- Thread starter
- #461
Sweet, that was the one I was eyeing on Amazon. For a tool I won’t use a ton it’s the price point. Thanks for the referral.
Builds Putting the rust demon at bay (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter archie73
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Pics. Armor hides most of it. Front fender mounting holes are approximately 2" apart. So the bottom holes just get bolted to the top holes. It gives tire clearance without cutting body or limiting up travel. I've not noticed any increase in center of gravity, it's very stable. In the side pic before I installed my sliders it's more obvious-especially since the pic was taken when the person was crouched on they're knees. My rockers have 2" cut off for better obstacle clearance. If not cut, the gap wouldn't be noticeable without sliders. The only other noticeable gap is in the rear fender opening you can see frame space. I thought about hiding that but so few people notice I have a body lift currently, I will leave it as is. The body lift is one of the best modifications I've done to my 40. It cost me maybe 200 bucks. However with your setup, adding 37s may be approaching the limit of your rear axle shafts offroad unless you kept thin wall tube on your driveshaft.
- Thread starter
- #463
Thanks for the pics, that really shows me what I was wondering about. If I went that direct I’d have to think about a couple of things:
- 2" body + 1" tire lift means 3", which I’m not sure I have the garage clearance for. This would definitely eliminate me having a rack on top as it barely fits now. Not sure how a hardtop would fit, but I haven’t had one on it for years…
- my running boards are mounted to my sliders and the lift would create a gap. They’re just metal and could be reworked.
- My steering joint is at max angle currently- this would need reimagining.
- I *think* my rear gap would be hidden by my bumper & swing outs. Like you said this is easy enough to correct.
- Tube fenders??? Maybe that’d justify a tubing bender….Probably not.
- This reminds me, I need to tie the cage into the frame still.
In an ideal world I would find beadlocks with 35‘s. Or the new rims would take my old M/Ts, but I have 15’s and a lot the used ones seem to be 17’s. Unfortunately, new beadlocks AND tires are not in the budget. I’m still looking and still considering inner beadlocks- I just wish I could find more reviews of people that use them. Really it’s just the classic want vs what’s realistically in the budget. Do I need them- no, but this is just toy anyways..
I do like the look of your rig and I always appreciate your feedback. How’s the southeast wheeling treating your inner mountain build?
I haven't been wheeling yet. Both cruisers are kind of stored away for now. Moving has been pretty complicated. I have a lot of trails planned out though to hit eventually.
- Thread starter
- #465
Glad to hear there’s a plan. It’ll work out, give it time. Thanks for all the help.
- Thread starter
- #466
So begins the adventure in amateur mechanics. I did my YouTubing and read through accounts of people like me doing locker installs .I was emboldened.
First step was to make it easier to work on, so I took some measurements and broke out the plasma table at work. This thing is my favorite new toy. I made a quick sketch on the laptop and before I knew it I had a yoke to bolt onto the differential flange. A little scrap pipe and I had a way to mount and swivel it in the vice.
Here’s the gear pattern before I tore it down. I think the differential was in good shape. It pains me to replace all the hardware since it was in good shape, but I understand this is the way.
Then I forgot to press the inner(rear?) bearing out and fubar-ed the bearing spacer knocking the race out with a hammer and drift. Luckily the new install kit comes with a set of shims. Time will tell…
This mother is kicking my butt. I’ve tried two different pullers, but it keeps deflecting one way or the other. I have it in the freezer currently, hoping the shaft will contract more then the bearing I’m open to suggestions.
On the flip side, the ring gear went on easy as can be with a little from the oven. Bearing will have to be sit til next week.
No pics but I also got the air fitting tapped into the case.
My initial backlash measurement was 14 thousands. In my internet research I found that the backlash should be 5-10 thousands or returned to the initial backlash. Which is it?
In my mind, this’ll likely honing in three steps, this will be the first. The next is to finish the differential assembly. Hopefully the next week. After that I’ll install it with the chromoly shafts. Hopefully all this happens by mid February, because February 27th I’m headed to Sand Hollow!!! Hopefully, it doesn’t snow!!!
First step was to make it easier to work on, so I took some measurements and broke out the plasma table at work. This thing is my favorite new toy. I made a quick sketch on the laptop and before I knew it I had a yoke to bolt onto the differential flange. A little scrap pipe and I had a way to mount and swivel it in the vice.
Then I forgot to press the inner(rear?) bearing out and fubar-ed the bearing spacer knocking the race out with a hammer and drift. Luckily the new install kit comes with a set of shims. Time will tell…
On the flip side, the ring gear went on easy as can be with a little from the oven. Bearing will have to be sit til next week.
No pics but I also got the air fitting tapped into the case.
My initial backlash measurement was 14 thousands. In my internet research I found that the backlash should be 5-10 thousands or returned to the initial backlash. Which is it?
In my mind, this’ll likely honing in three steps, this will be the first. The next is to finish the differential assembly. Hopefully the next week. After that I’ll install it with the chromoly shafts. Hopefully all this happens by mid February, because February 27th I’m headed to Sand Hollow!!! Hopefully, it doesn’t snow!!!
I’ve never taken one apart without a press. In a pinch, you could also cut the bearing cage off with a die grinder and then score the race with a cutoff wheel. Slow is the key word here. After that you should be able to crack the race with a couple hits with a hammer and cold chisel. All that said, I would look for a hydraulic press first.
As far as the backlash goes, if all the bearings were good and preloaded before you took it apart, I would set it back up with the 0.014” backlash. With a used gear set, I was always taught to make it match. I’m sure there will be other, more technical opinions come from others.
Good luck, man. You’re off to a great start. Never hurts to know more about your machine and this is how you do it.
- Thread starter
- #468
I was thinking on those lines as well. Always good to get some affirmation. I’m far from giving up, I just ran out of time. I’ll be back on it. Maybe the freezer trick will work in my favor….
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
In your pics of the puller your jaw arms are not parallel to each other which might be causing the deflection of the bearing spitter. Most bearing pullers I've seen screw into the threaded holes in bearing splitter and pull evenly and are parallel. I think the splitters bolts need to be pretty tight. When you use a press, they have plates that sort of go around the circumference bearing splitter to support it evenly. As mentioned b4, you can cut the inner race then crack it with a chisel. Fyi, once the old bearings are removed, I stick the new bearings in the oven for a while so they easily slide on to the journal.
- Thread starter
- #470
You have a keen eye. My first attempt with the splitter was with the supplied thread-in puller, but it suffered major deflection. This monster puller was my follow up attempt, when it didn’t work I decided to regroup and ask for advice. If the freezer trick doesn’t work, I’ll cut it off.
The deflection in the splitter was noted and I tightened them enough to remove the threads from the nuts. It’s a tight fit on the bearing. I could use a bigger one, if I had one.
It’ll give- one way or the other.
I used the oven for the ring gear, slipped right on. I’ll keep the practice on the bearings. ARB recommends ~200 deg for the ring gear. Will that temperature damage a bearing?
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Shouldn't.
I used a SKF bearing heater when I rebuilt my rear diff, I hit something like 225F and dropped the bearing in place. A couple love taps with some pvc pipe just to make sure it was set in place properly and I went on my way.
As far as getting that bearing off, I used a press that I had access to. It might be worth a shot to hit it with a torch, and Kroil or something to try to break it loose. Try to focus heat on the race.
- Thread starter
- #472
Got to the top of the hill, took a couple glamour shots and headed down. Stalled and won’t restart. Used the jumper box- nothing. I mean nothing. Nada. So I begin looking at fuses. Fusible links. More nada. Decided to coast down to the house. While enjoying the four wheel discs, it occurred to me that the rough idle and cold temps were possible clues to my current situation. I think I should mention this battery was a super saver special at Wally World six or seven years ago. When I tested the battery at home is had .48 volts. Did I mention it was cold out?
I’ve never “broken” a battery before. Really threw me for loop up on the hill. Jumper boxes aren’t very useful if they don’t sense a battery. That makes two batteries the 40(me) has killed this year. The AGM house battery is at work on the snap on charger. It’s back up to 12volts last I checked, but I have my doubts. Honestly, I can’t complain about the Wally battery, it lasted a lot longer than AGM that was barely used.
Oh well, no one ever said owning Land Cruisers are cheap.
- Thread starter
- #473
There’s always issues doing projects when you have the time. In this case I can’t seem to remember if I had a master shim underneath the bearing. I’m certain that I saved all the parts, and I have the original shims I pulled out of it, but I cannot find master shim for underneath the rear bearing on the pinion.
Is it possible that a 1973 did not have a master shim underneath the rear pinion bearing? Thanks for your help. I’m using the old tram video as an example. Perhaps he’s rebuilding i’m using the @ottram video as a guide. Perhaps he’s rebuilding a different year.
Is it possible that a 1973 did not have a master shim underneath the rear pinion bearing? Thanks for your help. I’m using the old tram video as an example. Perhaps he’s rebuilding i’m using the @ottram video as a guide. Perhaps he’s rebuilding a different year.
Master shim goes between the pinion head bearing (larger one) and the pinion gear. This moves the teeth location forward or back while the bearings stay in place. It is possible that Toyota could’ve built a diff setup without a master shim, but it’s pretty unlikely.
- Thread starter
- #475
That was how I was thinking, but I’ve been careful to save every piece. The big shim in the picture is to one that goes under the race. I’ll look again, but the more I think about it, I’m pretty sure there wasn’t one there when I pull the bearing.
What does your pattern look like?
- Thread starter
- #477
- Thread starter
- #479
Not yet, I was looking for affirmation (and time) before I put the new bearing on. I’ll be back at it this coming week.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
The old pattern looks like it could have been moved out a fuzz.
Makes me think it's been worked on before.
Makes me think it's been worked on before.
