Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (4 Viewers)

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ETCruiser said:
Ah, good to know....is he still making them then? I looked into a while back, but was under the impression that they were no longer available. I've been looking at options to lighten up my rear end a little bit & for easier tailgate access, and this one looks like the best on the market for engineering and safety. Since I have the LRA extra tank, I can only hang the spare on the back or with something like yours.

BTW, your slider refurb looks great too!

Edit...just took a look at the Bellfab site, and I see that they are available again....hmmmmmm.....;)
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ya i recommend it for sure, i have no current plans on putting bumpers on this truck (the 3FE is slow enough as it is) so inside was the way to go, next on the list is a bunch of maintenance items and i do want to do a hidden winch mount.

im very happy with how the sliders came out the pitting is still very noticeable but there isn't anything i can do about that. It just makes them look textured lol
 
Not sure if you've seen my winch mount yet, but could work for you too....from GGM. Bolts to the bottom of the frame horns and is very solid. That said, I was looking for a solution that would work with my current ARB non winch bumper, and this fit the bill for me, not sure what you may come up with...





And decided to ditch the hook and go with the Yankum setup...



Here's GGM's thread in the vendor section with more pics of mine and what he had to cut on an OEM bumper to fit...

forum.ih8mud.com

Bolt on 80 Series Winch Plate

Finally got around to cutting up the front bumper. It actually turned out nice and was really easy. The bumper is sitting on the jack stands so it isn't perfectly straight in the pictures. But everything clears nicely. The last picture is what was cut off. It stays pretty hidden while retaining...
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
 
had the dreaded cruiser lean after a new OME lift. Went with matched 2” springs per ARB’s rec and the rec of many others. It was low on the driver side. it wasn’t much higher than my stock spring and may have been straight up defective.

ARB sent me a new 3” spring and new ubolts and I finally got it installed. Nice and level with some room to settle and still be level.

Before:
A7D646EA-CCBF-4612-9CC6-DD7CC470B833.jpeg


After:
8CC85459-4106-466A-AE9F-79572131A83D.jpeg
 
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Got some stuff out today…… Radiator, fan and clutch, belts, various other stuff. Put the truck in 5th and in 4WD and the crank bolt broke loose really nicely. No issues so far. Tomorrow morning I’ll get all the accessories and brackets out of the way and possible pull the head.
ACCF14D2-CFB5-451C-9005-1E8E22121607.jpeg
 
TRDdrew said:
Big thanks to @Stumpalama and Chappy ( idk what his MUD name is) but Chappy ended up donating these first gen SLEE sliders to the 80 build. They needed some work they where very rusty and actually had rusted through in a few spots. Modified them to work with the early 91-92 cruisers, repaired them and had them blasted. Got some motivation and installed them yesterday

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Those cleaned up NICELY
 
Grandpa mobile got some Enkeis. Figured go down a size in rims and larger tires cause can't buy stock size.
PXL_20230121_204632704.MP.jpg

Had 2 lug nuts that were mangled...
PXL_20230121_180259025.MP.jpg


PXL_20230121_180125398.MP.jpg

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Explorer4Hire said:
Ok…. Got the almost everything off, chamber and throttle body, most hoses and sensors, compressor and alternator, PS pump out of the way. Whatever day I work on it next I’ll pull the head.

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Why are you pulling the head to do the timing chain? I thought just pull the valve cover to access the top bolts to timing cover? I have not done one in years but do not remember pulling the head?????
 
matzell said:
Why are you pulling the head to do the timing chain? I thought just pull the valve cover to access the top bolts to timing cover? I have not done one in years but do not remember pulling the head?????
Click to expand...
You can. Roger over at 4crawler has a good writeup on doing it that way. I just wanted to do it the long way and replace the head gasket while I was at it. I’m pretty much following the FSM. It’s a hair over 200K so why not put a fresh OEM head gasket on. Also, even though I’m using FIPG for the corners etc…. I just felt the more durable repair would be to pull head and drop the pan. That way I get a pretty fool proof seal on everything. @OTRAMM was also a jiminey cricket telling me to just replace the head gasket so I could be more sure of staying leak proof.
 
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