Very well done video. You have one of the best video opening splash animations out there also!
Project Hundy Build Thread - 2000 UZJ100 Land Cruiser (Deathstar) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter cruiseroutfit
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Sweet video!!
- Thread starter
- #103
Glad you enjoyed the video.
The ARB compressor has been used a fair amount for tire inflation duties, both on the race car as well as air-up on the 100 itself. The ARB medium (CKMA12) has a 2.2 cubic-feet/min flow rate @ 30psi and a 50% duty cycle so no problem airing up all 4 tires from flats to full. Full specs here:
http://store.arbusa.com/Assets/PDF/compressorTechnicalSpecifications.pdf
- Thread starter
- #104
Very nice video Kurt. Always like your creative angles my friend.
That was cool! Hopefully I can get there in 48 months!
- Thread starter
- #108
Very nice video Kurt. Always like your creative angles my friend.
Thanks!
Hey Kurt,
I meant to ask you about the comms. setup in Death Star.
You mentioned you've got a Kenwood Ham and a Cobra CB.
Do you mind providing a little more detail on your install, such as:
I meant to ask you about the comms. setup in Death Star.
You mentioned you've got a Kenwood Ham and a Cobra CB.
Do you mind providing a little more detail on your install, such as:
- Location - Where are each located? (I assume you used the Slee mic holder for the Cobra but what about the Kenwood?).
- Antenna - What antennas do you have up front? (IIRC, last time I was at your shop it looked like the Ham antenna is on the front DS and the CB on the front PS).
- Wiring - Are you running the Kenwood off the second battery?
- Thread starter
- #110
The Kenwood is a remote face unit, the control box is mounted to the rear drawers just behind the 2nd row seats. The control box is mounted to the dash using a RAM mount and PanaVise combination. The mic connection was added to the console, so when unplugged I have nothing more than a Cat5 jack exposed. There is an external speaker mounted on the ceiling just forward of the sunroof.
The CB module is mounted behind the dash and the mic wire comes on the bottom of the dash next to the factory 12V outlets. I don't actually have mic holders installed yet, partially because I don't know where I want to put them and also because I often just clip them to the Ram Mount and then they are easy to find. When not in use I simply toss both mics in the center console.
I'd have to take a look at it to remember which antenna is where, they are near identical MaxRad? units so I can easily switch them around if needed (and switch the feed lines at the radios too of course). There as no rhyme or reason why one is on a specific side. They both function fantastically. I've used the CB a little bit but the HAM gets used quite often and was used extensively during our Baja 1000 Race as primary comms between the race car and chase rigs. All of my accessories run off of the aux battery.
The few pics I have on this computer (out of town right now):
- Thread starter
- #111
Still bouncing around the supercharger install but I have another stack of parts I'm hoping to get started on soon. When I say stack it is a couple of items compared to build weekend 
paulbgardner
SILVER Star
Kenwood speaker is super slim and fits in the garage door opener area with a little bit of trimming. I use it for the HAM.
- Thread starter
- #113
That is a good fit. I'm really liking the MFJ setup I have, I can aim it towards the back and crank the volume when we are using it as a pit radio during races, tunnels the sound out for a nice loud system.
cboyd
GOLD Star
Glad you sent this. I use the same speaker and was hoping it fit there. I'm planning to widening the opening and make the whole door fabric covered...
- Thread starter
- #115
- Thread starter
- #116
So I'm having a bit of a aux. lighting quandary. The 100 Series currently has a set of IPF 900XS lights on the front bumper at standard headlight height, one spot and one driving, no complaints there they work really well. Obviously it has the stock headlights with upgraded low beam bulbs (still dismal but more on that fix soon). I picked up a 36" LED light bar from Iron Moose, we've used a handful of their lights on projects here locally and they have been fantastic, figured it was time for me to try one on the 100 and I had always envisioned having a nice flood mounted up high, i.e. above the windshield. So I've got the mounting figured out for the light bar to fit in the gap between the rack and the roof, no heartache there, my quandary is how to wire it.
My front IPF's are triggered by the OEM fog lamp switch, it is modified to allow them in high beam or low beam operation, but the headlights must be on. Pro is I have flexibility with high/low, con is I have to switch them off on the highway when passing but the switch is on the factory lights stalk so it hasn't been an issue. So how do I set up the light bar?
Options 1 would be to trigger with the same OE fog lamp switch. That way I either have all my aux. lights blasting or none. When I pass I simply flip the one switch off and it kills both lights? Is there a scenario I would want to use the IPF's but not the higher LED? I just can't envision one in my mind but it's late and I'm tired.
Option two is to install an OE switch in the blank. I have a Toyota switch here with the roof light icon, would be a clean install into the switch panel left of the steering column. Pro would be that I can independently control the LED separate of the IPF's, con is the passing scenario in which I'm now dealing with 3 switches in 2 locations. Boo.
Option 3 is a combo. I can make the LED switch on the dash triggered by the OE fog switch. So that I can turn on the IPF's and then the LED or just the IPF. In a pass scenario killing the IPF's kills the LED. Downside is the LED's can't be controlled separate but again I can think of less of a reason to be able to turn that light on separate of the headlights or IPF's.
Confusing enough? That is what is rolling through my head tonight. Any suggestions or experiences based on your setups?
My front IPF's are triggered by the OEM fog lamp switch, it is modified to allow them in high beam or low beam operation, but the headlights must be on. Pro is I have flexibility with high/low, con is I have to switch them off on the highway when passing but the switch is on the factory lights stalk so it hasn't been an issue. So how do I set up the light bar?
Options 1 would be to trigger with the same OE fog lamp switch. That way I either have all my aux. lights blasting or none. When I pass I simply flip the one switch off and it kills both lights? Is there a scenario I would want to use the IPF's but not the higher LED? I just can't envision one in my mind but it's late and I'm tired.
Option two is to install an OE switch in the blank. I have a Toyota switch here with the roof light icon, would be a clean install into the switch panel left of the steering column. Pro would be that I can independently control the LED separate of the IPF's, con is the passing scenario in which I'm now dealing with 3 switches in 2 locations. Boo.
Option 3 is a combo. I can make the LED switch on the dash triggered by the OE fog switch. So that I can turn on the IPF's and then the LED or just the IPF. In a pass scenario killing the IPF's kills the LED. Downside is the LED's can't be controlled separate but again I can think of less of a reason to be able to turn that light on separate of the headlights or IPF's.
Confusing enough? That is what is rolling through my head tonight. Any suggestions or experiences based on your setups?
elkaholic
Left turn ...freakin wipers!
There is a fourth option that I have used in past builds. You would use bot of the switches you described but in the wiring between the OE fog switch and the OE roof light switch, insert a toggle switch that is of the On/On variety. You would hook one side of this last switch to the power feed from the OE fog switch and the other side to a constant (or keyed) hot. Then this third switch is used to select the power source for the LED bar with the output side of this switch wired to the input side of the OE roof light switch.
In one position, the LED bar can be turned on only if the OE fog light switch is on and in essence the lights act the same as option one you described. With the third switch in the other position, the LED is controlled completely independently from the headlights and other lights.
Clear as mud, I am sure, but it is one more solution, albeit a slightly more complex one from a wiring perspective.
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
In one position, the LED bar can be turned on only if the OE fog light switch is on and in essence the lights act the same as option one you described. With the third switch in the other position, the LED is controlled completely independently from the headlights and other lights.
Clear as mud, I am sure, but it is one more solution, albeit a slightly more complex one from a wiring perspective.
Sent from my iPad using IH8MUD
cboyd
GOLD Star
Could the OE Switch function as this toggle? Wire it using a relay from the Stalk. If the toggle was in the on position, then it could all be controlled with the stalk. Only issue would be that you would lose independent control of the roof light.
cboyd
GOLD Star
Oops, maybe that's just Kurt's option 3.
Probably silly question but will your sunroof clear the light bar in both open options?
I had to adjust my roof rack for that.
I also noticed recently that if I open the sun roof about 4-5 inches only and crack a window, it brings a nice down draft on your head. Probably common knowledge but I just figured it out. Great for fall and spring wheeling when the air is much cooler in the desert.
I had to adjust my roof rack for that.
I also noticed recently that if I open the sun roof about 4-5 inches only and crack a window, it brings a nice down draft on your head. Probably common knowledge but I just figured it out. Great for fall and spring wheeling when the air is much cooler in the desert.
