Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (1 Viewer)

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Need some basic info. Let's do some voltage checks. Keep everything connected, no need to disconnect anything. Turn off all loads (headlights, blowers, etc.). Take voltage measurements at the battery posts not the clamps.

Step A: What is the battery voltage with the engine off? Should be about 12.5 +/-

Step B: What is the battery voltage with the engine running? After starting the engine let it run for a few minutes so the battery can recharge from the starting current drain before measuring the voltage. Should be about 14 +/-

Step C: What is the output voltage of the alternator? Measure positive at the output terminal and negative at the alternator housing. Typical is about 14.2 volts.

Step D: Measure the voltage between the battery negative post and the alternator housing. This will detect bad grounds between the alternator and battery. Should be a fraction of a volt.

Step E: Measure the voltage between the alternator positive output and the battery positive post. This will detect bad wiring between the battery and alternator. Should be a fraction of a volt.

Step F: If you have an external voltage regulator, measure the voltage between the alternator housing and the regulator housing/ground. This will detect bad grounds between the alternator & regulator. Should be a fraction of a volt.

Step G: Measure the voltage between the regulator housing/ground and the battery negative post. This will detect bad grounds between the regulator & battery. Should be a fraction of a volt.

Let me know what you get and then we can move on to the next step.

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You are awesome. Sorry I didn't provide an update- I drove the car about 50 miles yesterday and never had any problems. After the first 15 I checked and engine voltage at idle no loads was about 13.6v. Wondering if the battery being low affected the readings when I first fired it up and saw it drop?
 
Jack is pretty happy with his top, courtesy of @OTRAMM
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Stopped to air up at a gas station. Hose was too short. I had my own chuck and an extension hose with couplers at each end but no way to connect to the chuck on the gas station’s hose. Had to use my little compressor which took forever.
So, from that experience, I made an adapter. Brass replacement schrader valve with the valve part removed, soldered into a pipe thread adapter (had to drill out the inside of the adapter a little bit), screwed the adapter into a FM air hose coupler. Done! Now I can go from gas station chuck to my hose to anything I have that needs air.

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Stopped to air up at a gas station. Hose was too short. I had my own chuck and an extension hose with couplers at each end but no way to connect to the chuck on the gas station’s hose. Had to use my little compressor which took forever.
So, from that experience, I made an adapter. Brass replacement schrader valve with the valve part removed, soldered into a pipe thread adapter (had to drill out the inside of the adapter a little bit), screwed the adapter into a FM air hose coupler. Done! Now I can go from gas station chuck to my hose to anything I have that needs air.

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took me a few seconds to figure out how that would work...
 
Interested in taking a look at mine? Was running slowwww now it runs not at all.

I’ve never seen one run “fast”
 
I always thought he windshield wipers on 40's were just a suggestion for the water/ mud to move off the windshield.
 
Electrically yes. Mechanically no.
I can help with the mechanical. I've done some exploratory and modification surgery to mine.
 
Interested in taking a look at mine? Was running slowwww now it runs not at all.
Sure. If you are driving it to the meeting next week we can do some triage in the parking lot.

This might help. These are the schematics for the various parts of the wiper circuit that are used for the different functions.

WIPER 1.webp
WIPER 2.webp
WIPER 3.webp
 
You are awesome. Sorry I didn't provide an update- I drove the car about 50 miles yesterday and never had any problems. After the first 15 I checked and engine voltage at idle no loads was about 13.6v. Wondering if the battery being low affected the readings when I first fired it up and saw it drop?

I should start a thread for this vehicle.

So 600 miles after $$$$$$'s were spent on sway bars,new tires, some other odds ends.... and a week after I get the alternator squared away, i'm pretty sure the transmission is kaput.

Was on my way to work in the evening and Lexus started to make loud ticking/flapping noise, thought maybe rusted exhaust. Pulled over, no holes that I could see. Car wouldn't go over 20 and it fought hard to get there, like foot to the floor not moving. Had it towed. Engine runs fine as I idled for almost 2 hours waiting for a tow with a/c and radio on.

It never ends...


Plus side is a coworker said he'd give me a spare wheel for the 4runner, that'll save me $30 or whatever.
Really tempted to gather my sheckles and get a motor for the 4Runner and go for broke (literally- well i'm already broke but more broke?). Ideally I want to do the HGs, VCGs, TBelt and plugs while it's out.
Figure at a minimum doing the above i'm about $1,200 away from getting it on the road- motor, gaskets/tune up, used tires.
 
I was wondering if it was something exhaust related. The car would go in reverse fine, but over the past few months here and there it would shift hard after first starting up and i know this era of ES300's had trans problems so I figurd it was the trans.

It is at the shop now however I will pass the word along. Hopefully they are honest so we can make the recommendation to check the cat and resolve it. Mentioned trans problems on call to them before tow so ideally they won't take that and run. Stupid mistake.
 
If you've ever wondered what would happen if you accidentally knock your gears into reverse:oops: (have no idea how the gear shift moved when it is not supposed to) while going full speed on the beltway, Lance from IPOR could give you the exact details. He put my new transmission in my 80. After being so glad my family and I didn't die and calling a nearby mechanic who said he wouldn't touch my truck because it was too old, Lance was a calming voice, asked if we were safe, as he told me not to worry. (My husband could not come to our aid as he is deployed for a year, so the reassurance from Lance was absolutely much needed and appreciated although I don't think he is aware how important it was to me.) Thanks to Lance and Jack from IPOR for getting my truck on the road again (I don't know their names on mud.) Now I am working on the truck to put in a new Denso AC compressor, Denso condenser, Denso evaporator, expansion valve (on the way home AC Compressor broke). Doing lots of reading and research on mud hoping to do it properly.
 
Is it easy/obvious where to bleed coolant from on 1gen 4runner? Cousin is fixing up his rig and called me asking if I knew
Appreciate any help guys
 

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