Project Hundy Build Thread - 2000 UZJ100 Land Cruiser (Deathstar) (1 Viewer)

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the previous owner did a sweet time-lapse video when he did the main build. mine will be pretty mild from here out, just cleaning up age-related issues.
Did you paint these yourself? I have got some things that I need to sand and paint.
 
It has been a minute, over the winter I decided that I wanted to follow up with a couple of mod's that were on the back burner when I go the rig last year. I have spent the last few months looking for parts and pieces to minimize downtime for a rear locker and part-timing the truck.

I have been able to pick up a spare t-case so that I can rebuild it with a 3:1 low range and an underdrive gear set so I don't need to mess with the diff gears. I was also able to pick up a complete locking rear-end and all the wiring minus the switch.

With the help of Cruiser Outfitters, I got started on the part-time kit and have installed the ASIN hubs and have been putting around town in 2WD to make sure I like the feeling of it. so far the steering feels lighter and less feedback from the road. pretty stoked to get out and on some long drives to see how it feels at speed. hauling ass down the freeway with a loaded truck and AWD the road construction in Utah had me bouncing from line to line in my lane, I think this will change that feeling.

Anyway, I have just a couple of shots of the hubs installed to share, definitely like the turn dials! one thing to note about the relationship between the hub face and the rim, I am running wheel spacers up front so the hubs are set in more than a factory setup.

swapping hubs in was about 45 minutes each side with no special tools and is definitely a :banana:/2 job in my opinion. we will see what the transfer case yields when I get to that next month...

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Keep us posted. Very curious about both the part-time AND the under-drive gears.
 
Enter the Slee dual battery bracket (Slee Part# SOF1251), its 100% ready to bolt in and accept a standard full-size battery of your liking. Now to the batteries themselves, opinions here vary about as widely as tire selection. I've been running Optima's in my FJ40 for nearly 12 years, Odysseys in my Tacoma for over 5 years and a smattering of others in other rigs I've had. Given my ability to run a full size battery and my need for one standard and one reverse battery, I opted for the Optima Yellow Top in the auxiliary position and the Optima Red Top in the starter position.
Which size and part number did you go with for the red and yellow tops?
 
Which size and part number did you go with for the red and yellow tops?

It’s been seven years, I’ll have to see if I can dig up the specs on the batteries :D
 
It’s been seven years, I’ll have to see if I can dig up the specs on the batteries :D
I have them in the service log, I will give it a look when I get home, I think the yellow may be due to for replacement, it is not holding a charge anymore.
 
so for the last 2-3 months, my fuel gauge has not been working and I have been avoiding working on it. I have also had problem with the tank not venting properly and if I have a full tank it actually backs up out the evap system and leaks from a hose upfront. these are the next couple of tasks to tackle before I get to the fun part of installing the part-time spool, 3:1, and underdrive gears...

a little more detail on the fuel gauge issue, I am currently running a 16-gallon secondary tank that gravity feeds the main tank so the gauge would read full for 150-200 miles before it would start to go down. early on it started to read half full after filling 35 gallons and it slowly continued to degrade. Per the FSM I am going to pull the sending unit and give it a test looking for a resistance change rather than voltage since I do not have a power supply that I can hook it up to. we will see where this leads tonight...
 
Hey! Love your build. I'm modeling mine after it... albeit with a few deductions due to the kind of use it'll see and my slightly tight budget. What did you think of the ARB rails and side steps? Are the steps robust enough to take the weight of the car should they need to be used as true sliders? Have you had them in those circumstances? I saw a few photos from the rubicon where they were on a 80 series and just completely bent while sliding a high drivers side rock. I don't know that I'll be doing a ton of that kind of driving but I would like them to be able to act as sliders should I need. The side rails are a huge advantage in my opinion but only really able to work with the arb steps/bumper. I have the front bumper on already. Any sage advice would be much appreciated.
 
Hey! Love your build. I'm modeling mine after it... albeit with a few deductions due to the kind of use it'll see and my slightly tight budget. What did you think of the ARB rails and side steps? Are the steps robust enough to take the weight of the car should they need to be used as true sliders? Have you had them in those circumstances? I saw a few photos from the rubicon where they were on a 80 series and just completely bent while sliding a high drivers side rock. I don't know that I'll be doing a ton of that kind of driving but I would like them to be able to act as sliders should I need. The side rails are a huge advantage in my opinion but only really able to work with the arb steps/bumper. I have the front bumper on already. Any sage advice would be much appreciated.
the ARB rails and steps are not sliders, these ones have been bent and straightened out more than once. that being said the is no damage to the rockers...
 
for the last couple of months I have slowly been piecing together a part time kit with Cruiser Outfitters. for those that are not in the know about part timing 100 series, the options until now require you to replace the factory CV's to the non-us spec shaft ends that have different interface geometry. Cruiser Outfitters developed some new hub parts that I was able to be the test bed for of which i have put close to 10k miles on. this past week we got down to business on the T-case end and did a complete T-case build. since this being done on a earlier 100 series we had to use a 80 series input shaft and replace the idler gear as well. we had a pretty awesome pile of gears/center diffs and bearings after installing all the new goodies. this turned out to be a good day with some good friends!

next step is to get it in the vehicle and break everything in before Cruise Moab.

the kits were spot on with everything we needed minus the some snap rings and pre-load shims that need to be measured for during the case assembly. we overhauled 2 cases with 4 guys in about 8 hours that doesn't include the time to pull or reinstall the cases to the trucks.

*Cruiser Outfitters can verify what years need the 80 series input shaft and modified Idler gear.*

Parts we used:

Rebuild kit - Part# TC9807
Sumo 3.1:1 low range gears Part# TCG900731
10% under drive gear Part# TCG9007UDHR
part time kit Part# TC100PTKITIFS
input shaft Part# TCG3621160030
Idler Gear Part# TCG3622160121M

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I am so tempted to do the part time conversion, let us know what your impressions are after some miles.
well, I have put about 10k on the truck with just the hubs and I like the 2WD, it has taken a minute to remember that I need to get out and turn in the hubs like on my 40, but that doesn't bother me unless it is muddy, rainy or snowy, but that is the nature of the beast and I am ok with it.
I like the piece of mind that if I blow my front diff I can drive out with just unlocking the hubs and unlocking the center diff. I like the reduced wear and tear on the front end, I am due for a reboot on my CV's.
Also once the t-case is in I will be able to crank up the torsion bars a little and level out my truck with out getting increased torque steer which will be nice as well.

as with anything that is part time you will need to remember that it is now a RWD vehicle and drive it as such, a little more cautious in bad weather and a lot more doughnuts!

part timing a 100 series you still keep ABS so that is good.

for me the list of Pro's out weigh the Con's and basically a no-brainier for how I use and drive.
 
yesterday I was able to take a half day off work and got to spend some time in the shop with an 80 series and my 100. I was able to help swap out a 3rd member in the 80 so we could make room for the 100. once it was in Olly and I were able to pull out the original transfer case and pop in the the one we built a few weeks ago at Cruiser Outfitters with the 3.1:1 Sumo Low range Gears and the 10% underdrive gear. the swap was pretty straight forward and other than a couple of stubborn bolts that pulled out a few threads in the transmission adapter that we needed to retap it went pretty smooth. It took us about 3.5 hours of work on our backs to get everything out swapped back in and cleaned up. the t-case rebuild was on two cases at the same time and was 4 people deep for 8 hours, both cases were completely rebuilt and got 3.1:1 and the underdrive gears. I only got a couple of pictures at the beginning since we were on a bit of a schedule crunch.

I have put about 50 miles on it and can say that there is a small increase in gear noise from the case but that is to be expected and the 3.1:1 is low!
so for some math now.

factory:
Tire Size: 275/70R16 (31.16 inches)
Diff gears: 4.30:1
low range 4wd: 2.488:1
Crawl Ratio: 10.6984

Current Setup:
Tire Size: 295/75R16 (33.4 inches)
Diff gears: 4.30:1 (becomes 4.73:1 with the 10% under drive)
T-case 10% UD: 1.1:1
low range 4wd: 3.1:1
Crawl Ratio: 14.663

final Crawl ratio increased: 37.05% (Gearing only)
Tire size % difference: 7.19% (Reduction or over driven)
corrected Crawl for tire size: 13.7:1 (28.1% increase)

After the math with the increase in tire size and the 10% under drive I am under driven by ~3% now rather than ~7% over driven in high range prior to the t-case work. hopefully I did my math correctly!

Huge shout out to Cruiser Outfitters for the great kit, skills, knowledge base, and clean shop floor!

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Right on, I’m excited to drive it!
it is pretty awesome, I took a longer lunch and headed up to the "B" and it pulled awesome up 4th north, didn't kick down to a lower gear. once I was up in the dirt I was able to mess around in 2WD, 2WD-low, 4WD-high and 4WD-low. pretty sweet! it acts just like having a twin stick setup. the 3.1:1 is awesome, I actually had to give it some gas on the downhill.

the high/low shifter is a little stiff but other than that it is great.
 

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