Did you have to drill different holes for the Tacoma mechanism? This would eliminate the rusty chain for most and in my case get rid of the ghetto-fab rebar zip tie contraption.
Project Space Shuttle - 5.0 powered '84 FJ60 on Coilovers
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Did you have to drill different holes for the Tacoma mechanism? This would eliminate the rusty chain for most and in my case get rid of the ghetto-fab rebar zip tie contraption.
- Thread starter
- #122
Did you have to drill different holes for the Tacoma mechanism? This would eliminate the rusty chain for most and in my case get rid of the ghetto-fab rebar zip tie contraption.
Yes. I had to drill 4 new holes. It was an arduous 15 minute project (not including paint drying time). Thought I would recommend pressure washing the underside of your rig prior to this project.
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- #123
Project Space Shuttle in the dunes:
My brother spotted your 60 at OSH the other day and sent me a pic, didn't take me long to recognize it from this build thread!
5204 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
5204 by Darrell Vaughn, on Flickr
- Thread starter
- #125
That's certainly it. OSH helps me displace the number of metric fasteners in the Space Shuttle. We didn't go to the moon on meters!
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Hey Ford, is your 60 as low as it could possibly be? I'm very intrigued by the idea of a 3-link at close to stock ride height, and very interested in 63" Chevy springs for the flex and ride quality. What do you think about the same setup as you have now but with the rear SUA and the front a little lower?
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- #127
Matt,
Looking back at the project I'm fairly certain I could have built it a bit lower than it is now. The Chevy springs actually sat a few inches lower than they do now. I installed an add a leaf which added about 2-3 inches of height.
SUA with an add a leaf would be an awesome way to get your rig about 3-4 inches higher than stock.
As far as the front I'm not sure how low you can get it. You run into a lot of clearance issues with the links, track bar and drag link. I would need to take some more measurements to actually advise properly.
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My original plan was to swap an 80 frame and suspension under my 62 -
After seeing people convert their 80's to a 3-link front and trash talk the 80 radius arms I'm leaning toward a 3-link. With the rear 63" Chevy springs I'm going off the good reviews from 90FJ/Cruisified, FLCruiser, CruiserDrew, FordFascist, GLTHFJ60, Steve-O, and I think Brokenparts had them in his old 60.
That's enough bad-ass trucks to convince me.
I'm more concerned with road manners than anything, as the 60 Series has too much sheetmetal to warrant needing a suspension with so much articulation off-road IMO, that was poorly worded but I think my point is clear.
Now that's not to say I don't wheel it, because I do.
Realistically I'd like it to sit about 4" taller then stock, ideally I'd like it to be stock ride height but I don't have the heart to cut the sheetmetal required to fit 35's or 37's at stock ride height. It's my first and last car, daily driver and I want to to look as least mildly presentable.
So I guess the long term plan is stay SUA in the rear but possibly run lift springs so gain another inch from what I have now. Link the front and keep it low as possible. 1" body lift.
Then install 37's and wince!
Sorry to hijack your thread, I forgot that I have my own
After seeing people convert their 80's to a 3-link front and trash talk the 80 radius arms I'm leaning toward a 3-link. With the rear 63" Chevy springs I'm going off the good reviews from 90FJ/Cruisified, FLCruiser, CruiserDrew, FordFascist, GLTHFJ60, Steve-O, and I think Brokenparts had them in his old 60.
That's enough bad-ass trucks to convince me.
I'm more concerned with road manners than anything, as the 60 Series has too much sheetmetal to warrant needing a suspension with so much articulation off-road IMO, that was poorly worded but I think my point is clear.
Now that's not to say I don't wheel it, because I do.
Realistically I'd like it to sit about 4" taller then stock, ideally I'd like it to be stock ride height but I don't have the heart to cut the sheetmetal required to fit 35's or 37's at stock ride height. It's my first and last car, daily driver and I want to to look as least mildly presentable.
So I guess the long term plan is stay SUA in the rear but possibly run lift springs so gain another inch from what I have now. Link the front and keep it low as possible. 1" body lift.
Then install 37's and wince!
Sorry to hijack your thread, I forgot that I have my own
hamishpotter
SILVER Star
can you post a few more pics of the Shuttle? really love this build, great work
My original plan was to swap an 80 frame and suspension under my 62 -
After seeing people convert their 80's to a 3-link front and trash talk the 80 radius arms I'm leaning toward a 3-link. With the rear 63" Chevy springs I'm going off the good reviews from 90FJ/Cruisified, FLCruiser, CruiserDrew, FordFascist, GLTHFJ60, Steve-O, and I think Brokenparts had them in his old 60.
That's enough bad-ass trucks to convince me.
I'm more concerned with road manners than anything, as the 60 Series has too much sheetmetal to warrant needing a suspension with so much articulation off-road IMO, that was poorly worded but I think my point is clear.
Now that's not to say I don't wheel it, because I do.
Realistically I'd like it to sit about 4" taller then stock, ideally I'd like it to be stock ride height but I don't have the heart to cut the sheetmetal required to fit 35's or 37's at stock ride height. It's my first and last car, daily driver and I want to to look as least mildly presentable.
So I guess the long term plan is stay SUA in the rear but possibly run lift springs so gain another inch from what I have now. Link the front and keep it low as possible. 1" body lift.
Then install 37's and wince!
Sorry to hijack your thread, I forgot that I have my own
Your plan won't work without liberal sawzall.
At 2.5" lift and 35's, I rub all over the place with 35's. And that is with liberally cut fenders.
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- #132
I don't know why people start at this idea. It's always WAAAAAAY more work. I'm glad you abandoned it.
I don't think I'd count the radius arms out completely. They are a ton simpler to install and have excellent road manners. My Early Bronco has extended radius arms and I don't plan on changing that at all. That said if you are starting with a bare housing, it's not too much extra work to just put on 3 link brackets from RuffStuff.
I'm not completely sold on this idea, however, having done it already. I'm not convinced you can't just slap in an 80 series front end complete with only needing to pay attention to spring buckets and a track bar mount. I would keep that in your mind as it may be easier.
Suspension articulation died 15 years ago. It's nice to have mad flex BRAH but it's much more preferable offroad to have a stable vehicle than one that can look cool on the 4Wheel Parts ramp. My flatty still has 14" of travel at all corners but is extremely stable offroad. The Space Shuttle is even more stable.
You've got the right idea. I have a rock crawler so I had to be honest with this rig - it's much more of a highway / snow / mild trail rig. Though admittedly my definition of mild is probably a lot more extreme than most people.
For this, I would spring over the rear with a stock 4x4 63" Chevy spring. 4x4 springs have 3 leafs + overload. 2wd springs have 2 leafs + overload. I'm estimating that you are probably going to have a lot more in the back than me, so it should sag down a bit.
You're dreaming if you want to fit 35s on one of these without a s*** ton of lift and arrogant use of the Sawzall. The distance between my front and rear axles from the tops of the tube to the bottom of the frame rail is 15" front and rear. Measure yours.
My guess is that you could drop 2-3 inches out of mine and clear 35s just fine, so that would put you at about a foot. These things were LOW from the factory. Very low.
My goal was to actively discriminate against the short, the obese and children - just like the 1980's. That's why this is tall - because I had fat people. But I digress.
So I guess the long term plan is stay SUA in the rear but possibly run lift springs so gain another inch from what I have now. Link the front and keep it low as possible. 1" body lift.
Then install 37's and wince!
Sorry to hijack your thread, I forgot that I have my own
I think I would do none of that.
- Spring over the rear with Chevys
- No body lift
- Throw in an 80 series front
- Linking and keeping it low is very hard to do
Yep. I bet those fenders got Bernie Sanders level cutting.
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- #133
Here you go.
My LED light Mod. These are wired to the cargo light switch.
Just enough light to see what you're doing, but not enough to be overwhelming.
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- #134
The Toyota has now been relegated to being reliable transportation so its spot in the garage has been requisitioned:
Yes, that is a Ford 1220 tractor - which as a side note shares the same starter as a 22R-E. Weird. It's diesel and has a smoke stack. I win.
Go outside, Toyota.
Yes, that is a Ford 1220 tractor - which as a side note shares the same starter as a 22R-E. Weird. It's diesel and has a smoke stack. I win.
Go outside, Toyota.
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Do you like Fords?
I think that's a bit of an understatement. I mean his Toyota is even a Ford.
@FordFascist That is an awesome garage/ backyard(?)
cwwfj60
Supporting Vendor
is that a shelby under the cover?
Love this build, very nice work, and ya that's an awesome shop/backyard.....so jealous....
Love this build, very nice work, and ya that's an awesome shop/backyard.....so jealous....
I would assume that is a Mustang under the cover?
Don't drive the Super Duty everyday?
Don't drive the Super Duty everyday?
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His Toyota Pickup has a Ford V8 as well.
@FordFascist can you quantify/explain how much better your new suspension rides or performs? Maybe hard to say objectively because of your hard work but I'm def interested to hear what you feel like you gain on & off road
but I'm def interested to hear what you feel like you gain on & off road
