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I think you will be amazed at how good your truck will look after working it over. Laquer thinner works well amd wont do much to the factory paint. My favorite so far is Goof Off. It takes of spray paint awesome and does pretty much nothing to the factory paint. Use a green scotch brite or Bounty towels. They are just abrasive enough (wood fiber) to scrub and they don't fall apart plus super absorbent. If you can find the Goof Off in a spray it it is easier.Im working on a 74 now that has great patina but also has some previous repair issues from the previous owner. Everything that appears red is some sort of primer to cover some of the bondo. They went buckwild and got a lot of it in spots that didnt need it. Any advice on removing it but not the factory blue underneath? Id be happy with just getting the red off and letting the metal do its rust thing.
My plan is to use Nolen's CLR method to remove all the oxidation from the paint and hopefully that will remove some of the red. I did a few test spots first and the CLR really brightens it up. Next is to use the rust converter once it comes in on the frame/undercarriage, but i dont plan on using it on the outer body. Its just too far gone to try and convert. Ill probably top it all off with the BLO as recommended in the first post.
Any clue where to get color matched spray paint to match the light blue? I may just have to cover some of it up to try and get it a cohesive color (plus the rust patina)
Thanks in advance.
Here is Lucille in all her glory.
The 40+ year aging process on the truck paint pretty much keeps it from softening with lacquer thinner or goof offIve used Goof Off in the past to remove the adhesive behind badges and had it eat through the clear coat on my Tundra (rookie mistake). Obviously i dont have that problem here so ill give it a shot. Whats the worse that can happen? I make it look worse? lol
Sorta off topic, when did Toyota move to a base/clear coat setup?
With the 80 series
A potential local buyer came by today that is better at paint correction (turd polishing) than anyone I know so I was pretty much done with it until he decides if he wants it.
Then @Dustin Messina wanted a demonstration so I knocked out a door and part of the hood just to show the process.
Door was the same process as the fender. Check out this difference
View attachment 2028865
The hood had so much dirt in the paint I took it out first with a light CLR scrub. Light only to clean it but careful not to swirl the paint with the Scotchbrite
Clean but dull
View attachment 2028866
Next I polished that section with the Griots polish and orbital and the Cygnus White popped right out.
View attachment 2028867
Finally, I oiled up the rusted metal areas and grill with some Fluid Film. I’m not even going to use Boiled Linseed on this truck. I think Fluid Film can replace it completely.
View attachment 2028869
10-4!For the frame you can skip the Converter and just use Fluid Film. It will soak in. Let it stay onthick.
I only use rust Converter on parts that I plan on painting. If not, it gets Fluid film