Builds Maytag. 1967 LPB, a daily driven survivor (1 Viewer)

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

My on-off switch will be this push-pull knob. I'll paint the knob black..(or perhaps scavenge the knob of my inoperable hand throttle)

Two-PositionOff/On Push/Pull Switch. This is going to an always on circuit so I need a way to turn it off .

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EEV4XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NPNMBbJ3YX7MC

I have two holes in my dash not occupied by switches. One was the hand throttle. The other has a rubber plug in it. One will house the volume control, the other the power switch.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Tinkering around with a bit of carb tuning today as it felt like the mixture is leaning out too much on acceleration.

It's a Rochester B carb (GM unit). Pretty basic, idle screw, mixture screw, manual choke.

Adjusted the idle and mixture until I was no longer getting the shuddering on acceleration, but it seems like my idle is inconsistent.

Sometimes it will idle for a while at one speed, then seems to kick up to a higher speed randomly, almost like a model with a fan clutch would do... However this doesn't have one of those... So what's going on. Any ideas?

I can't find any obvious vacuum leaks anywhere, haven't messed with the timing, but it sounds okay. Plugs all look good, gaps in spec. Haven't checked points.

Anyone familiar with this model carb? I hate to spend money rebuilding it, as I had wanted to hold out and look for an OEM single barrel carb to put back on. Thoughts on what I should do?

Anyone have a line on an early OEM carb? Marks Offroad didn't have any.

 

[middlecalf]

That wire good for 100amps?

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

That wire good for 100amps?

Yup. 10ga and it's a very short run.

Went by this chart. Should be more than enough.im never going to be running close to 100A on this block anyway.

If I decide to push that I'll go with some stouter wire of course.

 

[cruiserjunktion]

I pulled my spare wheel because I'm getting new tires all around and it's actually grey. I have a Jan '66 build date.

Ed had said the wheels on 21699 had been grey since he bought the truck back in ‘65.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Ed had said the wheels on 21699 had been grey since he bought the truck back in ‘65.

Crazy... and I thought Ferrari was inconsistent with their build spec timelines and model year documentation.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Good news! All of my clutch hydraulics have been replaced, and my clutch pedal feels like a clutch pedal again instead of a soggy sponge!

Also, I got my door refresh kit in. So i'll be redoing my doors before the weather turns here. Maybe i'll be at least a little bit weatherproof?



However, i'm still having some ignition issues. Been working on adjusting the carb, however nothing seems consistent. Sometimes it will start up and idle fine, but then sputter when I hit the gas. Sometimes its rough to get it to idle until I get on the gas pretty hard then it will idle and accelerate just fine.

Checked my points and rotor. Those look brand new. Have messed around with settings on the carb and seem to have found something that works for the moment, but who knows if that will last.

Also, I'm running hot. My guess there is the thermostat. I cleaned up my contacts on my temp sending unit and it works, but my temp is going almost all the way to H. The radiator doesn't get that hot to the touch (warm but i can hold my hand on there for like 10 seconds). I'm guessing the thermostat isn't opening? Have one on the way tomorrow, but does that sound about right?

Anyone have any ideas with my tuning issues?

 

[wngrog]

The only door gaskets that I’ve ever used that really seal them up are the OEM Toyota gaskets. They are super thick.

Pulling the thermostat out would answer that question.

I’m sure the system could use a good flush. Always pop off the plugs at the top of the head and the block drain and see if your fluids are running out of those holes. If not you have the real fun job of digging the crud out so it will. Otherwise you will run hot.

The way the Toyota system is designed it’s bad about air pockets. Use a “yellow” coolant funnel for air free filling or make sure the front is raised up with drive on ramps at the least.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

The only door gaskets that I’ve ever used that really seal them up are the OEM Toyota gaskets. They are super thick.

Pulling the thermostat out would answer that question.

I’m sure the system could use a good flush. Always pop off the plugs at the top of the head and the block drain and see if your fluids are running out of those holes. If not you have the real fun job of digging the crud out so it will. Otherwise you will run hot.

The way the Toyota system is designed it’s bad about air pockets. Use a “yellow” coolant funnel for air free filling or make sure the front is raised up with drive on ramps at the least.

I'm less worried about the weatherstripping and more excited about the window felts which currently dont exist in my doors... haha!


To verify.. the head plug is where the temp sending unit connects right?

and the block drain is the one beside the oil pressure sending unit?

 

[wngrog]

I'm less worried about the weatherstripping and more excited about the window felts which currently dont exist in my doors... haha!


To verify.. the head plug is where the temp sending unit connects right?

and the block drain is the one beside the oil pressure sending unit?

Yes to both!

The weatherstrip around the door was a game changer for me. I had 1/2” gap at the top

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Yes to both!

The weatherstrip around the door was a game changer for me. I had 1/2” gap at the top

Any specifics for flushing this cooling system?

 

[wngrog]

I’m sure there is a way others approve but I run a bottle of Prestone in it then flush with a garden hose until water runs out of all the right spots.

Drain all the water as best able.

Fill 50/50 Prestone green.

The yellow funnel is the ticket though.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

OK well.. Thermostat installed today, but I don't know if that took care of my cooling issues, because now I seem to be having a fuel delivery issue and can't get the truck started.

It started with some sputtering on acceleration, then dying and not being able to maintain idle when coming to a stop.

When I was able to get it started it needed full throttle to even get started and needed to be revved up a bit before i could really think about letting it idle.

Pulled the valve cover to check that I didn't have a stuck valve (and also because it needed a new gasket anyway). I did briefly have it running with the valve cover off. Valves are all working fine, clearances are also good. Idle was very slow and inconsistent, and any application of throttle would cause backfiring through the carb if it didn't just kill the engine entirely.

Got some video of that.



Since then I haven't been able to get it started. Thoughts are carb jet blocked somewhere, fuel pump, or fuel filter. Tomorrow I'm going to test the pump by pulling off the line from the carb and turning the engine over to see if it's giving me anything. Beyond that, possibly tearing down the carb, cleaning and rebuilding it?

Anyone else have any thoughts here? Something I'm missing here?

 

[Rustic76]

Throw up a classified post for an Aisin SD-40 carb. Someone’s gotta have one they’d sell. I couldn’t tell you the last time mine was rebuilt, it’s so basic and runs like a charm.

Also, welcome to the beauty of FJ45 ownership. I’m just over the bridge in Washington. I work over in Portland and I used to drool over your truck when the PO had it parked in his driveway years ago.

Here is my 45

 

[whitey45]

She sure looks good, should not have let that one go!

 

[a.greenspan]

Since then I haven't been able to get it started. , fuel pump, or fuel filter.
Anyone else have any thoughts here? Something I'm missing here?

Had some fuel issues too when I bought my can.
Dirt in the fuel tank is often a problem when this cans sleep & sleep & sleep & sleep and.....
Change the fuel filter & the pump first.... did it & run the can some weeks & than I put another new fuel filter in ... the dirt was gone.

Do you have a noise when you open your tank cap ?
Fuel tank venting ! ...... bought a new cap & my Red 45 can raced again ....

... like a champ.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Had some fuel issues too when I bought my can.
Dirt in the fuel tank is often a problem when this cans sleep & sleep & sleep & sleep and.....
Change the fuel filter & the pump first.... did it & run the can some weeks & than I put another new fuel filter in ... the dirt was gone.

Do you have a noise when you open your tank cap ?
Fuel tank venting ! ...... bought a new cap & my Red 45 can raced again ....
... like a champ.

Yeah I've ordered all of those parts, and a rebuild kit for the carb as I had planned to try and clean it really well anyway.

No noise from the gas tank when openinf the cap. I think it vents fine .

 

[xtremeVA]

If you haven’t flushed the cooling system yet, I would recommend you check out Thermocure as a cleaner. It’s made by the same company that makes Evaporust... which is a great product for de-rusting bolts. Basically it will get rid of the rust inside the system. You can find it on Amazon. It’s definitely worth the extra step.

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Well my problem is not the fuel pump. Popped the line off the carb and turned the starter over a few times. The carb is getting plenty of fuel...

Blocked jet? Other ignition issue?

 

[DailyDrive_FJ45]

Pulled the carb and I think I answered my own question. Look at that crud in the fuel hook up!

Bowl has some crud in it too.

Floats seem to be in good shape though! They weren't gas-logged.

Gotta wait on my rebuild kit to show up now but looks like I found my problem.

To be safe I'm also replacing the fuel pump and filter (I'll have a working spare now), and I will pull the lines off and try and blow them out too .