Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (6 Viewers)

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I don't know if it is that simple, I just don't do much welding. Do you mean cut the interior flange flush with the exterior flange? If so, I think I could do that. I was thinking that the entirety of the old flange must be removed from the inside of the downpipe.
hmmm, maybe there are two options... I am confident you need the pipe to extend past the bolt flange, so...
Option 1: clean up the pipe extending past the flange and try welding it back up and grinding to shape it to fit the gasket (this option depends on welding ability and condition of the existing pipe. TIG would be ideal, of course, but MIG could be done.
Option 2: Cut the pipe below the bolt flange; weld a new flange to a length of pipe with the proper stick out; bolt the new flange stub to the exhaust manifold; trim the existing pipe to the proper length to fit with the new stub; fit it up; tack weld old to new; remove newly welded assembly and finish weld; reinstall.

I like option 2. as a more solid solution

For your searching pleasure: 2" exhaust pipe connector
 
Is that raised lip not just the pipe sticking through the flange? What about using a transition pipe like this, weld on the new flange with 1/4-3/8 inch sticking through and just cut the factory down pipe so it slips in to the lower section. Weld it all up.

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Edit: Dang!! Stump beat me to it! Guess I should have refreshed the page before posting. :bang:
 
Is that raised lip not just the pipe sticking through the flange? What about using a transition pipe like this, weld on the new flange with 1/4-3/8 inch sticking through and just cut the factory down pipe so it slips in to the lower section. Weld it all up.

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Edit: Dang!! Stump beat me to it! Guess I should have refreshed the page before posting. :bang:
You were much more succinct.
 
Why not just use a thicker remflex style gasket?


So, dug Into the taco engine. I should have looked at a schematic first to remember that the water pump is tb driven, not accessory belt driven.
That seized pulley was not an impeller grenading, just a regular pulley bearing grenading.
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Anyone know what that bearing is serviceable? A new timing cover assembly is available, but I'd rather not spend $130 if I dont need to do so.
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Saw that the timing belt is showing wear too, so may as well do a full job since I'm in there already.
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Installed my new Trollhole bikini top. My windshield frame had 7 pre-existing holes in the top which I used to install M6 riv nuts, then drilled holes in the bikini top rail to match, and used 10mm bolts to bolt it down.

Installed footman loops in the back of the tub for anchor points to tie down the rear straps.

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Why Remflex? I’m not familiar with them? Are they an improvement over OEM? I have a 3B ATX turbo I plan to install and hadn’t considered using a different gasket till you mentioned it:

 
Order a Remflex and be good forever.
Is there a trick to keeping the bolts from backing out since you can't over compress the gasket?

I didn't have stellar success with Remflex but that might been the installer's fault...
 
remflex is the only way to go imo. been using them as long as I can remember. I have always gone a little tighter than factory spec. but then again I never took my junk to a machine shop.
 
5 tire rotation hoping to figure out if the noise I'm hearing around 15mph and 30-35mph that seems rotational was tire related or something else.. in the process of checking everything else for clearance and any loose bolts I saw my front spacer has folded over the coil on one side..
The noise isn't compression related so it can't be that

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5 tire rotation hoping to figure out if the noise I'm hearing around 15mph and 30-35mph that seems rotational was tire related or something else.. in the process of checking everything else for clearance and any loose bolts I saw my front spacer has folded over the coil on one side..
The noise isn't compression related so it can't be that

View attachment 2456645
I wouldn't rule anything out just yet...
 
Based on a recommendation from @GA Architect I bought a speedo correction box from Commercial Speedometer Service is Sacramento, CA. I provided them with 3 different speedo-to-actual speed readings and they built me a custom synchro box. Apparently there's 4 gears inside the box so they can pretty much customize any ratio. Pretty good deal for $120 to have your speedometer reading properly and mileage recording accurately on the odometer.

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5 tire rotation hoping to figure out if the noise I'm hearing around 15mph and 30-35mph that seems rotational was tire related or something else.. in the process of checking everything else for clearance and any loose bolts I saw my front spacer has folded over the coil on one side..
The noise isn't compression related so it can't be that

View attachment 2456645

That's the isolator, not the spacer. The spacer mounts above.
 
Based on a recommendation from @GA Architect I bought a speedo correction box from Commercial Speedometer Service is Sacramento, CA. I provided them with 3 different speedo-to-actual speed readings and they built me a custom synchro box. Apparently there's 4 gears inside the box so they can pretty much customize any ratio. Pretty good deal for $120 to have your speedometer reading properly and mileage recording accurately on the odometer.

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It's a 33 year old truck... How accurate do you need? Not to mention that is has probably been "off" for about 1/2 its life? Curious what your deviation was before installing this gizmo.
Just busting your stones.
 

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