Projecting, tinkering, fiddle-farting around: whatcha building?
- Thread starter DRANGED
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,464
- Messages
- 36,613
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
Just put the last coat of stucco on the new service panel of our guest house. Upgraded from a 50A service to 200A.
Note: I would have uploaded a file 1/8 this size if the stupid algorithm didn’t rotate my pic.
Note: I would have uploaded a file 1/8 this size if the stupid algorithm didn’t rotate my pic.
Used a bunch of scrap to make a serving tray, for carrying stuff out to the Blackstone griddle. Panel is a glue up of maple, black walnut, cherry, rosewood, and a piece of something I'm not sure what it is, maybe Tulipwood.
Sides are hard maple with walnut splines in the miters.
Sides are hard maple with walnut splines in the miters.
I needed a small router table.
Cut some steel.
Cleaned it and added nuts to the bottom.
Clamped for welding.
More clamping and welding
Cut some steel.
Cleaned it and added nuts to the bottom.
Clamped for welding.
More clamping and welding
Here is the frame with feet.
And to give you an idea of its purpose.
Next I will be making a table top for it.
And to give you an idea of its purpose.
Next I will be making a table top for it.
More work in the woodshop... Been wanting to build a drill press table for my HF 17". Came up with this:
Was a bit of a challenge relocating the table raise crank and table lock. I had my son machine a couple pieced of 5/8" rod, added a couple of pillow blocks, used the HF crank, and added a short ratchet to the locking side.
Cut up a dozen inserts for the table, and it's ready to go. I'm also Hack Fabin' up a plate for my 4" vise to mount on the table.
Was a bit of a challenge relocating the table raise crank and table lock. I had my son machine a couple pieced of 5/8" rod, added a couple of pillow blocks, used the HF crank, and added a short ratchet to the locking side.
Cut up a dozen inserts for the table, and it's ready to go. I'm also Hack Fabin' up a plate for my 4" vise to mount on the table.
- Thread starter
- #687
Came up with a conductor head design for nine scuppers.
Side details.
Fresh off the plasma table and ready for breaking.
Ready for sides.
Side details.
Fresh off the plasma table and ready for breaking.
Ready for sides.
The sides were were broken.
18 ready.
Takes up!
Ready for welding.
Ready for next phase.
18 ready.
Takes up!
Ready for welding.
Ready for next phase.
The downspouts will be 4”x4” 14 ga. so receivers were made and burned in.
All blended.
Making custom tabs. The 2”x1” give the box a classy look.
One down , eight to go.
On hold for the moment due to other projects.
All blended.
Making custom tabs. The 2”x1” give the box a classy look.
One down , eight to go.
On hold for the moment due to other projects.
I'm not as creative as most of you folks here. But thought maybe you'd like to see what I made to replace my back seat in my 2011 T4R. Go to this page and look at comments #108-113.
forum.ih8mud.com
It works great! Very strong and carries anything I've put on it so far.
5th Gen 4Runner pic thread
72 in May. Retire Wildlife Biologist with the Feds. That's great! Retired geologist and physical scientist with the feds here.
forum.ih8mud.com
It works great! Very strong and carries anything I've put on it so far.
- Thread starter
- #692
30 min welding!
made easy-mount traction board kit.
I have short-channel unistrut on the roof platform for roof box mounting, and with minimal moving they make easy mounting for traction boards (yup, I impulsed them on WICKED sale last spring (and later the mounting pins), and have yet to fab my temp mounting system.
But, I didn't want to mess around with loose washers and nuts and bolts and stuff, so I tacked some wire to make unistrut washer kits and therefore EASY mounting of the board holders when I plan to carry them on a trip.
WAAAAYY easier than all loose bits flopping around!!
made easy-mount traction board kit.
I have short-channel unistrut on the roof platform for roof box mounting, and with minimal moving they make easy mounting for traction boards (yup, I impulsed them on WICKED sale last spring (and later the mounting pins), and have yet to fab my temp mounting system.
But, I didn't want to mess around with loose washers and nuts and bolts and stuff, so I tacked some wire to make unistrut washer kits and therefore EASY mounting of the board holders when I plan to carry them on a trip.
WAAAAYY easier than all loose bits flopping around!!
- Thread starter
- #693
NicksFJ40
Doesn’t read post longer than two paragraphs.
Forged a towel rack.
built this lamp in 89 as a Christmas gift for my family. Back in those days I was starting off on my own and was basically broke but with left over stock, I was able to come up with a lasting gift. Transplanted once in 98 and there she sits. It had been ten years since the lamp last lit because of bad wires and outdated electrical components.
The lamp design was inspired by a wind chime and uses four 6” sch. 40 pipe sections. Each section got a pattern cut using a cutting g torch.
New wire were fished as well as a new switch, GFI, and weather box.
The lamp heads were also replaced and weather proofed with silicone.
The wires also were protected with marine grade heat shrink. Also added terminals to allow the removal of each section without cutting any wires.
The fixtures installed.
More to add.
The lamp design was inspired by a wind chime and uses four 6” sch. 40 pipe sections. Each section got a pattern cut using a cutting g torch.
New wire were fished as well as a new switch, GFI, and weather box.
The lamp heads were also replaced and weather proofed with silicone.
The wires also were protected with marine grade heat shrink. Also added terminals to allow the removal of each section without cutting any wires.
The fixtures installed.
More to add.
Last edited:
A new box cover, GFI, and switch.
The top where the wires exit required UV protection so I’m trying out this loom designed for race application. The loom can take direct heat contact of 500°f so I’m hopeful the wires will last for a long while.
The shadows this lamp cast is pretty cool.
33 years old this Christmas.
The top where the wires exit required UV protection so I’m trying out this loom designed for race application. The loom can take direct heat contact of 500°f so I’m hopeful the wires will last for a long while.
The shadows this lamp cast is pretty cool.
33 years old this Christmas.
NicksFJ40
Doesn’t read post longer than two paragraphs.
The lamp looks great! Very cool.
Thank you!
Just finished these yesterday, 8 tea boxes for Christmas presents.
This was my inspiration:
These things were WAAAAAY more work than I anticipated. These YouTube videos make things like this look to easy, but in this case it took many more hours than I expected. I ended up doing some research on different tea bags and found the dimensions in his plans were too small for most of the brands out there, so I made mine a little bigger, they are about 4"W x 8"L x 4"H. The pattern plywood was a crazy amount of work, and I'll probably never do this process again, as it's very wasteful for expensive baltic birch plywood. Most of the plywood ends up in the dust collector as sawdust! Sooo much sanding, my new drum sander was key to this project.
Sides are white ash, the darker liners and splines are Sapele (similar to mahogany). Dark squares in the patterns are black walnut.
One is different, a neighbor gave me a hunk of wood from the pile he inherited when his dad passed, I'm still not sure what it is, but we think it's tulipwood. I made him a box as a thanks.
I used the Odie's Oil to finish them, weird stuff to use but it really did come out nice, very smooth.
With tea bags...
This was my inspiration:
These things were WAAAAAY more work than I anticipated. These YouTube videos make things like this look to easy, but in this case it took many more hours than I expected. I ended up doing some research on different tea bags and found the dimensions in his plans were too small for most of the brands out there, so I made mine a little bigger, they are about 4"W x 8"L x 4"H. The pattern plywood was a crazy amount of work, and I'll probably never do this process again, as it's very wasteful for expensive baltic birch plywood. Most of the plywood ends up in the dust collector as sawdust! Sooo much sanding, my new drum sander was key to this project.
Sides are white ash, the darker liners and splines are Sapele (similar to mahogany). Dark squares in the patterns are black walnut.
One is different, a neighbor gave me a hunk of wood from the pile he inherited when his dad passed, I'm still not sure what it is, but we think it's tulipwood. I made him a box as a thanks.
I used the Odie's Oil to finish them, weird stuff to use but it really did come out nice, very smooth.
With tea bags...
- Thread starter
- #700
60 min welding proj.
Fixed a lil space heater.
(learning happened...I should've just ground the paint off the whole surface not just the strip I thought I'd tack to... Those welds barely capture metal and mostly just pooled on the paint and burned through the tube on the other side...)
Fixed a lil space heater.
(learning happened...I should've just ground the paint off the whole surface not just the strip I thought I'd tack to... Those welds barely capture metal and mostly just pooled on the paint and burned through the tube on the other side...)
Last edited:
