Builds Project Lockjaw-1973 Fj40 on Tons (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter bluehawk
- Start date
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Mike Shull
Let’s go…
I see that. They closed for a bit to restructure but they reopened. I purchased some cowl parts from them after they reopened but I ended up returning them. Perhaps they closed again?
Why don’t you want the CCOT or SOR parts?
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
I hear that. Have you looked at Topnault parts? I wasn’t a fan of their tub, but the lower door skins might be worth looking at?
Subterranean Nik
SILVER Star
Phenomenal progress Ryan! You're getting there! 
EWheeler
GOLD Star
A common manufacturer of these components closed shop during Covid, CNC Brakes. There may be parts available here ant there, but I would personally go with someone like Wilwood, EMPI, or Jamar.
Turning Brakes - Kartek Off-Road
Turning Brakes for offroad racing in the King of the Hammers, New Zealand Taupo 1000, Dakar Rally, Tatts Finke Desert Race, Score International Baja 500 or Baja 1000, NORRA 500, NORRA Mexican 1000, Mint 400, Vegas to Reno, Silk Way Rally, Crandon International, East African Safari Rally, Rallye...
If you're going through the work to install, and you have a selectable rear locker, I would do a brake cylinder for each rear wheel. If you do not have a selectable rear locker, then you will only be able to lock both calipers, as locking 1 gives you no advantage to just locking both. I have turning brakes in both my sand buggy and rock buggy, and they do work. 99.9% of the time, its just a novelty and not being in a competition setting I only use them because they are there. I have found they are a bit finicky and if you push the brake pedal before releasing the hand turning brake, it hydraulically locks the caliper that you were actuating with the hand brake. I've ruined 2 sets of pads/rotors on my sand car now due to this.
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bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
- Thread starter
- #630
Anyone ever use JT Outfitters wiring harness!
jtoutfitters.com
Complete Wiring Harness Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 Ford Bronco Truck IMC Scout II
With age your wiring just wears out. It becomes to brittle, and old to repair, much less depend on. The best way to get your rig going is a new 14-circuit factory upgrade harness. Our universal harness is adaptable by using many of your original connector plugs. We even include the plugs for...
jtoutfitters.com
Id suggest staying away from JTO entirely. They don't have a great reputation for products or service.
Others will chime in with better vendors.
Others will chime in with better vendors.
Mike Shull
Let’s go…
I got supplies from the Wiring Depot to lengthen my factory harness and to build new sections. The quality seems great and I am happy with the end result.
JTO 
IMO.
Check out the Kwik Wire products, just as nice or better than Painless at probably 1/2 the price. And 14 circuits frankly isn’t near enough when you’ve got additional electronics, fuel injection, lights, ARB compressors, etc that all need power. Think I got a 22 circuit for the 715
kwikwire.com
IMO.Check out the Kwik Wire products, just as nice or better than Painless at probably 1/2 the price. And 14 circuits frankly isn’t near enough when you’ve got additional electronics, fuel injection, lights, ARB compressors, etc that all need power. Think I got a 22 circuit for the 715
USA Made Auto Restoration Wiring | Kwik Wire | Electrify Your Ride
Kwik Wire | Electrify Your Ride
kwikwire.com
EWheeler
GOLD Star
I did this recently on one of my 40's. It was an impressive pile of wire and plugs that was removed and quite satisfying to get rid of all the unnecessary plugs, wires, and controllers. I went slow, thinking I wouldn't have to strip the entire harness of the factory sheathing, and it was a total waste of time as I ended up removing the entire length of the harness wrap. Just start removing the sheathing from one end and zip tie the branches as you get to them so you don't lose the "shape" of the harness and it will make much quicker work of it.
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bluehawk
Appalachia Cruisers
- Thread starter
- #636
So I'm toying with the idea of putting my rear coil overs on the inside of the frame. A piece of c-channel that ties the two towers together and mounting the coil overs to the c-channel. Kind of like Toyota trucks have them mounted. Maybe this would give me more flexibility?
EWheeler
GOLD Star
I've never "built" a coilovered truck, but you are going to have better stability and control with them outside of the frame. Dynamic forces act on the vehicle at the center of gravity, and the further away from that point you control those reaction to those forces, the smaller the force has to be to resist/control for stability. I think it is worth figuring out how to package them outside of the frame, even if you need to make frame modifications to do so.
