Finally mounted up one wheel. Learned a lot. I know If I need wheels widened I’m going to send them off. A lot of work. Found a few leaks in the welds. Kinda expected that but very hard to find holes the size of hair. Here is a teaser pic
Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Stumpalama
- Start date
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Devilmans Hand
TLCA #19517
- Joined
- Aug 4, 2008
- Threads
- 140
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- 3,478
- Location
- Commonwealth of N.VA
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- www.capitallandcruiserclub.org
About a mile from home the belts on the 1st gen Tacoma 3.4l started squeeling bad, then blew off all together. Red battery light popped on and power steering went. I got home soon there after.
Checked under the hood and the belts that drive fan, alternator, and power steering were missing. Melted rubber coated the water pump/fan double pulley.
Took a couple pics, but kinda hard to see. The fan pulley closest to the timing cover is definitely crooked and jammed into the cover a little bit. You can see the melted bits of belt still on there. Would a water pump failure cause the shaft and therefore pulley to become off center and locked into place if pulled under tension by the belts? This happened about 11pm so I'll investigate Thursday evening if I have time.
That's a decent overhead view perpendicular to the other pulleys. You can see just how far the fan/pump pulleys are.
Now, from what I can tell I have to take off the timing belt in order to change the water pump. Before I order the kit to do a full tb water pump job I just want to double check that there isn't anything else I should double check and could cause my issue.
This time though I'm gonna bribe one of my guys to replace everything, since it's likely my fault that the 4runner engine got crunchy when I assume the TB jumped a tooth or ten.
Checked under the hood and the belts that drive fan, alternator, and power steering were missing. Melted rubber coated the water pump/fan double pulley.
Took a couple pics, but kinda hard to see. The fan pulley closest to the timing cover is definitely crooked and jammed into the cover a little bit. You can see the melted bits of belt still on there. Would a water pump failure cause the shaft and therefore pulley to become off center and locked into place if pulled under tension by the belts? This happened about 11pm so I'll investigate Thursday evening if I have time.
That's a decent overhead view perpendicular to the other pulleys. You can see just how far the fan/pump pulleys are.
Now, from what I can tell I have to take off the timing belt in order to change the water pump. Before I order the kit to do a full tb water pump job I just want to double check that there isn't anything else I should double check and could cause my issue.
This time though I'm gonna bribe one of my guys to replace everything, since it's likely my fault that the 4runner engine got crunchy when I assume the TB jumped a tooth or ten.
I got it mounted on my toolbox...
I've been slowly learning the ins and outs of CNC. Here is a nameplate that I created in Fusion360, milled on a Tormach 1100M vertical CNC mill, painted, and then polished. It turned out pretty much exactly how I wanted it to. It's about 1.5" x 7.5" for reference. It's pretty amazing to be able to draw something up and then hold the finished aluminum piece in your hand!
iptman
SILVER Star
Swapped out my leaking steering box for one that's not. I was able to get the old one out and new one in with only removing the rear 2 bolts of the fender and pulling it away and up a bit. So much smoother and easier to steer now.
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
- Thread starter
- #3,586
Who did that work?! i have some ideas I need to execute...
Lim's Auto Upholstery - they have a Tysons and Chantilly location. TXT me for his vcard, he does correspond by text so it's easy to work with them.
Lim"s is great. Had 'em replace the convertible top on the vette a few years back and they did a great job! Highly recommend.
I replaced an exhaust gasket on Jack's 40. It was the donut gasket between the manifold and the downpipe and it was the most toasted gasket I have ever seen,
After removing it, I could not get the new one on top of the downpipe. I couldn't tell if there was material left from the old gasket or that the pipe had deteriorated. I had to remove the downpipe and use a hammer to lightly tap around the ring until the new gasket would fit.
Unfortunately, after I bolted it back together it sill leaked, though not as badly as before. Any advice on what I can do to get this to stop leaking?
After removing it, I could not get the new one on top of the downpipe. I couldn't tell if there was material left from the old gasket or that the pipe had deteriorated. I had to remove the downpipe and use a hammer to lightly tap around the ring until the new gasket would fit.
Unfortunately, after I bolted it back together it sill leaked, though not as badly as before. Any advice on what I can do to get this to stop leaking?
Blue77FJ40
SILVER Star
Your top edge looks rusted away. There should be enough room for the gasket and the 1/2 bagel shaped metal cover that compresses the gasket when torqued. I had an idiot muffler guy try to install the 1/2 bagel shaped metal cover upside down and bent the flange. It's leaked since then. I really need another stock down tube...
I did get it to fit the way it is supposed to. The gasket sat around the flange snugly and and nested into the manifold.
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
It's not the greatest option but muffler cement helps a lot with small flange leaks. Coat both sides of the gasket before install and let it harden before firing it up. If the flange is toast I have new ones in stainless. I could probably get some mild steel ones cut as well.
Ah, I didn't realize those flanges could be replaced. That seems like the proper way to do it.
OTRAMM
Supporting Vendor
They're welded in. I have new flanges since we use them when we build exhausts for them. Not an easy replacement.
Doesn't sound easy. So, would you use a dremel or something similar to remove the old flange?
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
- Thread starter
- #3,596
If it were me doing it at home, I would cut the pipe below the driver floorboard and repair the flange on the bench, then reinstall with a sleeve clamp.
There is a junction beneath the floorboard, so I have already had it out to get the gasket on the old flange. I just don't know if I can get the old flange out.
Stumpalama
Forum Junkie
- Thread starter
- #3,598
Not sure I understand what you mean by "out". Isn't it as simple as pull the section, cut the flange off, clean the pipe up and weld on a neck flange, using some 90* magnets to ensure it's square?
I don't know if it is that simple, I just don't do much welding. Do you mean cut the interior flange flush with the exterior flange? If so, I think I could do that. I was thinking that the entirety of the old flange must be removed from the inside of the downpipe.
