conditions. When we got the BJ-70 we were living in Fairbanks, AK. I think the -70 had BFG AT's on it when I bought them so I didn't think much about how the -70 would do in the winter. After the first snow for the season, which usually isn't a good snow for a good base on the road, I drove to work and twice I did a 360, even driving 35mph. So, I ended up buying a set of BFG MT in the 255/85/16 and had them studded. What a beast, even in 2wd. Of course I slowed down when appropriate but definitely drove faster than others thought prudent. The only time they hardly worked was on sheer ice on the road, but in 4wd and slow driving I was still able to make it through the one section of sheer ice. The only thing that I think would make this tire better would be if they came in a softer compound and had sippes. I used these tires in the winter on my ute here in Anchorage. Last winter I had new studs installed and also had the tires sipped. So to me the best winter tire is a sipped and studded skinny mud tire. The main reason I prefer a skinny mud tire is because they will dig down a lot better than any other tire when you have any snow depth on the road or side of the road. It's the weird snow that accumulates on the sides and center of the lanes when you get fresh snow fall, especially if it is over say 3 or 4 inches. Your normal dedicated snow tire will float so easily in these conditions. I did run a set of Cooper STMaxx on a frontier I had, also in the 255/85/16 size and studded. These would float also on the weird snow conditions I described above a lot more than the MT's did, but probably did do a little better than a dedicated snow tire. Maybe if the opportunity presents itself I would love to try the BFG MT competition (?) that has a softer compound and have it siped and studded, but for snow I really like the tread pattern of the original BFG MT's vs the new pattern. Sorry for the essay, my high school english teacher would be proud :)
 
@coldtaco I lived in Wyoming for 25yrs, plowed snow for over 10 of those years.


I have ran many tires for this over the years, definitely sipped and studded is the best. I have even sipped my own tires, a set of Maxxis Creepies on an FJ60. Studded though to me means you need two sets of wheels and tires.


I used to run Coopers on my work trucks a lot and I ran them on one 80-series. They are alright.


Everyone's uses are different. The owner of this truck will DD it in Montana and use it for light trips into the back country. Pulling his vintage tear drop trailer and the occasional road trip.


Cheers
 
I sure do love this part in a build....

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Cheers
 
I sure do love this part in a build....

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Cheers

Man... what is it about freshly rebuild front hubs? New rotor, clean caliper, fresh hardware... ugh! Looks sexy man.

Just wrapped up reading the whole thread. Some very cool work done on this truck. Looking forward to seeing it wrapped up. I've picked up a lot of good ideas on interior treatment for my Troopy in terms of cleaning, prepping, POR15'ing, and sound-deadening. Thanks for the details.
 
Alrighty, I might as well let the cat out of the bag on this because you all are going to notice it regardless.

I hesitate to post this simply because I don’t want to hear a bunch of opinions or listen to the haters.


Track width in front has widened substantially with the conversion. It is literally almost identical to what it is on 2007+ 71/76/78/79 series. That is roughly 2” per side.

I knew it would be wider but how much I wasn’t sure since I have used a mix of parts and this is custom built rather than just buying say a 1999-2007 front axle housing.

I have done my research and honestly I don’t see it being an issue. If anything the truck is going to handle very nice due to the increased track. After hours reading up on Aussie forms the main complaint about the wider front track width comes almost entirely from guys running on sand. I simply do not see this truck running on sand very much in the future.

I have also spent a lot of seat time in a 2007+ HZJ76 and I didn’t notice anything about the difference in track width.

Regardless, the easy fix is wheel spacers if it needs anything. The front tires with the skinnies are dead on the front fender lip so it isn’t like the tires are outside the fenders. It is definitely noticeable though looking at the truck.

Here are a few pics....

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Pictures have a way of either making things look less or more than they really are. I don’t think it looks bad at all but again, it is noticeable.

So, really this conversion has made this truck a PZJ71! Added benifit, turning radius should be amazing!


Cheers
 
Couple more pics so you can see where the tires are in relation to the fender lip. Like I say, it’s right there, to me on the money.

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Axle isn’t perfectly centered yet but it is within a 1/2”.


Cheers
 
Last bit to mention for now....


Like I say, it appears before settling or adding weight that the front gained 1.5” of natural lift from the conversion. This with stock height coils fitted.

The rear I have fitted 2.5” OME leaves and it appears the trucks stance is near perfect. I don’t have much if any weight in the rear yet though. The leaves are a medium duty. It will easily be tunable in the rear height wise by adding leaves or longer shackles.


So stance wise I am very happy with it so far.


Cheers
 
New fuel tank, straps, skid, sending unit, pickup, filler neck, cap and all hardware installed.

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New body mounts installed. They were pretty toast but hey 29yrs isn’t bad!

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Cheers
 
My friend Dave from over at @Delta VS stopped by today to scan the front of the Cruiser.

Very very cool software and he uses it for the CAD to build bumpers and the like.


Cheers
 
Looking good!

Space those back wheels out man. The extra width gives a bunch of stability as well as looking better. Plus with a full floater in the back you're not putting too much extra pain on the wheel bearings etc.

Cheers
Clint
 
I have had a long list of little details I have been plugging away at. I want to have all this pretty well wrapped up before tearing into the final phase of the build. Here are some samples of all these details....

Rear wiring harness was refurbished, I unwrapped it, made a couple repairs, cleaned it and rewrapped it. Needed to spray the wax before I finished the install of the harness.

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Here is the chip guard in one of the four interior locations. The cover I also coated. As mentioned before the owner will be stuffing all kinds of gear in the truck, he likes books and crannies for this. So I did this to keep the scratches and chips to a minimum.

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I didn’t have the correct brake line bracket for this side that mounts between the coil and shock, I do have the correct one for the other side. I should have the correct part tomorrow so I can get these brake lines all done.

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The steering box was sent off to West Texas Off-Road for a rebuild. I got new mounting hardware ready to go when I get it back.

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I have all new plastic seals-covers for all four doors but before I install the old funk needs to be cleaned off.

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Cheers
 
Not only did I have the tcase operation sticker reproduced I got this factory diff lock sticker. I think it is for an 80, it is just for the “cool factor”.

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I had all the mounting brackets for the rear bumper powder coated and got new mounting hardware.

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Here is the chip guard in the back with a new scuff plate. I also have a new trim piece that goes here and new door welting to finish it off.

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This truck the LSPV has been gone for who knows how long. It was simply bypassed in the rear and makes for some funky plumbing. I am not installing a LSPV so I needed to make this new forward brake fitting, the stock one with LSPV both fittings are 3-way. I am also removing the return line for the rear and installing a Wilwood proportioning valve on the rear line to dial it in.

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So as you can see there are many small details to deal with. The final phase of the build will be engine work, new flywheel and clutch and tcase rebuild. Then it is just installing the additions like roof rack and the project is wrapped up.

Cheers
 
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I tried to buy a brake line from megazip, first time using them.

They want $475 to ship it to me! Haha, that’s funny. I will not be buying from them.


Cheers
 
I'm still kind of amazed you are doing all this on a rock floor car port setup.


In winter in Idaho. I don’t let things stop me or make excuses as to why I can’t do something.

I got a good sized shop going up here where I live but we were unable to get the permit before winter started to set in. Now that we have the permit the weather has not been good for pouring concrete. Spring is around the corner though!


Cheers
 
In winter in Idaho. I don’t let things stop me or make excuses as to why I can’t do something.

I got a good sized shop going up here where I live but we were unable to get the permit before winter started to set in. Now that we have the permit the weather has not been good for pouring concrete. Spring is around the corner though!


Cheers

Good on you for that. I feel the same way. I once pulled a 258 Jeep engine and swapped a 4.0L fuel injected in with 1 set of metric and standard sockets, same in wrenches and screwdrivers...had to buy torx...and borrowed a cherrypicker. Those were the days.

My dad gave me all of his tools about 10 years ago along with quite a few airtools. I finally got an air compressor last year.

You make work what you have, although I've been wimpy with the cold we've had and I have a shop I can get it to mid 40's in negative weather.
 

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