City Racer Carb 84’ FJ60

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That part you plugged on the fender has no vacuum going to it so plugging it won’t change anything.
was it running when you took the picture of the float level?
I may be wrong, but isn’t that vacuum widget the AC idle up? If so it would have full manifold vac at all times via the small side port on the brake booster vac source. If the AC button is off there would be no pass through of vacuum, but maybe the electric are broken an the valve is opening. Pretty low odds of that but never say never.
 
I'm looking at the one he capped on the inner fender-I don't see any vacuum supply to it?
True. Not enough coffee yet!

I'm alo looking back through the photos and the brake booster vac source that screws into the manifold doesn't have the second port for AC, so probably a factory non-AC truck anyway. Yeah, capping or leaving open that vac valve shouldn't be doing a darn thing.
 
True. Not enough coffee yet!

I'm alo looking back through the photos and the brake booster vac source that screws into the manifold doesn't have the second port for AC, so probably a factory non-AC truck anyway. Yeah, capping or leaving open that vac valve shouldn't be doing a darn thing.
@camotubebemder, you were correct. Drove it to work this morning and back to the same issue. 3 things I did yesterday, cap those nipples, disconnect and reconnect the fuel fuel cutoff solenoid and manually push the choke linkage. And ran it great…
 
Check the float level in the window with the engine idling
Float level is just above the bottom notch on the window from the last time I took a picture. From what i understand this is passable.
 
Thanks @CruiserTrash and everyone else! I double checked all my D smog and forgot to cap off these two inlets. Not sure what they are, but once I did that everything’s almost back to “normal.” Now I have to go and retune the carburetor. And check advance, I’m assuming the dizzy is not curved, back to timing. My vacuum at the manifold is 20-22 currently. View attachment 3820674

I may be wrong, but isn’t that vacuum widget the AC idle up? If so it would have full manifold vac at all times via the small side port on the brake booster vac source. If the AC button is off there would be no pass through of vacuum, but maybe the electric are broken an the valve is opening. Pretty low odds of that but never say never.


That is the VSV for the A/C Idle Up Solenoid that is now missing with new carburetor. The port on the finned 'cooler' on the rear of the intake should be capped.

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Yes it was.
 
You should watch some videos on checking for vacuum leaks (with carb cleaner)around the carb and where the intake manifold bolts to the head. If you don't find any vacuum leaks I would check the fuel pump. Do you have the choke cable hooked up? does it run better with the choke pulled out a bit?
 
You should watch some videos on checking for vacuum leaks (with carb cleaner)around the carb and where the intake manifold bolts to the head. If you don't find any vacuum leaks I would check the fuel pump. Do you have the choke cable hooked up? does it run better with the choke pulled out a bit?
I have checked for vacuum leaks and nothing. I will verify the choke cable setting again. But the fuel pump was good when I pulled the old carb off. New carb on 30 minutes later and this issue. It’s interesting that it ran so well after manually pushing the choke linkage. Or was it disconnecting the idle solenoid and reconnecting, hahaha.

I will check the VSV port as well.

Thanks again for all your help!
 
That is the VSV for the A/C Idle Up Solenoid that is now missing with new carburetor. The port on the finned 'cooler' on the rear of the intake should be capped.

View attachment 3821111
I don’t have the port on my rig…I do see some oil coming from my fuel pump or something leaking and will address that with a new fuel pump but I don’t think that’s the issue.



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I do believe that fuel pump has a spacer so get 2 gaskets.
A new fuel filter would be a good idea too or at least check the one on there to make sure it is in the right flow direction.
 
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I don’t have the port on my rig…I do see some oil coming from my fuel pump or something leaking and will address that with a new fuel pump but I don’t think that’s the issue.



View attachment 3821999
View attachment 3822000

The pump could be leaking from the weep hole or past the block/insulator gaskets. If it is original (looks like it), prolly a good time to replace.

Either get the OEM Kyosan or Toyota. Some of the Rockauto aftermarket were reboxed Kyosan, but some are CCP clones. Been a while so who knows what's what, anymore. And as stated, there are two gaskets and an 'insulator' between the pump and the block. You may need to replace the insulator also, and it's available from Toyota for a few bux.

Matt has a good price on the kit:

 
I do believe that fuel pump has a spacer so get 2 gaskets.
A new fuel filter would be a good idea too or at least check the one on there to make sure it is in the right flow direction.
Noted, the fuel filter is brand new and pointed in the right direction. Will order a new fuel pump today. Looks like Matt’s kit has everything I need? Or do I also need the “insulator?”
IMG_0401.webp
 
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