- Thread starter
- #41
Perfect, I have had good luck with @ToyotaMatt and he has taken time to text me and even a call. I’m just wondering if that pump will work since it says 3F.
City Racer Carb 84’ FJ60 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter carlosfj80
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- Thread starter
- #43
I decided to retune the carb again, just in case I missed something. It’s doing the same thing…dying at hard braking and hesitation/missing when accelerating under 2000rpms and the rpms drop below idle when revving the engine in neutral and then bounce back up. I went to check the timing but I can’t see the marks with the timing light. So I will need to get down there and paint them. I didn’t have anything to paint with. I did decide to change the oil in my frustration so that went well at least.
- Thread starter
- #45
So I’m thinking out loud here, when neutral it revs up fine, underload it does not in first gear. Could it be the smaller jet this carb comes with? I know city racer says on the website you may need to change the jet, but I’m at 265 feet above sea level. I’m lost guys. I can’t figure it out. So frustrating. Has anyone changed the jet with the carb installed on the truck?
One would think that there was an SST screwdriver/grabber type thing that would go into the float chamber through the drain plugs, unscrew and pull out a jet (with the installation of another jet just being the reverse ). Alas, I have not yet found such a tool. I can change a jet with most of the carb on the manifold, but I have to pull off the top air horn to either fit my fat fingers, or, better yet, forceps, down into the float bowl to pull out the old jet and position the new jet for the screwdriver to turn in.
- Thread starter
- #47
I appreciate it, does anyone know what the stock jets are for an 84’ carb?
@carlosfj80 - I’m sorry if I missed this, but did you hook up a vacuum gauge and see where you are running? Once you ensure vacuum is not the issue, as folks mentioned you will almost certainly need to advance the timing.
Earlier you also mentioned backfiring?
I would second getting pump/parts from Cruiser Outfitters or CityRacer. You would have likely had it already yesterday.
Earlier you also mentioned backfiring?
I would second getting pump/parts from Cruiser Outfitters or CityRacer. You would have likely had it already yesterday.
Sorry - saw that you mentioned you were at 20-22 for vacuum.
I don’t have the CR carb but some folks have had issues with the fuel cut/decel solenoid/vacuum switch system on installation of the Fuji carb (which CruiserTrash asked about).
forum.ih8mud.com
Not sure if that would be full explanation though for what you have. I don’t know why some folks seem to have issues and others don’t - at least from my limited knowledge.
I don’t have the CR carb but some folks have had issues with the fuel cut/decel solenoid/vacuum switch system on installation of the Fuji carb (which CruiserTrash asked about).
Fuji 21100-61012 DeSmog Carb vs OEM FJ60 Carb - Fuel Cut Solenoid (ICS) Analysis/Questions
This system has been discussed before, but I want to delve deeper with this thread. Fair warning, it goes a bit out in the weeds... I'm about to install a CityRacer/Fuji desmog carb (CR/Fuji) on my desmogged (still have Decel Fuel Cut, PCV, Distr Vent, & EVAP) '87 FJ60. Could keep the HIC/HAI...
forum.ih8mud.com
Not sure if that would be full explanation though for what you have. I don’t know why some folks seem to have issues and others don’t - at least from my limited knowledge.
What would the decel rich exhaust mean?
Just out of curiosity—why not run with the stock carb? Get it rebuilt by a guru; they run awesome if you set them up right. Read further if you need convincing.
I was full desmog and deep into an engine rebuild and was lazy and didn’t want to go with the stock carb. I went down the path of the City Racer carb and was convinced I had an intake/vacuum leak—that’s how badly it ran. I got my stock one rebuilt, capped everything off except vac advance and fuel cut, and the rig was way happier. Granted, I didn’t have the time or patience to fiddle with the City Racer carb—which may be doable—but throwing that thing in a box, never to be seen again, helped my mental space with the build.
I spoke with OTRAMM on his podcast the other day (Episode 3 if you wanna watch). From my understanding, to get the stock carb honed in (which mine isn’t QUITE there yet), it takes some feel to get it right. There are lots of screws and nuances. I’m at elevation in Idaho at 5,800 feet, and I have the thing advanced like 15 degrees mechanical (don’t do this at sea level). I’m running high-altitude jets. Once you get the stock carb right, they run absolutely awesome, even with full desmog.
OTRAMM also told me in a PM that his experience with City Racer carbs is that they dump fuel into the intake and cause it to stumble—so he had to put on a different carb. I had this experience as well. This is what he said:
"I've only dealt with one City Racer carb. It was a complete pile of garbage that puked fuel and wouldn't run. Put a rebuilt OE carb on, and the truck ran great. Soapy water won't find vac leaks since there's only vacuum after the throttle blades. I'd try your original carb or see if you can borrow a known good one before you do too much testing."
I borrowed a stock carb from my neighbor and had the biggest smile on my face when I finally had a drivable rig.
Note that TOP SPEED shouldn’t be a measure of carb performance or tune. Even UNTUNED with my neighbor’s carb, I could get to 60-65 mph. In my experience, the faster I go, the more hiccups with the carb get concealed. Advancing timing and honing it gave me higher mph, but just because the City Racer carb seemingly operates well in certain conditions doesn’t mean there isn’t a fundamental problem with it.
Have you checked to make sure your vac advance diaphragm is working (holding vacuum)?
I’m STILL honing in my carb, but I feel like I’m driving a tractor-race car after getting mine fully rebuilt, tinkering with jetting/timing, adjusting valves, etc.—especially with the headers, btw...
Don’t expect to watch the lean drop video and have a perfectly tuned rig. I’m a living example—and there’s a ton that is not in the FSM that a trained tech or hot rodder would know and be able to feel out, but guys like you and I wouldn’t know.
You may be able to get city racer working, but I went another route and trust the stock carb more for reliability anyway. I couldnt even lean drop the rig with my city racer on there, then I put on stock carb and I could actually get it to move in RPM when adjusting mix screw....
All the best, and dont rack your brain too hard on one given rabbit hole. Ive done and it often leads nowhere. In person or over the phone help is king.
Dan
I was full desmog and deep into an engine rebuild and was lazy and didn’t want to go with the stock carb. I went down the path of the City Racer carb and was convinced I had an intake/vacuum leak—that’s how badly it ran. I got my stock one rebuilt, capped everything off except vac advance and fuel cut, and the rig was way happier. Granted, I didn’t have the time or patience to fiddle with the City Racer carb—which may be doable—but throwing that thing in a box, never to be seen again, helped my mental space with the build.
I spoke with OTRAMM on his podcast the other day (Episode 3 if you wanna watch). From my understanding, to get the stock carb honed in (which mine isn’t QUITE there yet), it takes some feel to get it right. There are lots of screws and nuances. I’m at elevation in Idaho at 5,800 feet, and I have the thing advanced like 15 degrees mechanical (don’t do this at sea level). I’m running high-altitude jets. Once you get the stock carb right, they run absolutely awesome, even with full desmog.
OTRAMM also told me in a PM that his experience with City Racer carbs is that they dump fuel into the intake and cause it to stumble—so he had to put on a different carb. I had this experience as well. This is what he said:
"I've only dealt with one City Racer carb. It was a complete pile of garbage that puked fuel and wouldn't run. Put a rebuilt OE carb on, and the truck ran great. Soapy water won't find vac leaks since there's only vacuum after the throttle blades. I'd try your original carb or see if you can borrow a known good one before you do too much testing."
I borrowed a stock carb from my neighbor and had the biggest smile on my face when I finally had a drivable rig.
Note that TOP SPEED shouldn’t be a measure of carb performance or tune. Even UNTUNED with my neighbor’s carb, I could get to 60-65 mph. In my experience, the faster I go, the more hiccups with the carb get concealed. Advancing timing and honing it gave me higher mph, but just because the City Racer carb seemingly operates well in certain conditions doesn’t mean there isn’t a fundamental problem with it.
Have you checked to make sure your vac advance diaphragm is working (holding vacuum)?
I’m STILL honing in my carb, but I feel like I’m driving a tractor-race car after getting mine fully rebuilt, tinkering with jetting/timing, adjusting valves, etc.—especially with the headers, btw...
Don’t expect to watch the lean drop video and have a perfectly tuned rig. I’m a living example—and there’s a ton that is not in the FSM that a trained tech or hot rodder would know and be able to feel out, but guys like you and I wouldn’t know.
You may be able to get city racer working, but I went another route and trust the stock carb more for reliability anyway. I couldnt even lean drop the rig with my city racer on there, then I put on stock carb and I could actually get it to move in RPM when adjusting mix screw....
All the best, and dont rack your brain too hard on one given rabbit hole. Ive done and it often leads nowhere. In person or over the phone help is king.
Dan
- Thread starter
- #52
Hey Dan,
Thanks for the insight! I read your story last month, what an adventure man. I appreciated it and truly respect your endeavor.
I had take time away from the cruiser, traveling for work and the flu or whatever illness is going around Oregon.
I finally had some time this evening and adjusted the valves, pained the timing marks, and added the vacuum advance I got from @4Cruisers, thanks man! The valves were all tight and out of spec. When replacing the vacuum advance the advance springs/rotor was pretty rust and barely moved. After cleaning everything up the advance was moving freely. I’m sure that’s been an issue with the truck. Buttoned everything up and the engine fired right up and didn’t die. Normally I have to run it on choke for a mins for it to idle and not die. The timing is set at 7* BTDC. I did not adjust timing this evening, ran out of time. At idle in the shop, it still stumbles in the low rpm’s. I was hoping everything I did made a difference, nope.
I truly think it’s the city racer carb.
My plan is to send my OG carb in and have it rebuilt. As I have said before, it ran way better with the worn out original carb. I did get a new toyota fuel pump and spacer and will replace that tomorrow. What are folks advancing their timing to, desmogged at 265ft? I have headers as well not sure if that makes a difference…
- Thread starter
- #53
I connected my original 2 wire up, I did the disconnect test while running and the truck died. So it should be working correctly. What’s interesting is, every now and then, it will run flawless for a few hours….Sorry - saw that you mentioned you were at 20-22 for vacuum.
I don’t have the CR carb but some folks have had issues with the fuel cut/decel solenoid/vacuum switch system on installation of the Fuji carb (which CruiserTrash asked about).
Fuji 21100-61012 DeSmog Carb vs OEM FJ60 Carb - Fuel Cut Solenoid (ICS) Analysis/Questions
This system has been discussed before, but I want to delve deeper with this thread. Fair warning, it goes a bit out in the weeds... I'm about to install a CityRacer/Fuji desmog carb (CR/Fuji) on my desmogged (still have Decel Fuel Cut, PCV, Distr Vent, & EVAP) '87 FJ60. Could keep the HIC/HAI...
Not sure if that would be full explanation though for what you have. I don’t know why some folks seem to have issues and others don’t - at least from my limited knowledge.
- Thread starter
- #54
I decided to drive it before I changed the fuel pump. Seems like there’s less power…did adjusting the valves do that, they were very tight? And how can I tell if the vacuum advance is actually opening up? It seems like I need to run the rpm’s higher in between shifts. The carb is still a piece of s***…if let it warm up for 15 minutes, it does run a bit better…thoughts?
Check PCV valve. Does it rattle when shaken? It should. Clogged PCV can cause truck to die when off throttle or after a few minutes of idling.
- Thread starter
- #56
The PCV does have a rattle, interestingly enough, the other end of the hose is just hanging in the engine bay. Should it be hooked up somewhere else in a desmog?
I did replace the fuel pump, looks like someone had used RTV on the block side. I also replaced the slave cylinder and flexible hose. Boy was that a pain in the ass, especially trying to get the flexible hose off and connected to the hardline..
Hopefully take it for a test drive tomorrow and let everybody know.
I did replace the fuel pump, looks like someone had used RTV on the block side. I also replaced the slave cylinder and flexible hose. Boy was that a pain in the ass, especially trying to get the flexible hose off and connected to the hardline..
Hopefully take it for a test drive tomorrow and let everybody know.
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