Power steering pump replacement (1 Viewer)

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musthave

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I purchased a brand-new OEM power steering pump. It took a couple of hours to install and I just finished it up. Put in the power steering fluid and started it up.

Now I have no power steering at all.

Any suggestions?
 
Did you replace the gear from the old pump to the new one? Is the pump winding when you move the steering wheel from side to side?
 
Whole new pump, came with gear. No winding sound.
 
According to the FSM, the bleeding process is begun by adding fluid and, with the front tires off the ground, turn the steering wheel lock to lock several times before starting the engine. And then service the fluid again if needed before starting her up.
I followed the FSM to the letter 18 months ago when I installed a new pump and the process went well.
 
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May I ask how price of new compares to Gates rebuild kit at $20?
 
New OEM was $240
 
How did you prime the pump?

Best/fastest way I used was to re-install just the return line, then start filling the reservoir until fluid started to come out the top of the pump (banjo fitting). Once that happens, install banjo bolt. Then you can go ahead and bleed the system (turning wheels back and forth while keeping reservoir topped off)
 
So I got power steering back after bleeding it and doing the FSM step by step. Now, I have power steering but I have an awful tick/knock sound.
 
Did the new pump come with the drive gear already installed (probably not)? The pump drive gear has to be installed in a prescribed way or it will not engage the drive gear in the engine correctly, which causes a clicking ticking noise.
 
Thanks WAynne. No. I installed the drive gear. From what I could tell it really only goes on one way. You put the woodruff in, put the gear on, torque. It sounds like I am missing something though???
 
How did you hold the gear during the install? Mine was damaged from being clamped in a vise by the PO and made a loud clicking noise. Make sure the gear is fully seated on the shaft. Also clamp the gear with something like a vise lined with wood, as to avoid damaging the teeth.
 
I clamped it in a huge place but I protected the gear with two pieces of thick rubber and then a block of wood. I don't think I damaged the gear.
 
The gear was seated after the nut went on tightly. In tight of course the gear was up on the shaft higher than it should be. After torquing it appeared correct.
 
Of course to make matters worse I also now have a power steering fluid leak somewhere. I think I went from bad to worse
 
Where is it leaking from? I found after i installed a new PS pump that it was still leaking underneath where the pipe connects to the pump and has an o-ring.
 
Thanks WAynne. No. I installed the drive gear. From what I could tell it really only goes on one way. You put the woodruff in, put the gear on, torque. It sounds like I am missing something though???

For some reason i thought I recalled pressing on the gear and then torquing the nut. Maybe not. Either way the depth of that gear engagement is crucial. Even an undamaged gear can make noise

The gear was seated after the nut went on tightly. In tight of course the gear was up on the shaft higher than it should be. After torquing it appeared correct.

May have to put a ruler on it vs an eyeball. Have seen one chatter that appeared fine but was too far in/out. Do you have the old unit to measure from to compare?
 
I'm looking at buying a 97 FZJ80 that will need a PS pump replacement immediately. I'm reading a lot about how the gear must be seated on the shaft at the correct location or you'll get the tick. I'm concerned because the truck I'm looking at already has the ticking PS gear - does anyone have any tips on how to determine the correct position for the gear on the shaft if it's already on there incorrectly?
 

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