Builds PZJ70 build-refurbish!? (1 Viewer)

[SNLC]

Good on you for that. I feel the same way. I once pulled a 258 Jeep engine and swapped a 4.0L fuel injected in with 1 set of metric and standard sockets, same in wrenches and screwdrivers...had to buy torx...and borrowed a cherrypicker. Those were the days.

My dad gave me all of his tools about 10 years ago along with quite a few airtools. I finally got an air compressor last year.

You make work what you have, although I've been wimpy with the cold we've had and I have a shop I can get it to mid 40's in negative weather.

I spent 25yrs in Wyoming, much colder there. I wear warm gear and run a heater. It does suck if it gets 30* in the work space but whatever I don’t let that stop me.

I had a 2500sqft shop in Wyoming but I left and am starting over when it comes to things like a shop.

I have all the tools here, a whole shipping container full of them.

Cheers

 

[FJBen]

That works! I've now got around a 3200sq ft shop, but have about 800ish of it blocked off and heated that I work in as a shop in the winter. Summer is a bit different.

 

[SNLC]

That works! I've now got around a 3200sq ft shop, but have about 800ish of it blocked off and heated that I work in as a shop in the winter. Summer is a bit different.

I am looking forward to a lift.



Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I picked this curing lamp up awhile ago, it’s totally rad!

That is all the brackets and brake line fittings plus clutch for the frame. Plus the steering damper frame mount.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

I also got the brake line fitting I needed for the RHS on the axle so I got the brake lines all plumbed axle side.

Got this prepared for install when I am ready.

Cheers

 

[Loober]

@SNLC Just curious, you are doing all this work why go with a stock booster/MC, from what I understand and personal experience they leave much to be desired and most upgrade to the 80 series booster/MC?

 

[SNLC]

Trans and tcase is out...

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Safari Tuff 1HZ clutch to stock 1PZ Aisin clutch.

Resurfaced 1HZ flywheel ready to go in.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

If you have been following the build you will remember this tool we made in Latin America.

Putting it to use again.


Cheers

 

[SNLC]

So my rough estimate for WMS to WMS on the front axle is 59". That is roughly 3" wider than the rear. I am looking at some billet steel rear spacers over any alloy ones, 1.5" wide.

Toyota axle widths

Toyota Axle Widths: 21 of 'em for Axle Swaps

The most Toyota axle widths you've ever seen: Specs and gotchas for minis, 4Runners, Tacos, T100s, and 40, 55, 60, and 80 Series Land Cruisers.

www.roundforge.com

I am liking the look of these spacers.

Toyota 70/75 Series 1.5" Wheel Spacer

Shop for 4x4 Accessories, Suspension Kits, 4x4 Parts and LED Lights to modify 4x4, 4WD vehicles, Toyota Hilux, LandCruiser, Nissan Navara D22, D40 and Patrol.

shop.snakeracing.com.au

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Gear box is all cleaned and ready for tear down.

It is an oldie but a goodie!

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

A little something I am working on...

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

Before I even start digging into this phase I find damaged wires.

Engine and trans harnesses pictured.

Cheers

 

[CharlesHS]

Wires looking like that could leave you stranded.
Can you determine whether the missing insulation and bare wires are due to age, mice or heat....
When I go back to PI; I will need to take a close look at the wiring on my PZJ75.

 

[SNLC]

It’s just age. Cracked sheath and the wire breaks fairly easily.

Cheers

 

[SNLC]

So I did a bunch if reading here on mud and other sites when I decided to do the 1HZ flywheel and clutch upgrade. I even used a part number that was posted for a Coaster bus clutch release bearing, by they way I call it a throw out bearing.

The Coaster is not the right throw out bearing.

What is needed to do this swap is a t/o bearing that makes up the difference in thickness between the dual mass flywheel and the single mass.

The Coaster t/o bearing is slightly longer overall vs a HDJ80 (1HZ equipped) but that is not what matters. What matters is the measurement from where the fork engages to the clutch side. This measurement is exactly the same Coaster to HDJ80. However, both of these the inside diameter of the t/o bearing is wrong and suits an H150/151. So it can’t be used without machining a custom sleeve which I am not interested in unless there is no other option.


I believe I have figured out what is the correct t/o bearing. I believe this to be 1999+ HZJ76/78/79 with the r151. I also believe it changed in length due to either the 1HZ being fitted in front of the R151 and or because of upgrades Toyota did to the R151. But that is just an educated guess.

Regardless, I am ordering the t/o bearing I think is correct.


Another thing I have found that was not mentioned in any of the threads I read on this swap is that the 1PZ flywheel has a locating-retaining pin on the crank that the 1HZ does not. So this will need to be removed to fit the 1HZ flywheel.

Oh ya, the clutch I am using is suited for a HDJ80/81.


On a separate note....

T-case is in the workshop ready to be torn down and rebuilt.

Cheers

 

[CharlesHS]

Thank you for the information on the conversion using the 1HZ flywheel...
I have a '93 PZJ75 w/ R141 that has 51,000 KM on it which may need a new clutch at some point.

 

[SNLC]

Thank you for the information on the conversion using the 1HZ flywheel...
I have a '93 PZJ75 w/ R141 that has 51,000 KM on it which may need a new clutch at some point.

The details, part numbers and info will be worked out and posted by the time I am done.


Everything looked really good in the Cruiser. I was expecting the flywheel to be damaged since people report probs with it and there was some noise coming from the bellhousing. Flywheel though was-is in excellent condition and the clutch is fairly new plus an Aisin. It looks like they skimped though on the t/o bearing and didn’t replace it. It is wasted and was where the noise was coming from.

I honestly don’t see issues with the dual mass flywheel, this one has 345,000kms on it and looks excellent. But for piece of mind and for the bigger clutch I think this is a good upgrade for this build. Last thing I need is for the client to have a failure in the boonies. I am betting he gets 50-100,000 trouble free miles out of the new clutch and related parts, worry free.

Cheers

 

[CharlesHS]

The details, part numbers and info will be worked out and posted by the time I am done.


Everything looked really good in the Cruiser. I was expecting the flywheel to be damaged since people report probs with it and there was some noise coming from the bellhousing. Flywheel though was-is in excellent condition and the clutch is fairly new plus an Aisin. It looks like they skimped though on the t/o bearing and didn’t replace it. It is wasted and was where the noise was coming from.

I honestly don’t see issues with the dual mass flywheel, this one has 345,000kms on it and looks excellent. But for piece of mind and for the bigger clutch I think this is a good upgrade for this build. Last thing I need is for the client to have a failure in the boonies. I am betting he gets 50-100,000 trouble free miles out of the new clutch and related parts, worry free.

Cheers

I was wondering how long the dual mass flywheel and clutches would last with the 1PZ. WOW.... 345,000.... Hope mine lasts that long.
About 10 years ago I had a similar issue with a 1998 Jeep Cherokee with AX-15. The TO bearing sounded like finger nails on a chalk board. I replaced the TO with a HD Timken bearing; changed the clutch, pressure plate and pilot bushing since I had everything removed.

 

[SNLC]

Figured I will blah on a bit here about the front suspension-axle conversion now that I have it done and all worked out.



The added width all came from using 80-series outers. Since I don’t have a 99-2007 70-series or front axle here I don’t know if width is the same. It is narrower than an 80 and I think also a 2007+ 70-series. Track width changed front to rear 3” but on the 2007+ 70’s it is 4”. The front axle I built is very close to 60-series width. So it looks like a person could swap a FF 60 rear axle in to correct the track width without using any spacers. That is for how I have done this conversion.

Again, I don’t know if the 99-2007 front axle is is about the same width I have now (59”) or is the same as 1990-1999 front HP axles. Either way you could definitely use the 99-07 front housing which would make the conversion easier and faster but you couldn’t set it up as nicely as I did without cutting everything off that housing too.

I did use 1999-2007 inner axle shafts. No worries at all and they are the perfect length. Mates right to the 80 birfield as well. I used 80 birfields suit to a part time 80-series.

Sway bar is way different 80 to 70-series. 80 won’t work and 2007+ 70 won’t work either. They 1999-07 sway bar fits perfect. I fitted the sway bar after I had set up the suspension because I had a hell of a time getting the 99-07 assembly. If setting up radius arm mounts on the axle housing though the sway bar could be used to locate these. I used 80-series frame brackets I welded onto the frame and the rest is 80 too. I only used the actual 70 sway bar.

Radius arms brackets frame side are completely different on an 80-series and won’t work without a lot of fab. 1999-07 are what you would want to use. However when I located the axle I used 2007+ brackets, I had to modify them to work but not a lot. The 99-07 would have been ideal but I didn’t have these in hand when I setup the front axle. When I looked at using them after the fact it was a no go simply because I had already set it up with the 2007+ and would have required unneeded fab work to use them. If doing it again though, the 99-07 brackets are the ones to use.

I did use a 99-07 tie rod. And going back to what width the 99-07 front axle is, it must be right there at 59ish”. I say this because the 99-07 tie rod dropped right into the steering arms out of the box without needing any adjustment.

I bolted the 70 HP free wheeling hubs on 80-series hubs. Zero issues and everything went together perfectly.

The 70-series frame side coil buckets and springs are definitely the parts to use. 80-series is a fairly larger coil spring.


The 70-series Panhard is a 1/4” larger diameter than the 80-series. They do use the same bushings. I used an 80 because the SLEE adjuster I bought would not work in the 70 Panhard without machining it. I suppose you could just buy the 1999-07 adjustable Panhard from a variety of companies and be set.

What else? Definitely don’t need lifted coil springs unless you want 4+ inches of lift or have a very heavy front end. I still don’t know if I am good front to rear rake wise with the lifted rear springs but it is obviously very close.

The 80-series frame side Panhard mount is completely different than a 70. It is also mounted further back on the frame and I think would be harder to fit. I used a 2007+ which was a bit long but no biggie to just cut it off. If doing it again, I would get the 99-07 mount.


Cheers